Framing Walls: How do you fixed bowed out/in studs?

[ovilla]

Framing Walls: How do you fix bowed out/in studs?

I'm almost done framing and have now started to go back and check each wall, horizontally, with my 5' level. Anyway, I know you can plane a bowed out (into the room) 2X4 but how do you correct one that is bowed away from the interior of the room? People always talk about shimming the studs but how exactly do you do that? What does that mean and how is it done? I know I can simply replace the 2X4 but it just seems like a waste of material. The only other thought I have is to cut part way into the 2X4 (in the middle of it's vertical height) and then push/pull it until it is straight (and even with the other nearby 2X4's) and then nail a small 2-3' 2X4 next to the cut, to support the stud. What does everyone else do? Unfortunately, every book I've ever seen on framing does not really address this. They all assume you have perfect 2X4's, which is never the case. Thanks

 

[bmwpower]

You can cut the stud in the middle of the bow, pull it plumb somehow, then either nail another stud next to it or get some long 3/4" plywood strips and nail them on either side of the cut stud. I did the latter on a couple of studs of mine - 12+ foot studs were bound to bow sometime during my long construction. Building inspector ok'd the change prior to me doing it.

You can also get strips of the appropriate thickness and nail them on the shortside of the stud, on the interior. I did this in some spots, too

Might want to borrow an 8 foot level, too, if you can. Makes it easier to see where the bows are. Sometimes a short level can give you a false "reading".

 

[ovilla]

Gotta love the internet. This is exactly what I needed to know before I head off to Menards tomorrow morning and get sheetrock. Thanks

 

[Ian]

One thing a (good) builder does to make sure you don't get wavy walls is to mark the cup in all the studs and orient them the same way.

I've paired up a board with another one like bmwpower said and any good inspector will accept them, no problem.

 

[IDASHO]

First thing is first, make sure you are using decent lumber.

Beyond that, the thing I use the most to fix it is a 3" electric plainer

 

[Notch1988]

Like Ian said, always check your crowns and put them the same way.

 

[NHCharger]

Yeah, the quality of framing lumber has really gone down hill since i've been building. For the past ten years we have been crowning all the lumber, not just the floor joists and rafters like the old days.
Is this for a house or a garage?
When we framed if a stud had a crown of more than 3/8" it was put aside and cut up for crips, sills, blocking.
Before sheetrock if I found a bad stud we'd replace it. If it had wiring or plumbing in it we would cut the stud in half, pull it out as straight as we could and plate it on each side with a 4' strip of 3/4" plywood.
Many builders these days are going to metal stud walls on all non load bearing walls because of the poor quality of the framing lumber.

 

[1320stang]

When I was framing Pulte homes in Cary, N.C. 15 years ago, the quality of lumber sucked, we'd crown the studs, but inevitably you'd have one bowed too bad. We'd cut it and scab a 2'-3' piece on the side of it. A couple years earlier when I was building custom adobe homes in Albuquerque, the few studs we'd use (bathrooms, garage) were great, I got spoiled and later thought it odd that you'd get such great lumber in the desert and crappy lumber where there are a ton of trees. Now the lumber makes the N.C. lumber look like #1 grade.

Looking at Google Earth, I tried to pick out the area we built in Cary, but couldn't find it. I think I found my old apartment complex though, at I-440 and New Bern, just south of the intersection. I remember they'd have a big party once a month, bring in pizza and live bands, I remember '1964' being there, I think they were called "1964 as The Beatles" then, now they're called "1964 The Tribute" I believe.

 

[NHCharger]

I remember '1964' being there, I think they were called "1964 as The Beatles" then, now they're called "1964 The Tribute" I believe.

I saw them last fall. If you closed your eyes you'd swear it was the Beatles. The guy that portrayed John was so realistic is was spooky.

 

[snorvet]

An old timer showed me how to shim a bowed stud. Cut a slice a little less than half way through the stud on the inner side of the bow. Push the stud away from the outer side of the bow to eliminate the bow and line up with the other studs. The slice will get a little wider. Stick a shim in the slice. You can adjust the shim a little to fine tune the alignment with the other studs. The force of the bow holds the shim in place, but it doesnt hurt to nail another stud next to the bowed one.

 

[l_bilyk]

I got bowed out studs

 

[dps]

No one has mentioned it yet, but you can shim the low areas out with cardboard shims sold anywhere with drywall. They're 1/16 inch thick and can easily be torn to length and stacked to even up the face of the stud.

 

[1320stang]

I got bowed out studs

You cut the bowed side about 3/4 of the way thru and push in, this closes up the cut and you scab a piece of 2x4 onto the side.

 

[nofiron]

I've been a framing carpenter since 70'. A 3" planer & drywall shims are the standard now. Letting in a 2x4 (strongback) was and sometimes still is done and you can push or pull kind of depending how bad the bow is. Crowning studs is standard practice too and it cuts down on straightening. If it's your garage and you want it to be nice, spend a little time to make it that way. All the techniques mentioned are fine, when you cut or notch a stud to straighten it, sister it with another 2x4 or plywood. Also 5/8" drywall covers many sins, 1/2" isn't as forgiving.
Sheathing the wall with plywood is good because then theres backing for whatever you are going to screw into it or put blocks in for screw backing.
Hope it turns out nice.

 

[logical]

One way I've done it to interior wall studs that were bowed almost an inch is this. Line up a straight 2 x 4 at the top and bottom plates and use it as a straight edge to scribe a line representing where the stud would be if it was not bowed (the part bowed in beyond where it should be). With a Sawzall or circ saw, slice off the excess which will leave you a slice of wood that you move to the other side of the stud (which is obviously bowed in by that same ammount). Glue and nail that sliver on the other side and you now have two more or less straight sides.

 

[z28toz06]

instead of screwing around, why dont you just replace the studs that are bad? They are only a couple of bucks each, instead of placing another one next to it, which just makes more wood to drill through when you go to wire and plumb it.

Also if you know it wll be a while before you are going to sheetrock buy a few extra studs and screw them to the studs in the middle of the span so they dont get all out of shape on you in the first place.

 

[krooser]

Panel over it and don't worry about it....