Framing roof outlook / overhangs?

[bren5270]

Hey all, I'm working on trying to frame my garage roof and Ive hit a bit of a dilemma;

-I already have the roof trusses including gable ends up now
-I need to frame a 12" overhang
-The gable trusses are NOT reduced height nor notched

How do I frame an overhang that will still be sufficiently wind resistant ( I am worried about a ladder style being ripped off in a hurricane)?

... I know the specs on the trusses say do not modify, but I am tossing around the idea of notching the gables in order to make a supported outlook, but would that require some kind of engineering certificate?

 

[GMCGarage]

Hey all, I'm working on trying to frame my garage roof and Ive hit a bit of a dilemma;

-I already have the roof trusses including gable ends up now
-I need to frame a 12" overhang
-The gable trusses are NOT reduced height nor notched

How do I frame an overhang that will still be sufficiently wind resistant ( I am worried about a ladder style being ripped off in a hurricane)?

... I know the specs on the trusses say do not modify, but I am tossing around the idea of notching the gables in order to make a supported outlook, but would that require some kind of engineering certificate?

Your trusses, do what you want.

I would notch the extensions. If only 12", would not hurt them that much.

 

[bren5270]

Your trusses, do what you want.

If only the inspector agreed haha.

The truss labels say no modifications allowed... of course

 

[firebirdparts]

The gable end is typically not a truss. YMMV. "truss" does not mean "made by the truss company".

 

[Tejay]

Strap with 2x4 and overhang what you need ,then plywood . Considerable more cost but will get you where you want . Alternatively stick frame the gable lower or order two dropped trusses and replace what is existing

 

[Boilerhouse]

Contact the truss company and see what they say. If the overhang was planned, which it normally is, they should have supplied the proper gable trusses.

 

[Michigan Mike]

I know things have changed but when I was framing houses in the seventys and eightys we never framed for a one foot over hang. We hung the plywood out more than a foot snapped a line on the plywood and nailed the sub facia to the plywood. The plywood and the sub facia on the tails of the trusses carried the the gable sub facia just fine. I am living in one of the houses I helped frame in 1974 and I see no sag in the facia . If you are are framing more than a foot overhang then you do need to have more support.

 

[Michigan Mike]

Firebird parts is correct the gable end truss is not usually a [truss]. It has vertical framing on the stud layout. usually two foot on center. If your gable is framed that way you can cut a inch and a half deep by three and a half wide directly over the vertical framing in the gable truss. You loose no strength this way and it lets you lay a 2x4 flat ways from the first truss in from the gable truss past the gable truss to the over hang. If it was me I would still do it like we used to. Much simpler.

 

[wrenchguy]

I know things have changed but when I was framing houses in the seventys and eightys we never framed for a one foot over hang. We hung the plywood out more than a foot snapped a line on the plywood and nailed the sub facia to the plywood. The plywood and the sub facia on the tails of the trusses carried the the gable sub facia just fine. I am living in one of the houses I helped frame in 1974 and I see no sag in the facia . If you are are framing more than a foot overhang then you do need to have more support.

mostly this, but i put in blocking between the ends of the run and use 2x for subfasica. done correctly will work just fine.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Bren,
Another vote for Michigan Mike and wrenchguy methods for 12" o.h..
Built over 1300 accessory buildings in the 80's using these methods. No sags or tear offs ever. Did the same on my recent home rebuild and shop I'm building now.
What type and thickness sheathing is going on your roof? 19/32" ply is nice.

If you do a ladder rake and have roof deck plywood going back to the 3rd truss ,all well nailed, you have some strength. The lower edge of the inner ladder (or just blocks)will be well spiked through the sheathing and into the gable truss too.

 

[bren5270]

I live in a high wind zone area (near the coast in eastern NC) right on the water so we actually have to legitimately worry about hurricanes and wind damage. I think if I lived in any normal inland area Id do that method, but here I need a little more sturdiness.

Im going to talk to the inspector tomorrow morning and see if I am allowed to notch the end gables.

 

[shedfullatools]

Usually you can notch the gable ends just fine since the rafter has so much vertical support. We live in a very high wind and snow load area and the local "Contractors" all just nail on separately framed ladders. Usually if its more than a foot overhang or even sometimes that big are sagging after just one winter, properly notched with a fly rafter is the only way to go in my opinion

 

[6768rogues]

A ladder type is just fine for a foot of overhang if the roof sheathing spans over it. I built mine that way 25 years ago, we are in a 35 psf snow load zone, and it is still straight.

 

[Copymutt]

This would provide extra strength against wind, add a bit of architecture. Tied to a basic ladder overhang.
Jim

 

[Radix2]

All the strength is in the roof sheathing. If the gable truss is properly nailed to the sheathing and can't push in, then there is no way that the ladder can sag. Blocking back from the gable truss is a good way to increase the resistance to pushing in or rotating.

It is pure tension on the sheathing, 20-30 feet of 1/2 in material is massively strong in that direction.

If you want more strength, make the gable overhang thicker, 2x6 ladders will give a longer lever.

Understand how the loads are carried to determine how to reinforce.

If you are concerned with wind from under, fasten the ladders with screws, and directly to the gable truss, make sure your gable sheathing installed first and is under the ladder to reinforce the connections between the gable truss members.

 

[matt_i]

I built a 12" "ladder frame" overhang. I used a few nails to get started but ultimately everything is backed by a torx drive screw. The ladders are secured with RSS structural screws to the endwall truss.



In addition I framed the fascia portion so there are additional supports at the bottom, with a dude hanging off for a semi static test. The roof sheathing 8' dimension is cut down to basically 7' and 3' for the first piece but fully nailed across the intersection.

 

[bren5270]

Thanks for the responses guys, I called the inspector and he said the ladder method is the standard for around here. He said if I was to notch them he would want to see papers from the truss company stating it was acceptable. given that the trusses are 2x4 I am going to go ahead and avoid the notching and just do a well anchored ladder overhang (12")

 

[slackdaddy1]

A 12" ladder, screwed through the gable sheathing into the gable truss cord, then sheathed over top "Isn't going nowhere"!
I did 16" ladders on my house,, you could "jack the house off the foundation" from them