Framing Squaring Jig ?

[mattlago]

Hi everyone. Long time lurker.

I have some land in the middle of nowhere. No electricity, no water and no neighbors. I am planning on building a small cabin out there and plan to prefab most of it at home and then truck out to the land. Nothing fancy, just a 16 x 16 ish box. Later the plans are to build but this will do fine for now.

I plan to frame out some 4 x 8 walls in advance and then bolt together. Since I will have to make a few of them (plus flooring and roof) I thought it might be best to look into making a squaring jig for the studs. Maybe it is overkill to bother, but I am hoping it would save time and make it easier for the wife and I. Hoping to have less suprises at the land when I am short on tools. I have searched online but the way I am searching brings me to squaring jigs for pictures etc.

Anyone have any suggestions on this or where I can find this? Thanks in advance.

 

[brownbagg]

go look at framing table for automobiles, get an idea

 

[BlindViper]

Are you talking about building a 4'x8' panel ? your trying to keep this square ? if you are all you need is a tape measure.

 

[NitroPress]

Build a simple 3-4-5 triangle before you start. Use 2x4s and plenty of good screws to make a triangle EXACTLY 3 feet on one side, 4 feet on the other and 5 feet across the hypotenuse. Presto, giant framing square. You can fancy it up by using 1x6's to put lips on one or both square sides.

 

[bigdav160]

As long as the top and bottom plate are the same length a tape measure corner to corner can tell you if it is square.

Of course it doesn't mean it will be level at the building site.

 

[mattlago]

Sorry, I suppose I should have clarified. I know how to measure square. I will be doing this with my wife and while I am no contractor, she has less experience than I. I was looking for something to keep the stud square to the top and bottom plate and then the corners. I am probably over thinking this. Just trying to get exacting results with two people that dont do this for a living.

 

[ForceFed70]

Simple!

Use a 4x8 sheet of sheathing to keep everything square (and line it up in the 1st place).

 

[Muttly]

Simple!

Use a 4x8 sheet of sheathing to keep everything square (and line it up in the 1st place).

This, use the sheets to square the 4' long wall sections.

Think ahead on how you want the corners to lap.

Just make sure your floor is level and square and assembly will be fast and simple.

I would cut the studs short so the walls are less than 8' or use 9' sheets of plywood so the wall sheathing overlaps the rim joist to tie it all together good.

 

[csp]

Do your layout of the studs on the top and bottom plates at the same time with both plates butted up to each other. As long as you follow the layout on both and measure the corners to be square, the studs will also be square.

IMO, you're overthinking this. It isn't hard to pull a wall into square once it has been stood up, especially one as small as 4x8.

 

[2drx4]

I think the way you're planning to do it is way too much work and won't really save you any time... And will be kinda goofy. I'm not saying it can't be done, but there's a reason buildings aren't normally built like that.

Framing out a 16x16' structure is easy, especially if you're going with a standard wall height (8' or 10', I'd assume 8'). Since 8' lumber is a standard length. You won't have to cut much of anything providing you plan it all out. Draw the whole thing up on paper or in sketchup (I mean draw the actual framing) and you can even precut and label everything. A 16' long wall might be a little hard to stand up by yourself without wall jacks, but you can stand it up as two 8' long walls. Then just pull it square with bracing until you have all the walls standing and a ceiling or roof on it.

Otherwise you're going to be making lots of small pieces and sticking them together. Which is not as good of an idea structurally, or from a perspective of material use, or insulation space, or really much of anything.

 

[Sureshot]

How are you getting the material to the remote location? I would look to assembling the whole building at home then using a 8x16 trailer to get the pieces there. It seems like not much time to be saved with 4' sections. Maybe precut the studs,header pieces, floor joists. Maybe even layout the stud locations on the sill plates.

 

[Falcon67]

Sorry, I suppose I should have clarified. I know how to measure square. I will be doing this with my wife and while I am no contractor, she has less experience than I. I was looking for something to keep the stud square to the top and bottom plate and then the corners. I am probably over thinking this. Just trying to get exacting results with two people that dont do this for a living.

Build your wall section on a flat workspace, square it, tack on a couple of 2x4s to hold it square, then let in a 12' 1x4 at about a 45 degree angle. Build each section 8x8, they will be light and easy to handle. your assembly will go quick on the other end. I personally built and set 16' wall sections on my building, so 8x8 is easy.

Back is 16', side section is 12'. One guy.

 

[pattenp]

The wall will be squared up by putting on the sheathing. I think what he’s asking for is some type of a jig for keeping the studs square (not twisted) when being nailed to the bottom and top plates. If you lay out the suds and plates on a flat surface that normally keeps the stud faces and plate faces straight to each other. If I’m thinking right you could make up a jig to help the wife keep the studs straight while nailing.

 

[Falcon67]

To do that, you set the top and sole plates next to each other, mark the stud locations with a speed square, place the parts and nail to your lines. Jig not required. As for twisted, you best pick through the studs for the best ones and nail them up real quick - because they will. I used 121 studs and plenty just hook, twist, cup, etc. while waiting for install. that is the current state of "#2 stud grade" lumber. Several of my #2 grade 2x6 rafters looked like they were hacked out of the tree with an axe. Complete with bark.

 

[bczygan]

I've often thought what fun it would be to actually construct a cabin completely with hand tools and no power tools. There is a certain joy in hand sawing 2x4's and even OSB.
On the other hand, you could get a gas powered generator and run your saws and hand nail, or a gas powered compressor for your nail gun.

at the very least you could precut some of your materials and assemble them on site.

 

[ForceFed70]

I've often thought what fun it would be to actually construct a cabin completely with hand tools and no power tools.

If you can get your hands on it, watch "Alone in the wilderness".

http://www.dickproenneke.com/

It's a documentary about a guy named **** Proenneke. He moved to a remote area of Alaska in 1967 and build a cabin by hand. And I mean, he really roughed it. All he had was an axe, a 2-handled blade, and a hand-saw.

He even made his own hinges and bolt/lock for the door.

He filmed it all and kept a great journal. Later an associate took all for the raw footage along with the journal entries and created a documentary called Alone in the Wilderness.

It's a truely inspiring show. Really gets you thinking about how much we really need in life.

 

[nickleone]

I believe the original poster wants to build all week in his and her spare time and then transport the pannels to the job site.
Get a 4x8 sheet if you are planning 8 foot walls. Lay out your FIRST wall on 16 or 24 inch centers (2x4 or 2x6 studs). Square that wall. Then cut blocks to position the future studs and attach them to the sheet. Then nail the sheeting on top Remember to place the blocks so that you can accomodate windows and doors. Drill all the studs for electric wire runs before you nail together.
Remember that when you are going to put these pannels together you should allow for overlap of the OSB or plywood at each joint of the pannels.

Nick

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd build the most you can at home if you have no power at the work site. I would build no smaller than a 8' section if you only have a pick up to transport them. If you have a trailer available to you, I'd go for the 16' sections, maybe 12' depending the ability of your wife with the lifting.

Got a two car garage ? I'd preassemble it out home first to make sure everything lines up and fits your foundation.

Since you're building a cabin, now maybe the time to buy yourself a nice generator. I'd spend the extra cash and buy a nice quiet and reliable Honda unit.

 

[rodm1]

If you can get your hands on it, watch "Alone in the wilderness".

http://www.dickproenneke.com/

It's a documentary about a guy named **** Proenneke. He moved to a remote area of Alaska in 1967 and build a cabin by hand. And I mean, he really roughed it. All he had was an axe, a 2-handled blade, and a hand-saw.

He even made his own hinges and bolt/lock for the door.

He filmed it all and kept a great journal. Later an associate took all for the raw footage along with the journal entries and created a documentary called Alone in the Wilderness.

It's a truely inspiring show. Really gets you thinking about how much we really need in life.

That is a grate video.

 

[bczygan]

If you can get your hands on it, watch "Alone in the wilderness".

http://www.dickproenneke.com/

It's a documentary about a guy named **** Proenneke. He moved to a remote area of Alaska in 1967 and build a cabin by hand. And I mean, he really roughed it. All he had was an axe, a 2-handled blade, and a hand-saw.

He even made his own hinges and bolt/lock for the door.

He filmed it all and kept a great journal. Later an associate took all for the raw footage along with the journal entries and created a documentary called Alone in the Wilderness.

It's a truely inspiring show. Really gets you thinking about how much we really need in life.

I saw that and it was great. But how would I keep up with everything on GJ?

What gave me the idea was a TV show about Forest Service people and volunteers rebuilding a cabin in a remote primitive area where they had to pack everything in.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Build your wall section on a flat workspace, square it, tack on a couple of 2x4s to hold it square, then let in a 12' 1x4 at about a 45 degree angle. Build each section 8x8, they will be light and easy to handle. your assembly will go quick on the other end.

Old school, but very sturdy ! (I believe it is called "wind bracing".)

The trick is when you are "letting in" the 1x4, keep it tight. Sloppy cuts will allow the studs to "rack" (move).



Depending how far "off the beaten path" you are, you should check into a pre-fab shed like this one from Tuf Shed, delivered for under $8,000 (no paint, no floor).

Speaking of floor, although it will be a big job, I strongly suggest digging a foundation and pouring a slab. It will keep critters (like skunks and raccoons) from moving in underneath.

If your not going to pout a slab, make sure to use pressure treated joists and pressure treated decking. You want it to be up off the ground at least 12-18" so that there is no hiding place for critters. If you are in a cold weather area, you WILL want to insulate the floor. If you don't cover the underside of the floor system with pressure treated plywood/OSB then you should put heavy wire mesh around the perimeter and buried about a foot into the ground.

Last if you are planning on installing a wood stove, skip the wood floor in that area and install " cement board".

 

[cruzn57]

time and patience, and measure 2-3 times, LOL

have you thought about SIP panel? I have used them in a 4x8 configuration.
can be handled by one person, already square, and sheeted in and out, with insulation.
just a thought...

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

For a cabin- SIPS is definitely the way to go. Super insulation. Heating/cooling requirements can be minimal expense- especially if you use SIPS roof panels also.

But, as far as the wall building- a jig would give you the ability to make it a one man operation. And for inspirational thought, here's how modular manufacturers build walls-

 

[mattlago]

This is why I love this forum. Tons of good info here. As mentioned, I was looking for a jig to assist with me and the wife to keep it all square.

I had looked at sips and I have looked at sheds. I even researched on craigslist to find that a prebuilt shed that is used is probably cheaper than new materials. Go figure.

Looked into a generator and I think that may be key as I could then use it in the future and it would help a bunch with the build.

I live in AZ so insulation isnt a huge concern but will probably do it anyways. This does maybe rule out hand tools as while it can be done, I have no inclination to do this in the blazing sun.

I am looking for the cheapest, sturdiest structure that is spartan. This is why I came back to stick building after I looked at block and sips. I have a trailer I can bring out, so maybe i will do all of the wall sections at home and build the rest from there.

I did see last night online someone took put posts into the ground and then used 2x6x16s as sheathing and interlocked them at the corners. Like a wood cabin with 2x6's. I wonder how that would be if you had a post every 4 feet?

 

[theoldwizard1]

I am looking for the cheapest, sturdiest structure that is spartan.

Curious. Why not a pre-built (or assembled on-site by the company) shed ? The ones that HD sells near me look pretty reasonable (but the option packages are over priced).

Delivery cost ?

I did see last night online someone took put posts into the ground and then used 2x6x16s as sheathing and interlocked them at the corners. Like a wood cabin with 2x6's. I wonder how that would be if you had a post every 4 feet?

A link to pictures would clarify this.


But to the original question (framing jig). I don't think you have enough panels to bother. Just make sure the diagonals are equal. You absolutely DO need so kind of diagonal bracing unless you are going to sheet them before transport.

What are your plans for a floor system ?

 

[mattlago]

I researched HD and while the prices are reasonable it seems I can build much cheaper. That and the reviews are stating "dont forget paint, additional fasteners to replace the ones that came with it, flooring etc" Also, site delivery is not an option.

Floor system essentially is a raised deck.

 

[hdossett]

Get a small generator and build on site. I just built and 12x16 shed using standard building techniques and was able to lift the walls with no problem. Someone holding the brace poles would have made it even easier. Had a friend help set the home made trusses. Could have done it by my self, but he wanted to get away from the house and kids, I think!

Watched a neighbor truck in prefabbed walls and trusses (home made). Not that easy!

H

 

[NUTTSGT]

Matt, my friend, you are doing great. You're paying attention to what the guys here are suggesting and trying to help you out. Sounds like you have thought most of this build out and are thinking ahead.

We expect to see a thread and many pictures of the build as it takes places. When you think you don't have to take pictures, take a minute, grab the camera and snap a few. Trust me, you'll be glad you did.