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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT From a "double" to a DOUBLE

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.

Ronin22

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BA
Wondering if I should I leave it, as is. Is it overkill to use some wire brushes to get rid of the remaining rust and perhaps treat the area and primer it? Thoughts?
I couldn't leave it be.
I would definitely get rid of it, and treat it.
But that's just me :willy_nil
 
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Purist

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I couldn't leave it be.
I would definitely get rid of it, and treat it.
But that's just me :willy_nil


Yeah, I’ve decided to address it. Now trying to figure out my best option to do so. [emoji1303]


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Mr. Roboto

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She's a gonner, man. I'll come haul it away for you as scrap :)

Start easy and work your way up until you've gone deep enough to remove it. Start with some sandpaper, then roloc abrasive disc (if you have any) or flapper disc if you have room, then work your way up to wire wheel. A cupped one should give you the access you need in there. Then treat with a rust converter and top with por-15, paint, or even the spray on bed lining since it's not a visible area. Do you think it's due to water collecting there somehow, or a battery that may have leaked at one point?
 
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Purist

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She's a gonner, man. I'll come haul it away for you as scrap :)

Start easy and work your way up until you've gone deep enough to remove it. Start with some sandpaper, then roloc abrasive disc (if you have any) or flapper disc if you have room, then work your way up to wire wheel. A cupped one should give you the access you need in there. Then treat with a rust converter and top with por-15, paint, or even the spray on bed lining since it's not a visible area. Do you think it's due to water collecting there somehow, or a battery that may have leaked at one point?

Funny guy!! hahaha :lol: Off to the scrapper she goes...

I assume the roloc disc is utilized with a drill/driver, correct? Not sure I'll be able to get the flapper disc in the areas where the rust is the worst. But thanks for the suggestions. Need to hit up Home Depot later so I can start on this asap and have it finished before my intake arrives. This car should already be on the road...the wait is killing me!!!

Any suggestions on rust converter? I know some people will see the name and think "really?!", but my buddy/neighbor has used the rust-oleum variant with good results in the past.

I think I want to try and match the primered look in that area, so probably won't go with the bed liner. Just a flat gray primer should give it the right look.

I don't think it's the taillight, honestly. I'm guessing it was more a leaky battery. But just to be certain, the next time I wash the car, I'll pay extra attention and see if any water is getting in behind the tailight. It'll be a good test since I use a pressure washer for car washing, anyway.

Thanks, Nick!
 

Mr. Roboto

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I have had good luck with the Rustoleum rust reformer. I'm working on the rear end I'm putting into my Jeep. A wire wheel and rust reformer took it from the first pic to the second. going to hit it to with 2 coats of hammered back as well soon. If you're going to paint, you'll need to prime anyways, so you might as well use a rust reformer primer. It can't hurt.

I use the roloc discs in a pneumatic die grinder. You can pick one up cheap at Harbor Freight - they're good for tight spaces and spin much faster than a drill.

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Purist

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I have had good luck with the Rustoleum rust reformer. I'm working on the rear end I'm putting into my Jeep. A wire wheel and rust reformer took it from the first pic to the second. going to hit it to with 2 coats of hammered back as well soon. If you're going to paint, you'll need to prime anyways, so you might as well use a rust reformer primer. It can't hurt.

I use the roloc discs in a pneumatic die grinder. You can pick one up cheap at Harbor Freight - they're good for tight spaces and spin much faster than a drill.

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That looks great!! I'm debating now between rust reformer or going with the POR15 starter kit. I could then use the POR15 flat gray top coat to get the finished look I'm going for.

And yes, I realize that spray can is $33, but even with that and the starter kit, I'm still under $60 total. Which is absolutely worth it for peace of mind. I'll probably grab a die grinder from HF like you suggested and some of those roloc discs and get to work. :3gears:
 

Mr. Roboto

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You will get better results with the POR-15. It's more expensive and much more time consuming, but it is a better product. Probably overkill for what you need to do, but I always say if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing.
 

fourmotioneer

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I would recommend doing some research on POR-15 before going that route. As I understand, it really needs a rusty surface in order to perform best. If you wire wheel down to clean metal, you might be better of with a more traditional primer.

I've used POR-15 on rusty parts in the past, so I don't have an issue with the product. It's just tough to remove once it's there, and it seems like there is probably a better solution for your situation. An auto paint expert will know what's what.

It's a really nice e46, and since you seem to care about the small details, figured I'd offer an opinion that might help you out. POR-15 won't ruin anything, but I think there's a more tailored solution
 

Mr. Roboto

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I would recommend doing some research on POR-15 before going that route. As I understand, it really needs a rusty surface in order to perform best. If you wire wheel down to clean metal, you might be better of with a more traditional primer.

I've used POR-15 on rusty parts in the past, so I don't have an issue with the product. It's just tough to remove once it's there, and it seems like there is probably a better solution for your situation. An auto paint expert will know what's what.

It's a really nice e46, and since you seem to care about the small details, figured I'd offer an opinion that might help you out. POR-15 won't ruin anything, but I think there's a more tailored solution

This is a good point. You need to treat clean metal with their “metal-ready” prep first and it will adhere.
 
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Purist

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I would recommend doing some research on POR-15 before going that route. As I understand, it really needs a rusty surface in order to perform best. If you wire wheel down to clean metal, you might be better of with a more traditional primer.

I've used POR-15 on rusty parts in the past, so I don't have an issue with the product. It's just tough to remove once it's there, and it seems like there is probably a better solution for your situation. An auto paint expert will know what's what.

It's a really nice e46, and since you seem to care about the small details, figured I'd offer an opinion that might help you out. POR-15 won't ruin anything, but I think there's a more tailored solution

This is a good point. You need to treat clean metal with their “metal-ready” prep first and it will adhere.

Thank you both for the feedback! The POR-15 starter kit that I linked in an earlier post actually includes the Metal prep. It includes all the following:

  • Cleaner/Degreaser
  • Metal Prep
  • Rust preventive coating
  • Brushes/gloves

So while it might be overkill, I'm OK with that. It's in an area that won't be seen by anyone, but like Roboto/Nick said, if it's worth doing, it's worth OVERDOING! Going to see how my Dremel handles the rust before I decide if a die grinder is necessary. Hoping to start tackling this project tonight after the boys go to bed. Worst case, I'll start it this weekend.

Cheers, fellas!
 
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Purist

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Happy to report that the unexpected battery compartment/tray rust project is now complete. Using a combination of wire brushes, wire wheels, roloc abrasive discs, sand paper, dremel grinding bits and patience, I was able to achieve this final result (with brand new OEM battery tray installed):

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I just need to add the 2 plugs (the original ones I ordered were the wrong size, so new ones should be arriving today) and this project will be 100% complete and in the rear-view!

Pretty pumped that the Coastal Grey Rust-Oleum Satin Protective Enamel topcoat did a fairly good job of matching the existing grey in that area! Again, NOBODY will ever see this, so it was more for me, but I'm happy with how it came out. Here are some progress shots I took (excuse the crappy lighting) along the way:

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After POR-15 Cleaner/Degreaser and Metal Prep:

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After 2 coats of POR-15 Rust Preventive:

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After 2 coats of aforementioned Rust-Oleum Coastal Grey Topcoat:

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A reminder of before/after:

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Purist

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Better than OEM :)

I think so, too! Thanks, man!

Great work. Probably overkill, except for OG followers, but definitely work worthy of pride!

:evil: You mean DEFINITELY overkill! :lol_hitti

Thanks, man....I'm very happy with how this came out and glad I took the time to do it right. Best part was, I was finally able to get the car out of the garage and drive it around town yesterday afternoon. Man I love that thing!

Great job, well done!

Thanks, dude! Kudos to you for all the helpful suggestions. :thumbup:
 

MINIz guy

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Apr 24, 2013
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206
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Philly
Is your car silver grey (A08)? I just bought an E46 330i and will be doing the rear subframe. Would be nice to use that Coastal Gray on the underbody to finish up the job

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Purist

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Is your car silver grey (A08)? I just bought an E46 330i and will be doing the rear subframe. Would be nice to use that Coastal Gray on the underbody to finish up the job

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Yes it is!


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Purist

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I now have a functioning sink in the garage! That said, the plumber didn't line up the sink with the cabinets above it, so it sets off my OCD a bit. I might move the cabinets over the inch or so needed to get them to be centered above the sink, but for now, I guess I'll survive.

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And the view from the basement:

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Wanting to clean up the pressure washer setup, I finally shortened the power cord. Not sure why I hadn't tried this earlier, but it literally took me all of 10 minutes.

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Still need to route the cord cleanly, but for now, so much better:

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Next up for the pressure washer is mounting the power switch somewhere, so it's not just hanging down the front of the unit as it currently is.

Also, the Karbonius intake has arrived in Boston and was supposed to be here yesterday, but DHL dropped the ball. Supposedly, it'll be here today, but I'm not about to hold my breath.

Cheers!
 
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Purist

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It has FINALLY arrived!!!! And it's even more beautiful than I could have ever imagined! ;)

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Luckily it's my wife's turn to put the boys to bed, so it looks like I'll start removing the factory intake tonight! Man I can't wait to get this thing installed. I've got a tentative appointment with HTE Performance Tuning Thursday @4pm to get the Alpha-N tune installed in my M3, since the new intake does not utilize the existing MAF. Stay tuned!
 
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M-technik-3

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Western Mass
Running MAP is better it's less likely to be contaminated.

Do we get a howl from the intake this weekend?
 
Last edited:

Arclitgold

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Wow everything is coming together! I’ll need to dig back through your thread for more details on the pressure washer


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Purist

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:lol_hitti

That sink is what’s up! I love it, and am supererrr jealous. Looks awesome. The intake is okay too :)

Haha, priorities!!

Running MAP is better it's less likely to be contaminated.

Do we get a howl from the intake this weekend?

I considered it, but have heard excellent things about HTE. They are the go to for CSL tuning, so I'm pretty confident it'll all work out.

Hopefully!!!!

Wow everything is coming together! I’ll need to dig back through your thread for more details on the pressure washer


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:thumbup:
 
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Purist

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Let the install commence (hope you're ready for this photo overload):

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Stock plenum/airbox removed:

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It was Cinco de Mayo, so a margarita was necessary:

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Blow by, what?!:

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Dirty throttle bodies:

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Removed and cleaned the ICV while it was accessible:

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Clean throttle bodies!:

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New Turner Motorsport throttle body boots installed:

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ICV cleaned and reinstalled:

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Swapped rubber mounts from stock box to the new Karb box:

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Carbon Fiber sexiness:

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Turner IAT kit supposedly fits all CSL intakes....EXCEPT the sensor they include 100% does not fit the Karbonius box:

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THIS is the sensor I actually need. Waiting to hear back from Turner on whether or not they'll refund me for the incorrect sensor and swap with this one:

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Needed to temporarily install the sensor somewhere until I get the correct one, so the tuner suggested putting it here for now:

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Some fabrication (lol) work was required for the new intake to fit. Trimmed this plastic piece back about 1/4":

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New CSL box installed:

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Remote tuning time (courtesy of HTE Performance):

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Along with the Alpha-N (CSL) tune (needed because I'm no longer running the factory MAF), I also opted for the cold start delete and a very mild burble (I was a bit skeptical, but he suggested I try it out and I am GLAD I did...it's so subtle, yet so perfect between shifts).


And tuned and all put back together:

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Mr. Roboto

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Nice job! That looks great, really a work of art. How does it feel after the tune? **** dyno notice an improvement? We need sound clips of that burble tune too!
 
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Purist

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Nice job! That looks great, really a work of art. How does it feel after the tune? **** dyno notice an improvement? We need sound clips of that burble tune too!

Thanks, man...agreed! :thumbup:

Like I told a few of my buddies, it's always tough to tell if there's truly a difference, but per the **** dyno, after the intake install and cleaning of the throttle bodies, the throttle response is ON POINT. I took a quick, little video of me merging onto the highway yesterday where you can get a decent sense of the induction noise. I'd like to setup my GoPro in the car soon with a mic placed under the hood, near the opening of the intake, to get a recording of some legit induction noise. Soon!

You can't really hear the burble tune (luckily), because it really is mild and is perfect. It causes the smallest of pops between shifts and letting off throttle after WOT. It's VERY subtle, but I dig it.


I just love that plenum.
Every time I see naked ITBs, I'm like

giphy.gif

That makes 2 of us! :lol_hitti
 
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Purist

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Your daily vs the weekend toy. apple or a banana or vice versa.


Ahhh, that makes way more sense. I mean it’s two different experiences. That said, if I could viably use the M3 as a daily, that would be my choice. But I do love all the modern amenities that the M340i provides, so it certainly has its place. And those 382hp help, too! [emoji48]


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Purist

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Swapped out the blinds in the garage for a blackout shade. I noticed that too much sun was getting through the blinds and that side of the garage gets all the morning sun/sunrise, so I did the M3 a favor and hopefully this new shade will protect the leather/paint from any future UV/sun damage:

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This picture was much darker, but my iPhone adjusted it for "night mode", so looks much brighter than it actually was. No light gets "through" this shade, so there's just the border of light you see. No actual rays of light hitting the M3 any more, which is great:

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Gave the M3 it's first wash of the year in preparation for an overnight stay in the Cape for the wife and I this weekend to celebrate our anniversary:

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And more of this CSL sexiness :evil: :

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Arclitgold

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I think the e46 M3 is the height of M3 sexiness. It’s perfect


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Purist

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Such a good car :bow:

Thank you, my friend!

Looking good! How are you liking the BC Racing suspension? Makes me feel like I'm neglecting my cars.

Very happy with it! Had the same suspension on my E90, which I was also very happy with and resulted in me sticking with BC for the M3.


I think the e46 M3 is the height of M3 sexiness. It’s perfect


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I think I would agree with you! :bowdown:
 
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Purist

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Not a whole lot happening lately. Been super swamped with work, but a few M3 updates:

Hood up after a quick rip through town, so couldn't help myself in getting some shots of the Karbonius box:

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Was then able to squeeze in a wash last weekend:

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Purist

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The very next day, when returning from a market nearby, the car cut out on me and threw a check engine light when taking off from a red light. Seemed to not be running on all cylinders (sounded like a damn Subaru boxer engine), but luckily, I was able to drive it home as this happened about a mile from my house. Immediately checked for codes and found the following:

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My tuner (Hassan from HTE) said it was most likely plugs or coils, and having never changed the plugs on the car in my ownership, I can only wonder if they're original or not. My mechanic neighbor also thought the plugs were the most likely culprit, noting the recent intake install and tune, and this was probably putting too much of a burden on worn out plugs. So I started the triage by replacing the plugs and, while I'd be shocked if they weren't THE single culprit, they were most definitely a large contributor...these things were toast:

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Plugs were all swapped over the weekend, but while I was at it, I decided to try and properly bend the OEM dipstick. I learned a valuable lesson during this time: I don't know how to properly bend pipe. I massacred this thing! So I did what I should have done from the get-go and ordered the CSL dipstick and tube from ECS Tuning Sunday night. It's on the UPS truck today for delivery, which is very impressive (yes, I paid extra for 1 day shipping)!

So once the dipstick situation is taken care of, I can reinstall the Karb box and take this thing for a test run and see if the misfiring situation is addressed or not. If not, then time to move coils around and see if they're also a culprit. Fingers crossed it's just the plugs.

While I had the cabin filter housing out, I decided to throw some Solution Finish on the faded cover:

BEFORE

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AFTER

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And lastly, my new vanity plates came in, after waiting pretty much the length of the pandemic for the MA RMV to allow them again:

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Purist

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New dipstick arrived on Tuesday:

1624550674921.png

Car is all buttoned back up, but still misfiring on cylinder 1. Swapped cylinder 1 and 2 coils, and the misfire then moved to cylinder 2, so clearly the coil is the issue. New one should be arriving today and hopefully that sorts out the last of the misfiring issues and I can get her back out on the road. Stay tuned!
 
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