framing ?
- Thread starter fdcyclone
- Start date
gabeancounter
Well-known member
start on a corner! best of both worlds!
Zeke
Well-known member
Stand the shorter walls first if you have stem walls above the slab. Frame them in the long position and then swing them around. Reason being is that the bottom plate and top plate will be longer than the slab width. Then stand the long walls up in between.
If you have an inside curb, you will have to frame the long walls on blocks. But better to do that than have to frame all 4 on blocks.
If you have an inside curb, you will have to frame the long walls on blocks. But better to do that than have to frame all 4 on blocks.
What do you mean that the sill and top plate will be wider then the slab? Another question I read that at each cut in the sill there needs to be a anchor within twelve inches. Problem is my bolts are in the slab and wont ever line up like that. Can I drill some holes and put cement screws there and be good? I think i'am in over my head!
Umm if you're asking questions like this already, I think you are in over your head.
Zeke
Well-known member
12" from each corner and door opening. Just splice the sills at an existing anchor and add another on the other side of the splice. Or you could double bottom plate and extend the splice 4 foot min. You probably didn't set the anchor bolts high enough for that.
Just keep posting and looking around on the Net. The answers are all there in spite of what some naysayers would have you believe.
Just keep posting and looking around on the Net. The answers are all there in spite of what some naysayers would have you believe.
PassnThru
Well-known member
Since Milt didn't answer that let me try -
I think he meant if you have blocks or a raised curb around your slab then your bottom plate and top plate will extend out past your slab - which is poured within the stem walls. Think of it in terms of your plates going from the outside edges rather than the inside edges.
If you are building on just a slab then it doesn't matter.
Toolfool
Well-known member
Building codes dictate the anchor bolt spacing. The bolts are usually installed with sill plate layout in mind. Cement screws do not meet code for anchoring sill plates. You can,however, drill into your wall and set anchor bolts with approved epoxy. You should check with your local building department on all code requirements before starting a project like this.
Toolfool
Well-known member
Check to see if he placed any bolts about 2' apart. That's where HE intended you to put the splice. The rest of the bolts are probably 4' apart.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Wall anchors need to be 1/2" hot dipped galvanized bolts, no more than 12" from the corners with spacing no more than 6'. That's per IBC 2006 which is pretty normal. If you do not have anchors, it would be a good idea to drill for some and epoxy them in. I'd use anchors like you might use for a lift. Cement screws - no, not even. Also - your bottom late needs to be treated lumber, so use only hot dipped fasteners in that ot they will dissolve. No regular nails.
If I was doing it, I would start by marking all your top and bottom plates all the way around. If doing it solo, break each wall into two sections. The long walls should run complete, so make corners for those and build one 15' section on the slab. For the end walls, build twp 12' sections, measured from the back. Stand up one 12' and one 15', brace and plumb the corner, brace and plub the ends and put a diagonal on top to hold them up. Then build the next 11' 5"' end section and stand it up, then maybe another 15' section in the front. Repeat for the other end.
You should also lay out your doors, windows, etc in the walls while they are on the ground.
See Post #37 here:
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100482&page=2
If I was doing it, I would start by marking all your top and bottom plates all the way around. If doing it solo, break each wall into two sections. The long walls should run complete, so make corners for those and build one 15' section on the slab. For the end walls, build twp 12' sections, measured from the back. Stand up one 12' and one 15', brace and plumb the corner, brace and plub the ends and put a diagonal on top to hold them up. Then build the next 11' 5"' end section and stand it up, then maybe another 15' section in the front. Repeat for the other end.
You should also lay out your doors, windows, etc in the walls while they are on the ground.
See Post #37 here:
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100482&page=2
Last edited:
rogsmart
Well-known member
Good tips from Toolfool and Falcon67. In over your head is where you learn things. Just make sure that what you end up with is done correctly even if you have to redo some things.
You're definitely gonna have to install some retrofit bolts at your plate splices. I would go with the epoxy anchors. Takes a little more time but is much much stronger. I like Simpson Strong Tie products. Home Depot generally carries their stuff. Their Epoxy Set22 is pretty good for what you'll need to do. Page link here: http://http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/adhesives/set/index.html
Installation instructions here: http://http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/adhesives/adhesive_anchoring_install.html
If you follow the instructions it's pretty hard to f it up. Also their customer service is pretty good in my experience.
If you want to upgrade the strength of your connection to your foundation add a plate washer. This is mandatory in some Earth quake prone areas and Hurricane prone areas. But it's a damn good idea no matter where you are.
Hope this helps some.
You're definitely gonna have to install some retrofit bolts at your plate splices. I would go with the epoxy anchors. Takes a little more time but is much much stronger. I like Simpson Strong Tie products. Home Depot generally carries their stuff. Their Epoxy Set22 is pretty good for what you'll need to do. Page link here: http://http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/adhesives/set/index.html
Installation instructions here: http://http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/adhesives/adhesive_anchoring_install.html
If you follow the instructions it's pretty hard to f it up. Also their customer service is pretty good in my experience.
If you want to upgrade the strength of your connection to your foundation add a plate washer. This is mandatory in some Earth quake prone areas and Hurricane prone areas. But it's a damn good idea no matter where you are.
Hope this helps some.
Attachments
Toolfool
Well-known member
No. Any type of "anchors" do not meet earthquake/hurricane code. They will not keep your walls from lifting off the foundation. Use the approved bolts with the approved epoxy, allowing the approved curing time before applying stress to the bolts. Remember, this is the only bond between your foundation and your walls (since there weren't any other hold-downs engineered in). I used to think a lot of these code requirements were overkill until I saw what a moderate earthquake (or a good storm) could do to a building.
hdossett
Well-known member
I think this is what you need for retro fit. Doing my shed, I did not have enough J bolts and will have to get at least four of them! I have a bunch of 3/8x5" one but may have to get the 1/2" ones! Lowes has them.
H
http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/
H
http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/
camarotoolman
Banned
Go to the library and get a book. When all else fails, read the directions. Good luck
K'ledgeBldr
Well-known member
YES! You probably are.
He might be a contractor- but not a very good one.
That "contractor" obviously didn't really know what he was doing. So, before I would go and buy a bunch of **** to fix "his mistake"- I'd get his *** on the phone and tell him to fix it. The IRC clearly dictates requirements for anchor bolts but, he obviously didn't think the whole process out. He's F#%K-UP. Make him fix it.