Framing Question: Attaching NLB wall to joists above

[Angelfire]

Hiya folks,
I'm adding a partition wall to my garage to separate the woodworking and metal/car side. The wall will be 2x4 construction and lands right on a joist above that runs parallel. This will only give me 1.5" to nail the top plate into the 2x4 bottom chord of the joist. I was looking to add more wood up there to get a better connection to the top plate. Two options come to my mind. One, sister a nailer the full length of the joist thereby giving a total nailing width of 3" which would match the top plate of the wall. Or two, I could run short 2x4 pieces between this joist and the next one over at 16" OC and nail the top plate into them. Is there a preferred methodology (or code enforced) to achieve this? I'll try to attach a few pics with my oh so poor edits to show what I'm asking. I thank you in advance for any advice.
Cheers.

edit: apparently I can't upload photos unless they are housed on website somewhere. I don't have that facility in place. Attaching them appears to have worked. The first photo shows the sistered nailer to the joist above the wall. The top plate of the wall will be flush with the right side of the joist. Or, the second photo shows how I could run 2x4's between the two joists at 16" OC and nail into those. Thanks for your insights.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Either method will work but I prefer the short cross pieces at 16"centres.
Will stiffen the wall a bit better.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Maybe just do both for wall strength. Hanging drywall and finding the cross nailer's can be tough for diyer's. Nail the wall to the truss. Then, nail a 2 x 4 flat down on top of the wall plate, sticking out 1.5 in. so the drywall will have a good nailer. ...

Then, nail your cross pieces in and then nail down through them in to the top of the drywall "nailer". Keep all nails down in to the wall close to the top of the studs. Helps keep the electrician from hitting the nails when they bore for wiring. Sturdy and purty wall , and no searching for nailers at the wall /ceiling junction later. JMO though

 

[jetnow1]

From the photos shown there is wiring in already, use whichever will disrupt the wiring the
least. I would just fasten the wall to the truss, then nail a flat 2x4 to either side to stiffen
it and provide nailers for drywall.

 

[Angelfire]

Thanks folks for the inputs. I should have clarified that basic wiring is in but I will be adding lots more across the whole shop once the wall is up so I'll be the "electrician"....hehe. That single run of Romex will need to come loose and pulled back a ways anyway so not an issue...I think there's enough slack to reattach it above the nailers and run over to the switch it currently serves Twojeeps for reminding me to think about the drywall attachment there. Thought about on the other side of the wall but hadn't really looked at it on this side. After I posted, I shot a laser and discovered this joist is bowed about 1/2"+ in the center. Not sure if tying it to the next joist over will pull it back particularly given the hurricane ties at each end but I'm hopeful.

So you all have given me more to think about so thank you. I want the wall to be sturdy as I'll be putting shelves on each side of it.
Cheers

 

[dutchgray]

1/2" bow should come out easy, just shove it where it needs to go and fix it to something solid.

 

[Angelfire]

1/2" bow should come out easy, just shove it where it needs to go and fix it to something solid.

Thanks, I found 3 of them were bowed anywhere from 1/2" to about 3/4". I was able to straighten them all and added a brace on top to keep them there. Wasn't hard at all. Thanks much! Had I not already tried, I'd have taken your words as inspiration to do so.
Cheers.

 

[rayra]

Sistering will do the job just fine. But since it isn't a bearing or structural wall, just a partition wall, it's pretty much overkill. Just attach the top plate of your new wall to the joist as is.

 

[Angelfire]

I realize just landing half the top plate on the joist would probably be enough. That being said, I do intend to load the wall down pretty good on both sides with shelves and I have a 6-0 double door in the middle of it so am looking to beef it up a bit. For the cost of a few extra 2x4's, it's probably worth doing now vs wishing I had down the road. Appreciate the advice.
Cheers.

 

[Zeke]

Sistering will do the job just fine. But since it isn't a bearing or structural wall, just a partition wall, it's pretty much overkill. Just attach the top plate of your new wall to the joist as is.

^^^This.

 

[csp]

You'll get more strength out of the wall by adding shear panels (plywood/OSB) than adding more places to attach it to the existing structure.