Framing opinion needed

[FordTruckWench]

I'm not sure if the best way to frame it out. Suggestions?

The drawing specifies a maximum of 16" stud spacing. On the drawing, it looks like the pattern is wandering back and forth. Instead, you should make sure there is a stud at 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, and so on all the way across the wall. If you need to place two studs close together to get back on pattern, do it! If you don't do this, you'll have trouble with the sheathing/siding.

 

[nadogail]

I have nothing to add to this thread, I appreciate the opportunity to have read it and add to my store of knowledge.

 

[Skooterj]

Here is how I would build that wall by myself. I would frame it to your plan, because that is how you want it and the building department approved it, except I would add one more jack stud under each end of your garage door headers and make sure the studs really are at 16" OC. I would lay out and nail everything together except for the garage door headers. I would have the other 3 walls already erected, the wall with the doors would be the final wall. Without the headers, the wall would not be very heavy. I would then stand the wall up. Now, for that, you really need about 4 guys. If I couldn't find 3 friends or relatives to come help for a few hours, I would find a couple of day laborers and give them $100 for a day of labor. Anyway, stand the wall up without the headers, connect it to the other walls, then lift the headers into place.

Or hire a tractor, forklift or crane with operator, frame it with headers and fully sheathed, and have them stand it up while you run around and nail and bolt it down. You can probably get a crane out there for the day for $500 or less.

If you have all your walls framed and everything else ready and can find or hire a couple of helpers, one well planned day with the crane could stand up all your walls and place all your trusses.

 

[nmk_61802]

I am surprised by what looks like a single Jack at each of the larger openings. I believe IBC would require a min of 2 for bearing on openings that large.

 

[Skooterj]

I am surprised by what looks like a single Jack at each of the larger openings. I believe IBC would require a min of 2 for bearing on openings that large.

Yeah, no way I would frame it with just one jack stud under a 9 foot beam. Even on the gable end.

 

[Toolfool]

Yeah, no way I would frame it with just one jack stud under a 9 foot beam. Even on the gable end.

OP states in the first post that he knows another jack stud is needed.

 

[Innovate1]

The basic idea of portal framing as I see it is to extend the opening headers so that the header and paneling next to the doors form L shaped sections that resist racking (wall falling over sideways). With large doors taking up a large percentage of the wall the sheeting on the walls that normally resist racking are missing from much of the wall. There are standards for height to width of the remaining sections. Went through this a few years back. The sheeting has extra nails to the header and studs for additional strength. You need full length studs between the doors to keep the wall from bowing out and collapsing - someone posted a drawing of 1 between each door but I would have at least two. I also added hold down brackets for holding the studs to the foundation on each side of the between door sections. Had to drill for anchor bolts after the framing was in place but that was not that difficult. Used something like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-St...ge-Wood-to-Wood-Galvanized-Holdown/1002739996

Here's a local guide on portal framing. They put the header at the top of the wall which I think is to minimize the issue with bowing. Portal framing allows much narrower sections between doors. Looks like they have increased strapping and other aspects since I looked at it a couple years ago. St. Louis is a bit over the top on their requirements (IMHO) but shows what sort of things are done for portal framing.

https://stlouiscountymo.gov/st-loui...s/pw-residential-guides/basic-bracing-method/

 

[CraigStu]

Maybe 10 yrs ago I helped a friend stand up his garage walls. The back and one side wall had the ground falling away so that added maybe 4ft of height when working on the outside. He was afraid he would not be able to do the outside osb himself so he built a 16ft section and screwed on the osb while it was on the floor. We managed to stand it up but just barely for a couple 60s yr old guys. So the next section was 12ft wide. You end up using a few extra 2x4s that way but that is no big deal in the overall budget.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I always thought a garage door opening required 2 king studs on each side. If that is approved, then I'm incorrect.

How it is built depends a lot on how many workers you have an what type of equipment. If you have 6 or more workers and 4 wall jacks, frame a sheet it on the ground and stand it up. You will need the extra wall jacks for that length. That looks like a Gable end wall. You are going to need extra vertical temporary studs that run up several feet past the wall/peak joint.

If it is a 2 man crew, frame and sheath in manageable sections. Make sure the sheathing overlaps the joints. Double top plate is required. I would run a continuous bottom plate and cut it out later. I would also raise the garage door headers so that they touch the top plate, unless this causes a problem withe door size or opener mounting.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

Welcome fellow AZ garage guy! I am up off Carefree Highway near Cave Creek.

I know it well. I lived in New River for two years before moving to Glendale.