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Frost Free Hydrant?

FORMUD

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Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
67
Location
Clayton, Delaware
What brand is a good one? What brand should I stay away from? Or are they pretty much equal?
I don't want to have dig one up every few years to repair or replace, so I'm looking to see which one has worked out best best for you?
Also, what is going to be the best underground connection to use?
I all ready have about 100' of 3/4" HDPE line trenched in about 48" down, so all I have to do is dig the hole and install.
 
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excavator

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Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
167
Simmons frost hydrant valves are the best http://www.simmonsmfg.com/index.php/our-products/hydrants/

The shaft can be removed from the top with out digging up to replace the valve in future

Dig down deeper and place clean stone under so water drains out weep hole and not freeze
You can use a compression fitting by male thread to screw in to valve and compresion on water line
 

holdover

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Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Messages
750
Location
VA
I live on a farm and have three of them, two were purchased at plumbing supply stores one at Lowes . Don't know the brands but they are about 30 years old and still working. I believe the secret to long life is a good gravel pit for drainage so the weep hole doesn't get clogged up causing the pipe to freeze up and split in the winter. I used # 57 gravel and the bottom sits in a bed about 18" square.

In looking at the post just before me seems like two of mine are Simmons.
 
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Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
Simmons frost hydrant valves are the best http://www.simmonsmfg.com/index.php/our-products/hydrants/

The shaft can be removed from the top with out digging up to replace the valve in future

Dig down deeper and place clean stone under so water drains out weep hole and not freeze
You can use a compression fitting by male thread to screw in to valve and compresion on water line

Simmons is made not far from me, but it is not the best. Truthfully, its ****. I had one that the seal became stuck, never could extract it, it came off the end of the operator rod, I even tried a tap on an extension screwed into it to grab it but ended up replacing it. In a hurry so I ended up with another Simmons.

Edit: to clarify, the rubber plug that is the valve stuck in the closed position, the rubber has a threaded brass insert molded into it, and when I raised the handle, the rubber separated from the brass insert. I then disconnected the rod, unscrewed the top, removed the packing and gland, pulled the rod and found the brass insert still on the rod. I tried screwing a tap right into the rubber to grip it, but to no avail.

All of these yard hydrants except for the Baker have similar design insides, with a large rubber plug that closes off the water, and opens the side hole, and when the handle is raised, the side hole is plugged by the sliding rubber plug and the water passage is opened.

The Baker uses a plastic spool valve with O-rings, a balanced system with low handle pressures.


Woodford is the same design as Simmons, probably no better than the Simmons.

While I have never used one, I am going to take a stab and say the Baker Magnum yard hydrant is probably the best design.

Quoting the web site:

The unique spool valve design and simple construction of the Monitor Magnum frost proof yard hydrant provides dependable operation and easy servicing in any weather.
The "Balanced Valve;" allows smooth, easy flow adjustment, since the water flow does not oppose valve movement, as in other yard hydrants.
Corrosion resistant brass valve body, acetyl spool and 3/4" Sch. 80 PVC wet pipe contain the water flow, extending hydrant life.
The elimination of a packing nut, valve rod and linkage adjustment eliminates most of the maintenance and repair kits required with ordinary hydrants.
When properly installed, occasional easy replacement of the three standard O-rings should be the only normal maintenance required.

Charles
 
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excavator

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May 12, 2013
Messages
167
the reason the seal unthreads from the rod is that when you remove the blue head and handle you first must disconnect the rod from handle to prevent the rod from spinning
 
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Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
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Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
the reason the seal unthreads from the rod is that when you remove the blue head and handle you first must disconnect the rod from handle to prevent the rod from spinning

In this case that had nothing to do with it. I went to open the valve and raised the handle and the rubber stopper ripped right off the threaded brass insert that is molded into it.
 
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Rookie2

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Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
1,925
Location
Western Pa.
I used teflon tape on a good old (china) farm store purchase, It split weeks later because some ******* overtightened the fittings. Use pipe thread sealer from a can !
 
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FORMUD

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Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
67
Location
Clayton, Delaware
I'm defiantly going to look into Baker. A good thing is there is a dealer for them two miles for work and I dealt with them in the past.
 
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