framing question, can I put a door next to a wall?
- Thread starter jgorm
- Start date
Since you're building INSIDE existing steel building, your wood walls are just cosmetic and you can do whatever the heck you want !! 
I'd have the door open outwards so not to lose space within the framed in section. However, it's really your call on what looks good and works for you. Good luck.
I'd have the door open outwards so not to lose space within the framed in section. However, it's really your call on what looks good and works for you. Good luck.
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
The only problem I see is the installing the door casing [trim] on the inside corner.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
I agree with what others have said, if it's not structural, do as you wish. You don't always have to ask permission to alter your private property, contrary to what we are told, dare to question authority.
RivennHewn
Well-known member
I usually have a min. of 3 studs from an adjacent wall.
This gives you the room for casing, and clearance for the door knob.
This gives you the room for casing, and clearance for the door knob.
dirttracker18
Well-known member
I agree.
I also question why you are building your walls that way? The bottom plate should be laying flat not upright and be sure to use a barrier between it and the concrete to avoid wicking.
FordTruckWench
Well-known member
FYI, you need an extra 2x4 in the far left corner (2nd picture) of the wall that's already built. Without it, you won't have anything to nail the wallboard or whatever it is that you use to sheath the interior of the office.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
Can't figure out what you are seeing?
The piece of bottom plate is on edge so he can nail the studs on.
There is even a stud at the end..
little d
Well-known member
As others have said, yes you can but no you dont want to, it's a PIA to trim out. If your trying to save space with the swing of the door, ya might look into "pocket doors", no loss of swing space,
D
D
Fyrme
Well-known member
I thought this ^ was the whole reason doors were always framed off the wall 3". Unless it is a load wall, there really is no reason for a header beam.
On a side note, is that redwood 2x6's? I've never seen NEW pine or fir lumber that dark.
On a side note, is that redwood 2x6's? I've never seen NEW pine or fir lumber that dark.
HoosierMark
Well-known member
You know you can tell the difference between experience and rookies. I cannot count how many times I did things like put a door in a corner and then it was a PITA to frame it and put the trim on. Experience is the best teacher many times. OP listen to what these guys are telling you. It may not matter to you right now about trim or finish but down the road when plans change you will be glad you followed their comments. The pros have reasons they do little things like the space from the corner.
FordTruckWench
Well-known member
That's the new non-arsenic pressure treated lumber.
41ratrod
Well-known member
The 2x4 on edge is not attach to the wall it is setting there he is building
another wall on the floor. After nailing it together he will stand it up.
Just look a little closer you see what I am talking about.
another wall on the floor. After nailing it together he will stand it up.
Just look a little closer you see what I am talking about.
APEowner
Well-known member
As I recall you're planning on putting a second floor on top of this structure. If that's the case then you need a fully framed corner.
As others have pointed out trimming out a door that's up tight against the corner is problematic.
As FordTruckWrench pointed out you also need to consider what the wall sheathing is going to attach to on the ends of the walls.
As others have pointed out trimming out a door that's up tight against the corner is problematic.
As FordTruckWrench pointed out you also need to consider what the wall sheathing is going to attach to on the ends of the walls.
Dead on as are the other answers. You'll need to head that door out correctly which require at least two studs. You could pocket the header into the adjacent wall to save 1-1/2", but like has been said, you'll have a ***** of a time trimming it out. Or you could reverse the swing (outwards).
Btw guys, he's using the mez as a wood working area. So the entire assembly is load bearing.
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alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
If the walls are loadbearing I would look at sistering in some full length studs on the wall where it's been cut for the cable. A 2x4 attached to the original stud in an L shape should work.
vintagespeed1956
Well-known member
do a 3 stud corner and you'll have something to attach casing to, if you're going to put anything above you'll need a bigger header.
wssix99
Well-known member
How about using a barn door? You don't have to deal with all the framing/casing issues and they fit really well in places where you want to have the door all the way up against a perpendicular wall.
The only downside is that the hardware is more expensive than a traditional door, but you could gain a lot of functionality.
The only downside is that the hardware is more expensive than a traditional door, but you could gain a lot of functionality.
Thanks for all the tips. Doing the trim on the inside was something I didn't think about. I will add 2 more studs to space the door out 3". The door wall will not be the main load bearing wall. The wall in the back, and the front wall (just the footer is there now) will carry all of the joists. Check out this picture with some crappy MS paint annotations.
