Framing question for garage door track mounting

[ben5243]

I've done a lot of reading on how to finish drywall around a garage door and the solution seems to be to put mounting boards around the door opening. All the instructions I can find recommend 2x6s. Then it appears most people drywall to the edge of those boards.

Here is what I mean

My current door is mounted directly to the studs. I have 2 studs on each side to support the header plus a 2x6 jamb. Basically exactly this

So when I install new doors next week, when I put 2x6 or 2x4 flat against the studs, flush with the jamb and mount the tracks to that, won't there be a big gap to fill for the stop trim? I can't find any detail drawings where the 2x mounting points are shown like the diagrams above.

Maybe someone can help me understand?

Also, what do you fasten the 2x mounting rails to the studs with? Just framing nails?

 

[Hunduh]

Use 3/8 lag screws with washers to mount the garage rails to the studs

 

[cdestuck]

What you need to do is remove your existing jamb boards and replace them with ones that are 1 1/2" wider.

 

[ben5243]

Use 3/8 lag screws with washers to mount the garage rails to the studs

Thanks, about how many would you use for 8ft vertical boards and a 9ft horizontal? And how long? 3" screws?

 

[ben5243]

What you need to do is remove your existing jamb boards and replace them with ones that are 1 1/2" wider.

I have 2x6 side and top jambs already, that top detail view was just all I could find. My goal is to replace the door and drywall but I'm concerned about the large gap between the door and jamb that will be made by adding 1 1/2 mounting boards and move the door back.

Just wondering if anyone can explain how to do the stop molding and weatherseal. Do you mount it to the side of the mounting boards?

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

You will have to add wood or move your 2x6 pad out into the opening, eliminating the gap. You will see the edge of the 2x6 from the outside but the weather seal is 2" so that should cover the edge. Also plan on adding an extra stud on each side so you have something to attach the Sheetrock to. Just thinking out loud.

 

[cdestuck]

If you can live with your door opening being reduced by 1 1/2", you can still use 3/4" material for the sides and below the header. And the door seal will mount to this 3/4" material on all 3 sides. Take a look at a neighbors or friends doir.

 

[ben5243]

You will have to add wood or move your 2x6 pad out into the opening, eliminating the gap. You will see the edge of the 2x6 from the outside but the weather seal is 2" so that should cover the edge. Also plan on adding an extra stud on each side so you have something to attach the Sheetrock to. Just thinking out loud.

Okay thanks, this makes more sense.
I was for some reason thinking the 2x6 pads would only come to the last stud instead of flush with the side jamb.
I didn't realize the stop molding is 2" either, the stuff on there now is maybe 3/4"

I looked and if the side of the 2x6 pad is flush against the exterior face of the jamb, I shouldn't need to add a stud on the outer sides. I've got a king stud, 2 jack studs then the jamb.

Looks like this but with 2 doors and the header spans both so only jambs and 2 jack studs in the middle. For the center post I will have to add a stud for the drywall. It will just be like 3" sliver of drywall between the pads

As for using 3/4" jamb material, the finished opening would be too large for a standard 9ft wide door so I have to keep the 2x6 jambs.

 

[BoostedOne]

Your tracks will have brackets, that are likely designed to be mounted to the 2x6 jamb and put the door in the right place. Also be sure to have the jamb go up higher than just the door opening, as well as have a pad in the center. If you have a torsion spring, the tracks will extend atleast a foot above the opening and need a solid spot to mount to. The center pad is what is resisting the spring, so it needs to be on the same plane as your track brackets, and it also needs to be mounted to something very solid. Its under tremendous strain and you dont want it ripping out.

 

[n20junkie]

I plywooded and painted around my opening and the door mounted right to the plywood. No ugly 2x6's around the door.

 

[ben5243]

Figured I'd update this with how it worked out. The local door installer that I bought my doors from suggested 1x4 MDF or trim board instead of framing lumber. He said you'll see it so it might as well look nice. It really just can't be mounted to drywall because over the years it will crush the drywall and then can loosen up.

Here's what it looked like before (after removing the old horizontal tracks and opener and hanging ceiling drywall)

The side jambs were terribly twisted at the bottom so I replaced those

So that's what I ended up doing. I primed and sealed everything on both sides then painted them once they were up.

Door with vertical tracks

Then drywall up to the boards

I paid someone to mud and tape the drywall in the entire garage because I'm not very good at it and short on time. Then I primed, caulked the edges between drywall and boards, and painted, then got the horizontal tracks, torsion spring and jackshaft opener installed after paint

I still have to do the other side. I did screw up one part because the tension monitor for the jackshaft opener needs to be mounted flush to the surface the tracks are mounted to otherwise the roller can't travel enough to trip the switch if tension is ever lost. So I had to cut out one section of drywall, and add a section of 1x6 for the tension monitor. So now I need to caulk and paint that board

Thanks for everyone's suggestions and helping me understand how this works so I could plan this effectively. I'm super happy with how it is coming along.

 

[vekster]

nice job

 

[35k0]

Bringing up an old post here, but do the side boards that the rails attach to and run from the floor to the ceiling have to be one piece or can I use two 2x6 boards?

I have 10' sidewalls and a 18'x9' door.

I have a ton of 8' 2x6 but my wall height is 10'. So I would want to use an 8' and a 2' 2x6 to make the full height. Will that work?

Thanks!

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Bringing up an old post here, but do the side boards that the rails attach to and run from the floor to the ceiling have to be one piece or can I use two 2x6 boards?

I have 10' sidewalls and a 18'x9' door.

I have a ton of 8' 2x6 but my wall height is 10'. So I would want to use an 8' and a 2' 2x6 to make the full height. Will that work?

Thanks!

if properly secured there is no reason it can not be multiple boards

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Yes use two boards but I would suggest you make the splice near the floor, not the ceiling. The splice will disappear with all the other hardware there.

 

[The Cobbler]

your "side boards" do not have to go floor to ceiling . they just need to go about a foot higher than your door to support the tracks and drums etc .
but, it doesn't hurt to go to ceiling, and as mentioned, make the splice at the bottom

 

[35k0]

Thanks guys!

 

[farmerisland]

Figured I'd update this with how it worked out. The local door installer that I bought my doors from suggested 1x4 MDF or trim board instead of framing lumber. He said you'll see it so it might as well look nice. It really just can't be mounted to drywall because over the years it will crush the drywall and then can loosen up.

Here's what it looked like before (after removing the old horizontal tracks and opener and hanging ceiling drywall)


The side jambs were terribly twisted at the bottom so I replaced those


So that's what I ended up doing. I primed and sealed everything on both sides then painted them once they were up.


Door with vertical tracks


Then drywall up to the boards


I paid someone to mud and tape the drywall in the entire garage because I'm not very good at it and short on time. Then I primed, caulked the edges between drywall and boards, and painted, then got the horizontal tracks, torsion spring and jackshaft opener installed after paint




I still have to do the other side. I did screw up one part because the tension monitor for the jackshaft opener needs to be mounted flush to the surface the tracks are mounted to otherwise the roller can't travel enough to trip the switch if tension is ever lost. So I had to cut out one section of drywall, and add a section of 1x6 for the tension monitor. So now I need to caulk and paint that board


Thanks for everyone's suggestions and helping me understand how this works so I could plan this effectively. I'm super happy with how it is coming along.

Hi OP, what has been your experience with your MDF doorway cladding over the past 7 years? Any moisture damage or issues?

I know I'm diving into a pretty old post at this point, but your info and photos on how you did your setup (and this whole thread in general) is the best I've found on the forum for info on framing the doorway for hardware mounting. I have followed the suggestions in this thread and if the attaching goes alright, here is a pic of what I've done with 1x6 MDF on a 3 stall with 10x8 doors. I plan to **** drywall up tight and paint the boards the same wall color before door install for that clean look mentioned.

Now that I've got this installed, I started to worry that perhaps the MDF is going to be a bad material right along the doorway for moisture and swelling, or am I overthinking that? It's probably the doorway inside edge of mdf, especially near the bottom, that's going to be an issue if anything.