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Fuel Pressure Tester

Jeeper

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Dec 25, 2006
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Round Rock, TX
I see a lot of fuel pressure tester kits that range in the several hundreds of dollars. Usually these kits have a bunch of adapters for many makes/models. Sounds great for a pro, but is there any reason why one couldn't buy a decent gauge then make the necessary adapters? Guess for this to work, you'd need a source to buy the manufacturing fittings and t's with schraeder valves. Anyone done this?
 
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bobcatdan

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Depending what you are working on, most of the time you can test right from the scradder vavle on the fuel rail. Only in recent years has the scradder vavle been removed from more and more cars, hense the need for adapters. GM tbi is a different set up. I havn't worked on imports much so I don't how many adapters you need for those. I have a Mac master kit and other than a tbi once or twice, I havn't used any adapters. I work on cars on the side now a days and nothing really newer than 5 years comes my way.
 

larry_g

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oregon
I tried and found that the Schrader valves come in all different sizes and the ones on your tires are different than the ones of the fuel rails.

lg
no neat sig line
 

bobcatdan

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Ford used an under sized one on some models, but I think every buddy else was fairly standardize. I never look if the normal size is the same as a tire.
 
OP
J

Jeeper

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Dec 25, 2006
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Round Rock, TX
I noticed on some cars that don't have schrader valves, you need to remove the line to the fuel rail and put basically a T that has a quick coupler on one end to connect to the fuel rail, the male version on the other end (that receives the quick coupler from the fuel line), then the schrader valve to connect the gauge. Question is can you find those quick connects at the parts store so you can make your own T-adapter for specific vehicles?
 

Danglerb

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Sep 6, 2007
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SoCal
Lot of people buy something like the 2" gauge from Summit for $20 or so and put it permanently on a fuel rail. Gauges are typically 1/8 npt, my fuel rail is some weird metric ball fitting, and my fuel pressure varies about 35 to 60 psi, so best to TAKE CARE. You need it not only to not leak, but not have any bits go into the fuel system.

I've got whatever harbor freight sells sitting in my garage right now, but haven't used.
 
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airbuff101

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Oct 31, 2006
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Jeeper,
Take a look at Star products.
Now part of A&E Kastar and well made, proven equipment that has been the OEM for several tool truck companies for decades.
It is reasonably priced with excellent coverage and available through many online tool outfits under the Star brand.
This is the Company website but it is usually even cheaper through other sources.
http://www.aetools.com/products/diagnostic-tools/gas-petrol/fuel-injection.html
They make a wide range of adapters that can be bought separately as well. They back up there products well too.

airbuff
 

Danglerb

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Buy what you actually need, for a modern car that usually means if you can hear the fuel pump running, its working. The other end are older cars using the Kjet CIS injection system which is only covered in most master sets. Unless your a working mechanic no real need to spend more than $20 for a basic gauge and adapter, or "master set" like HF has on sale for about $80, or same from JC Whitney. If you need better, or maybe more durable my choice would be either a used OTC or Snapon for around $150.

I'm thinking for myself to buy a few of the $20 gauges like Summit sells and mounting them permanently on my fuel rails. No need to store it, find it, or hook it up, 5 seconds to look at it and see if the pressures look ok, which 99% is all you need to rule out half the trouble shooting.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-800199/
 

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mrholeshot

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Can someone recommend a "Master" set? Looking for something besides the truck brands.

Several tech I know have the harbor Freight master kit. They are really nice. Cost a fration of what my SO kit cost. They work really well and less than 100 dollars
 

Txchevy18

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Sep 21, 2006
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Location
Texas Gulf Coast
Any recommendations for a diesel specific fuel injection test kit? Most commonly 5.9, 6.7 and 8.3 cummins?

Thanks,
Cory

Sry for the hijack.....
 

diesel research

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gulf coast, TEXAS
Any recommendations for a diesel specific fuel injection test kit? Most commonly 5.9, 6.7 and 8.3 cummins?

Thanks,
Cory

Sry for the hijack.....

You have to specify which pump, since they have vastly different characteristics. I don't do common rail, but IIRC from a chrysler training I did, they mention 23,000psi high side.

On the other hand, the 5.9 was around for almost 20 years and had atleast 3 different types of injection pumps. The 8.3 shared some of them.

If you really must know high side pressures, it is probably easier to use the OTC vibration clmap that clips on the individual high side lines.

If you are doing low side transfer or return line restriction test, you can make something yourself, so long as you know specified pressures for your pumps.

Don't forget a vacuum gauge BEFORE the transfer pump. Often overlooked. 0 cranking vacuum could indicate out of fuel, hole in fuel line/pickup tube, or bad pump. Excess vacuum can indicate a pinched line or plugged pickup. 3-4" is often considered acceptable.

Often times you can tap into a bleeder port on top of the filter housing, depending on make/model of the engines chassis. Port's are often 1/8NPT standard, so it's easy to cobble something up. Diesel doesn't pose much speciial risk to most hose/fittings/gauges either.


Buy what you actually need, for a modern car that usually means if you can hear the fuel pump running, its working.

I'm thinking for myself to buy a few of the $20 gauges like Summit sells and mounting them permanently on my fuel rails. No need to store it, find it, or hook it up, 5 seconds to look at it and see if the pressures look ok, which 99% is all you need to rule out half the trouble shooting.

That is very often not true. Ok pump whirs. Doesn't tell me that it is pushing enough fuel or not bleeding down. Check valve bad, flex tube bad, worn commutators.

That isn't even covering the next 25ft of fuel system from tank to injectors back to tank if it has a return system.

A permanent rail mounted gauge may have some use, but in order to use it to it's fullest capacity, you need 2 people. One person has to ride around on top of the engine while the other takes it for a drive, or atleast power brakes it. As you can imagine, much less safe and convenient than using more appropriate tools that better gauge volume. About the only thing you can do is a return system dead head or static test, far from conclusive.
 
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