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Fuel line roto rooter?

jrsavoie

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We have a plugged 1/4" steel fuel line, about 3' long with several bends, on the 1963 John Deere 4010 diesel tractor..

I'm guessing it's plugged by the hard 90° bend

Trying to avoid excess disassembly.

Brake cleaner cuts the goo

We were able to run a red line for an aerosol can a ways into the line and that worked great as far as it would go.

The steel line is about 3' long and has some tight bends.
We used the plastic hose off a maf cleaner.

I was wondering if there was a better method to go about getting the line cleaned out without removing it.

 
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The Cobbler

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air pressure?
I'd be curious what the blockage is, if it's rust I would be thinking a bout changing the line. if it's just varnish, a blast with carb cleaner and let it sit ( once you get a passage thru it. ) the brake cable sounds like a good idea .
 

Spud McGee

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I recently had to unclog a small EGR pressure line. I went to the music store and bought a pack of guitar strings.

Cut a section of a fat string off, chuck it up in your drill, flood the line with brake cleaner, and roto rooter it with the guitar string.

There's a bit of skill involved getting the right length of string. You want it long enough to reach the clog, but not a ton of extra length between the drill and your hard line cause that will let the string twist and curl up.
 
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jrsavoie

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air pressure?
I'd be curious what the blockage is, if it's rust I would be thinking a bout changing the line. if it's just varnish, a blast with carb cleaner and let it sit ( once you get a passage thru it. ) the brake cable sounds like a good idea .
The blockage is black goo. No rust or I would be looking for a new line.
 
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jrsavoie

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What's the I.D. of the line?
They make 'Bore Snake' tools for firearms in various calibers, which you ought to be able to make work.
1/4" ID. If I remember right. No bigger than 3/8".

The bore snakes I am familiar with require getting them pulled through. Which means I have to get all the way through to begin with. I have complete blockage, somewhere in the line.
A bore snake is a great idea for final cleanup.
I'm sure I should have the correct size on hand
 

Spud McGee

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1/4" ID. If I remember right. No bigger than 3/8".
1/4" ID, i'd be looking at base guitar strings. if you used ones from a normal guitar, maybe a 7 string, the fat string out of the pack you could fold in half a couple times and still fit in the tube, but maybe not have enough length for what you need.

You do want to pick something that fits the inside diameter of the tube. If there's too much of a gap, your rotorooter will twist and flop around inside the pipe.

Something else I have used is an old manual choke control line. They are flexible, but still rigid enough. Kinda depends on how sharp the bends are in your fuel line. The sharper your bends are, the more flexible your rooter will need to be, which will make it tend to twist and bend.


The cheapest fix, assuming you cannot rotorooter it with something you already own, will probably be buy a new generic line and bend it yourself. You can cut your existing one and reuse the connectors at the end. You just need a $10 piece of tubing. And Autozone will event let you borrow the bender and flaring tools for free.
 
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jrsavoie

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1/4" ID, i'd be looking at base guitar strings. if you used ones from a normal guitar, maybe a 7 string, the fat string out of the pack you could fold in half a couple times and still fit in the tube, but maybe not have enough length for what you need.

You do want to pick something that fits the inside diameter of the tube. If there's too much of a gap, your rotorooter will twist and flop around inside the pipe.

Something else I have used is an old manual choke control line. They are flexible, but still rigid enough. Kinda depends on how sharp the bends are in your fuel line. The sharper your bends are, the more flexible your rooter will need to be, which will make it tend to twist and bend.


The cheapest fix, assuming you cannot rotorooter it with something you already own, will probably be buy a new generic line and bend it yourself. You can cut your existing one and reuse the connectors at the end. You just need a $10 piece of tubing. And Autozone will event let you borrow the bender and flaring tools for free.
I have the line and benders.
It's just a bad spot to get to.

I'm sure my issue is at the hard 90° bend.

A fair amount of disassembly.
If I can get it cleaned out without all that I will be time ahead.

If not I be willing clean the line after removal.

I'm working on my truck right now. - actually I'm getting ready to go out again.

And wishing Cleary builders had not vented the sidewalls of my building.

I have to cover the vents before I can have it spray foamed.

 

Firebrick43

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Firebrick43

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What gauge is that?

I'm guessing it's similar to what we call tag wire.
There are several sizes but normally use a .041”.

When I routed out a line I use two pieces twisted together. If I remember correctly I ended up using two to three pieces to work through the plug with was varnish from gasoline and rust.

It’s a stiffer wire than steel mechanics wire which is dead soft. Much stiffer than copper wire.

I think an old speedo cable or bicycle cable might work pretty well to
 

DGersic

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DeKalb, IL
MIG wire is pretty stiff. Maybe bend a jagged shape at the end. Or just push it through the pipe, and then bend a hook at the end before pulling it back through to clear the clog. Depends on how thick the goo is you’re trying to remove.
 
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