Fuel Proof Plastic Repair Material?

[Beemer]

Anyone have experience with a fuel proof plastic repair sealant?
Rouge squirrel out there sharpened it's teeth on the Toro plastic gas tank and left a small hole that leaks.
I'd like to patch it before trying to beat the bushes for a tank because it's a very our dated mower.

 

[Sumboodie]

I used JB Weld plastic on my diesel tank, so far been fine.
Was $1500 for anew rank or $5 for epoxy.

 

[larry4406]

I did it to a tank that was labeled HPDE. Harvested a piece from a benign location and used it to plastic weld the hole shut.

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[doctordirt]

Try seal all. JB weld on a well cleaned, drained oil pan did not work for me.

 

[four.cycle]

Seal All

been using it to repair METAL fuel tanks on lawnmowers for years. works great.
cannot recall if I ever used it on a plastic tank. I always end up with lots of extra tanks. which one do you need?
get it clean as a whistle and dope it up good with Seal-All and cross your fingers. it WILL withstand direct contact with GASOLINE.

something tells me vibration might be an issue though.... depends on which way the tank is hung from the engine, I suppose. some of those square-ish Tecumseh tanks hang off the cylinder head with a bracket and I've seen 'em shake like hell.

EDIT: 13:50 PST I have a 3 Tecumseh tanks (LEV-120 engines). also at least ONE "Quattro" tank. no others.

 

[LopezBart]

I patched a leaking seam on a plastic lawn mower fuel tank w/ a soldering iron. There was still gas in the tank ( but below the leaky seam)... it's still fine, so I guess it was a manufacturing defect.

 

[Beemer]

Try seal all. JB weld on a well cleaned, drained oil pan did not work for me.

I wondered about SealAll. The package description seems promising.
Perhaps I'll try a soldering iron and top with SealAll.

 

[four.cycle]

* I just got a P/M from another member.
Sorry, I spoke too soon.
Right now looks like all I have are Tecumseh LEV120 tanks (3 ea) and B&S "Quattro" tanks (the little metal one) - I saw at least one.
No Quantum tanks, sorry.

 

[Jsf721]

I keep this in stock and have used it on metal tanks. Do t see why it won’t work on plastic. It’s very sticky before it cures. Just rough up with b sand paper before use.

 

[Beemer]

* I just got a P/M from another member.
Sorry, I spoke too soon.
Right now looks like all I have are Tecumseh LEV120 tanks (3 ea) and B&S "Quattro" tanks (the little metal one) - I saw at least one.
No Quantum tanks, sorry.

Thanks for the offer. It is a Quantum.

 

[imagineer]

+1 for Seal All

 

[seber]

Some plastics will not hold any adhesive of any kind. The only sure thing is find a scrap of the same material and weld it with a soldering iron

 

[Beemer]

Tried welding with a soldering iron and although I was convinced it was going to be good it still leaked. Three tries and same result and I had enough of emptying the tank and drying the seepage so out came the propane torch and a piece of stiff sheet metal to smooth the whole tank side. That took two tried but it's finally sealed. That was a lot of effort for one little tooth hole.

Just for good measure I coated the entire area with Seal All.

Thanks for the ideas. It was an education.

I keep looking for reasons to scrap this mower because I hated it from day two but it lucked out again on this repair.

 

[four.cycle]

RE: that two-part "plastic putty" epoxy stuff:

^ I sold that same stuff made by Duro/Woodhill Chemical .
I'd go with the Seal-all.

Really sorry about stuffing my foot in my mouth there on the tanks. I had boxes full of parts and got rid of all of them a couple summers back and only kept a few.

I've repaired plastic lawnmower parts (and other stuff) with "Seal-All" so you shouldn't have an issue. I've had good results with it bonding to most plastics.

 

[Beemer]

RE: that two-part "plastic putty" epoxy stuff:

^ I sold that same stuff made by Duro/Woodhill Chemical .
I'd go with the Seal-all.

Really sorry about stuffing my foot in my mouth there on the tanks. I had boxes full of parts and got rid of all of them a couple summers back and only kept a few.

I've repaired plastic lawnmower parts (and other stuff) with "Seal-All" so you shouldn't have an issue. I've had good results with it bonding to most plastics.

We have a mower grave yard two towns away. The entire front yard of an old house is covered with mowers.
I don't doubt it makes the town officials scowl because it's right in the center of town.
I could always take a ride there for a tank but, like I noted, I am just waiting for the right excuse to dump it, perhaps take it for a ride to that place.

I surely regret selling both my 2 stroke Lawnboy and the following Kawasaki powered John Deere walk behinds but I didn't imagine that future offerings would not be better. The John Deere had a pumped oil system and filter, so to think I gave that up for Toro. Big mistake.
Maybe stuffing peanuts along the tank edges could lure the rascal back to finish the job.

 

[Caa311]

I have a John deere kawasaki walk behind and a toro. The toro is like a sports car and the deere is a tank.

 

[Beemer]

I have a John deere kawasaki walk behind and a toro. The toro is like a sports car and the deere is a tank.

My Toro was junk from the start and I went against my better judgement following a popular review magazine's TOP pick recommendation.
It blows dirt and clippings out the plugged bag chute at the operator in mulch mode and did that on day one.
The drive and blade clutch belts are constantly binding and burning up. It is an ordeal fixing the blade clutch belt.
The only good thing about it is the "guaranteed to start" but that's a credit to Briggs and not Toro.
Our Toro is no lightweight either. It must be near 90 pounds so it's useless when the drive fails.

If weight defines a sports car mower then Walmart has many for cheap.