This set was part of the local NAPA loaner-tool program. I "borrowed" it, and liked it so much I bought the thing. The tools and the instruction sheet are branded "KD" and "Danaher" which is now "Gearwrench".
These tools are unbelievably superior to pickleforks and hammering the hole the tapered stud goes into. I've seen too many damaged parts from both the picklefork technique, and the "hammer the iron" technique. This is a zero-damage solution.
The most-used tools eventually wore-out. I needed a couple of pressure screws replaced. I called Gearwrench, the woman in Customer Disservice
told me to buy OTC tools. She had zero interest in honoring the lifetime warranty. As best I can tell, the OTC set, and the KD/Danaher/Gearwrench/NAPA set, are made in the same Taiwanese factory to the same specs.
Eventually, the set went back to the local NAPA who actually had the record of my purchase (My receipt faded to illegible) and the entire set was warrantied, including the tools that I never used. I now have a virtually-identical Gearwrench-branded set that I don't have a picture of.
Be aware that the bottom-feeder knockoffs of this set do not have a hardened ball bearing on the pressure screw(s), so they're a higher-effort, higher-friction, higher-profit, lower-quality version. Bearing visible in picture, below.
I would pay for a larger version of the ball-joint popper to suppliment (not replace) the one in this set. The one in the set is fine for automotive; it's just barely big enough for SUV and light-duty trucks. I have used it on Trailblazer lower ball joints, and on my '88 K1500/'97 K2500 ball joints, but that's at the limit of it's capacity. From a certain perspective, it's beyond the limit of it's capacity on the pickups. But with enough harsh language and violence, it can be made to work.
Here in use on a '72 Toronado upper ball joint. Note ball bearing at bottom of pressure screw, where it bears against the lower lever.
As with any pressure screw, don't forget to lube the threads.
