Fully Welded Service/Utility Carts - are they stronger?

[tarbellb]

This thread went off the rails as far as this hobbyist cart-owner is concerned. Too bad because I was looking for actionable advice!

My cart occasionally works itself loose. I've just tightened up the bolts when that happens - but the hardware that came with my cart isn't the highest grade to begin with. I could easily swap for better bolts, I probably already have something suitable in my parts organizers.

To recap, we've got the following suggestions:

• nylon nuts, nordlock washers, locktite,
• apply JB weld or automotive adhesive to the joints,
• use longer bolts with spacers,
• use rivets instead,
• weld it,
• don't weld it because of stress concentration and metal fatigue,
• change the castors.

It sounds like riveting is the "best", but I assume we're talking about solid head rivets where you need an air hammer with a special bit, bucking bar, sold rivets, etc? If so, getting into that seems like it could cost more than my cart.

Upgrading the fasteners, applying locktite and JB welding the joint seems easier to action. I like the advice about using longer bolts with spacers too, but I'm pretty sure the bolts ends will intersect in the corners if I do that.

Or I could just weld it. It is my welding cart after all.

You skipped over the multiple threads that praise the poly carts.

Already own a metal cart..... weld it up like a open spool diff!

then slap a "fully locked" sticker on it

 

[JradM]

You skipped over the multiple threads that praise the poly carts.

Already own a metal cart..... weld it up like a open spool diff!

then slap a "fully locked" sticker on it

I already own a Rubbermaid cart. I agree, it's great!

My metal cart though, is for welding and fabrication. Can't do that on plastic!

 

[Hohn]

This thread went off the rails as far as this hobbyist cart-owner is concerned. Too bad because I was looking for actionable advice!

My cart occasionally works itself loose. I've just tightened up the bolts when that happens - but the hardware that came with my cart isn't the highest grade to begin with. I could easily swap for better bolts, I probably already have something suitable in my parts organizers.

To recap, we've got the following suggestions:

• nylon nuts, nordlock washers, locktite,
• apply JB weld or automotive adhesive to the joints,
• use longer bolts with spacers,
• use rivets instead,
• weld it,
• don't weld it because of stress concentration and metal fatigue,
• change the castors.

It sounds like riveting is the "best", but I assume we're talking about solid head rivets where you need an air hammer with a special bit, bucking bar, sold rivets, etc? If so, getting into that seems like it could cost more than my cart.

Upgrading the fasteners, applying locktite and JB welding the joint seems easier to action. I like the advice about using longer bolts with spacers too, but I'm pretty sure the bolts ends will intersect in the corners if I do that.

Or I could just weld it. It is my welding cart after all.

No wrong way to solve this one. Because you already have pretty large holes, I'd rule out the solid rivet idea for the reasons you mention. I have the hammer to buck up to 3/8 solid, but not many people do and doing good work by yourself is hard (you need a helper holding the bucking bar). So nix the solid rivets as a *repair*--my advocacy of them would be more for the OEM design aspect.

Nord locks are the only lock washer I've seen that will actually lock, and this is proven on the Vickers test (google it).

If it already has bolts, the easy button here is better grade bolts with NordLocks and higher torque. M10 at 10.9 is good for 36kN.

 

[Steve_P]

Like this?

BRUTE 3-Shelf Heavy-Duty Ergo Utility Cart, Small, Flat Shelf, 600 lb Capacity - Black

BRUTE 3-Shelf Heavy-Duty Ergo Handle Utility Cart (Flat-Shelf). The BRUTE Heavy Duty 3-Shelf Utility Cart with a flat shelf is a durable versatile cart that is ideal for transporting materials, supplies, and heavy loads up to 600 lbs.

www.rubbermaidcommercial.com

We used the tan colored basic two shelf ones that looked like this:

BRUTE Heavy-Duty Ergo Handle Utility Carts (Lipped-Shelf) |

The BRUTE Heavy-Duty Utility Cart with Lipped Shelf transports materials, supplies, and heavy loads securely with up to 500 lbs. load capacity. The lipped shelves prevents items from falling off the cart and features an integrated V-notch to hold pipe and conduit securely for safe cutting.

www.rubbermaidcommercial.com

No idea if the new is the same as what I'm sure is 5+ years old, but you really should give one of these styles a try. This says 500lb capacity, and plenty of the stuff we put on them required the overhead crane; it was obviously not tons, but not 100 lbs either, as two guys would just lift that.

 

[kniptastic]

Speaking from personal experience, this forum is excellent at finding state of the art solutions, but really doesn't like the "good enough" solutions because there is always a "best". We've had several of those bolted together ones floating around my shop and they've worked well enough if you add blue locktite, assemble loosely, and do a final tighten after you've gotten everything adjusted.

That being said, I would look hard at one of the rubbermade style plastic carts. I have a sunex branded one and its been a champ, currently has a gasoline roofing compressor sitting on top and it doesn't care one bit.