furnishing a shop

[moron88]

ok, here's the deal, i dont have a lot of money to put towards tools at this time but i would like to furnish my shop and bedroom with tools and equipment. i have a basic idea of what i need but i want your opinions as to what brands are the best value for the money.

in the future i'll be doing maintenance on my truck (i'll be getting one eventually) but in the mean time, i'll use the tools to work on hobby grade rc cars and trucks as well as my guns. i like tinkering and have intentions on getting a metalworking mill and lathe down the road once i get the basics as far as hand tools go.

i will be doing most of the metal work in my shop and the work on my rc's and guns in my room (it's heated... ish). i know i want a decent 1/4" hex bit driver as well as a set of dedicated drivers but i dont know where to get them at the best prices. other than that, i'm pretty much lost. my budget is $100 a month max, with my ideal budget around $20.

i have a bench top drill press (plan to replace with a better, floor standing unit), 2 bench grinders (one with grinding wheels and one with angle grinder wheels. my great grandpa's concoction. no idea what it's supposed to be used for), a bench top wire wheel, a hand drill, an angle grinder (mine, he never owned one to my knowledge ), a dremel (4000, top-o-the-line), a welder, propane torch and a 4lbs sledge hammer in the shop. anything else i should put out there? i will get an oxyacetylene torch eventually and i'll probably upgrade my welder too (it's a cheap harbor freight flux core unit).

thanks for any and all help.

 

[bobcatdan]

All shops need a good sturdy bench with a vise mounted on it. There always a ton of workbenches on CL. New benches are really not expensive as one one think. Northern carries some made bt little giant. Fully welded and made in the USA. If I was in the market, I'd have at least one 60"x30" ordered.

 

[moron88]

how about a 120"x30" i guess i should have mentioned, there is a wraparound bench built onto the wall that's about 8' long on one wall and 5' on the other, not counting the corner. on top of that, there's a steel table that's probably 5' wide and 3' deep and an old dining room table by the wraparound. in my bedroom, i have another old dining room table and some other surfaces that act as tables and i have a desk that i'll be putting in here when i clean a spot for it (currently my room is full of metal shelving units with recording equipment and box after box full of 7" reels and video cassettes plus some not in boxes). then there's the 6 or 7 foot table in the basement if i need any more table space. i'd say i got it covered

 

[TSirotock]

You truly can never have enough bench space and a bench and vise are the foundation of a shop. That said it sounds like you need a good 48 or 60-inch "clean" bench for hobby work, something that stores the tools and supplies. I would start building your precision and light duty tools, 1/4-inch Sockets and accessories, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.

I would start with a so-called rally-style box, it can always give service even after you move up to a large box and can hold a lot of tools in a small space. I find 1/4 and 3/8 more handy for most work, 1/2 is needed for lug nuts and suspension work mostly, combination wrenches give the best value, and then speciality tools as you hit the job they require.

Most things are a better value in a set, but cost more up front. Starting out I would build a good "take with me" box and buy good-enough quality, not even better or best. You can always build the dream box full of the better or best stuff when you are older, get the stuff you need and use now, learn with it, break it, lose it, get the experience to know what you want or need.

 

[moron88]

thanks for the advice. i guess the first thing to get is a vice. i'm going yard saling next month down in Indiana (there is an apple harvest festival in my grandma's town on main street and there is always a bunch of yard sales) so i'll snoop around for tools then. if i dont find a vice, i'll get that 6" i've had my eye on at harbor freight. i also need to get one for my drill press, i've been using a pair of channel lock pliers. i know, not the best idea, but it's the best i've got.

 

[Outlawmws]

One caution for the gun work; do NOT skimp in drivers. Gun screws are precision screws and tightened a lot tighter than people realize. They require a perfect fit or you WILL tear up the slots. at a minimum, spend the money on a Chapman driver bit set as that is a good solid US made set, and adequate for the hobby gunsmith.

 

[Need4racin]

save up your money and buy a craftsman tool kit on black friday, they are always half off. screw driver usually are too. harbor freight angle grinder isn't bad.

Really save up all the money you can and buy as much as you can this black friday.

 

[Link-Belt]

One suggestion from me would be to skip the oxygen/acetalean torch and invest in a good compressor and plasma cuttor. The initial cost will be more but cheaper in the long run seeing you won't have bottles to refill and I've never heard of a plasma cutter exploding.

Sent from my SCH-R720 using Tapatalk 2

 

[plinker]

Brownells sells very good bit's indvidually or in set's, they are not cheap, but are the best. Midwayusa also has bit set's but I have not used them.

A floor jack plus stand's if you dont have them, a good air compressor,

Dont overlook storage cabinet's or shelving for your tool's & supplies either. Good lighting is another must, IMO.

 

[hunterguy86]

Don't overlook torx and hex keys. I've found that I use those more than anything else on my bushmaster m4.

 

[moron88]

thank you all. i'll add specialized gunsmith tools to the list.

need4racin, they wont let me bring my glenfield 60 loaded with hollowpoints and that's the only way i'd ever go to a black friday sale.

link-belt, the torch is for brazing, not cutting. plasma cutters cost more than i get in a year anyway.

plinker, i'll get the jack and stands when i get the truck. what benifits do air tools have over electric? i have a couple compressors now but the big one only goes up to 60psi and the small one is, well, small. it's a craftsman 100 psi tankless and i have a 5 gallon 110psi tank i used to use for my cheap airbrush.

hunterguy86, i'll be sure to look into some nice hex drivers. i dont really use torx much. i dont currently own any guns that use hex/torx (i'm more of a wood and blued steel kind of guy) but high end rc's use hex screws everywhere.

keep the suggestions commin'!

 

[LSU]

Hate to sound too practical but . . .

I'd get a good fire extinguisher and a great first aid kit. Mount them where you can find them. Hope you never need either.

On the wanton and wreckless side - I like having a good air hose on a reel. I also like having way more 110v plugs than I think I can ever use.

I'd get a 220V for a welder (even if you don't have one).

Get the lights and electrical power done on the front end so you don't have to squint when you're trying to work.

My opinion is you can't have too many plugs and too much light.

 

[moron88]

i have a fire extinguisher. i got it after setting some old jeans on fire with my welder (why did i have jeans in my shop? i have no idea...). i really need a first aid kit though. i'm careful when working with sharp, hot and rotating tools but i have cut and burned myself before and i will probably do it again. that reminds me, i need some new work gloves, welding gloves and a pair of safety goggles (my regular glasses work ok but it'd be a good idea to get a real set)

 

[moron88]

any suggestions for a soldering iron? i would like to give circuit board work another try, this time with proper equipment.

 

[rusty65]

For light work I would get a radio shack soldering iron station.

 

[shampoop]

any suggestions for a soldering iron? i would like to give circuit board work another try, this time with proper equipment.

a very expensive one bought for next to nothing at a garage/estate sale.

 

[moron88]

i would be making LED arrays mostly. some with the LEDs mounted directly to the board and some with the LEDs on various lengths of wire. i have been looking at this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TC8EQS/?tag=atomicindus08-20 because i like the idea of using hot air for soldering on the boards. how would this compare to the radio shack station? i am aware that the blower is meant for surface mount components but it can be a real pain to get the iron in the correct position for soldering on those boards.

 

[Givl Reggin]

... bedroom with tools and equipment...

There's a joke in there somewhere I know it.

 

[granitestater]

For working on guns get the Brownells hollowground screwdrivers and their inch pound torque driver

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=25706/Product/MAGNA-TIP-reg-ADJUSTABLE-TORQUE-HANDLE

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41571/Product/MAGNA-TIP-reg-SETS

These will work well for scope mounts, bases etc. For rebarelling you will need a foot pound torque wrench and specialty tools to fit your particular firearms

 

[moron88]

she needs them because i dont get the job dune

 

[moron88]

For working on guns get the Brownells hollowground screwdrivers and their inch pound torque driver

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=25706/Product/MAGNA-TIP-reg-ADJUSTABLE-TORQUE-HANDLE

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41571/Product/MAGNA-TIP-reg-SETS

These will work well for scope mounts, bases etc. For rebarelling you will need a foot pound torque wrench and specialty tools to fit your particular firearms

i have a savage 24 and a glenfield (marlin) 60, no need to rebarrel either. the savage is pulled apart and the 60 has 5 screws and a barrel nut. i was looking at the chapman model 8900 27 piece kit and a forester #6 12" shank screw diver for tightening stock screws.

 

[CD1]

Midway USA Wheeler Engineering 89pc gunsmithing screwdriver set: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/439523/wheeler-engineering-89-piece-professional-plus-gunsmithing-screwdriver-set

Less than when I bought one years ago.

 

[plinker]

A blow gun can be very helpful for cleaning a lot of things (dust, dirt, oil, ete), A die grinder, straight and angled, are more or less big dremel's, a 1/2 impact is great for all around use,

The biggest advantage with air tool's over electric is more power in a smaller size tool, depending on compressor (the bigger the better, but 30-60 gal will keep up with most stuff). If you get into any of the epoxy type firearm finishes you can run a air spray gun too.


Definatly get some saftey gear if you need it too.

 

[granitestater]

i have a savage 24 and a glenfield (marlin) 60, no need to rebarrel either. the savage is pulled apart and the 60 has 5 screws and a barrel nut. i was looking at the chapman model 8900 27 piece kit and a forester #6 12" shank screw diver for tightening stock screws.

And all of those screws have a torque spec. The barrell nut on Savage centerfire rifles also has a torque spec and requires a special wrench. To gunsmith properly certain specialty tools are needed.

 

[Larwyn]

I will agree that my plasma cutter sees more use than my oxy/acetylene rig for cutting steel. But my oxy/acetylene rig will do much more than just cut metal. I use it for heating, bending, welding and brazing, as well as for cutting steel that is too thick for my plasma cutter to handle. If I had to do without one or the other it would be the plasma cutter that would have to go. The oxy/acetylene rig is not just a "cutting torch".

 

[moron88]

And all of those screws have a torque spec. The barrell nut on Savage centerfire rifles also has a torque spec and requires a special wrench. To gunsmith properly certain specialty tools are needed.

i was talking about the actual hardware barrel nut, like this

the 24 is a break action take down combination gun chambered in .22lr/20 gauge, screwless disassembly. i dont own a centerfire yet. when it comes to barrel swaps and the like, i'll take it to a licensed gunsmith. all i'll be doing is cleaning. the screws dont seem to need much torque, hand-tight has been working so far.

 

[moron88]

I will agree that my plasma cutter sees more use than my oxy/acetylene rig for cutting steel. But my oxy/acetylene rig will do much more than just cut metal. I use it for heating, bending, welding and brazing, as well as for cutting steel that is too thick for my plasma cutter to handle. If I had to do without one or the other it would be the plasma cutter that would have to go. The oxy/acetylene rig is not just a "cutting torch".

yep, mine will mostly be used for bending rod and brazing. occasional sheet metal cutting (16-11 gauge), but not very often. nothing to justify a plasma cutter at this point.

 

[Notwerk]

any suggestions for a soldering iron? i would like to give circuit board work another try, this time with proper equipment.

Weller WP25. Don't want to get much hotter than that if you're planning to do board work.

 

[J HAV]

All shops need a good sturdy bench with a vise mounted on it. There always a ton of workbenches on CL.

WORD

 

[Link-Belt]

I will agree that my plasma cutter sees more use than my oxy/acetylene rig for cutting steel. But my oxy/acetylene rig will do much more than just cut metal. I use it for heating, bending, welding and brazing, as well as for cutting steel that is too thick for my plasma cutter to handle. If I had to do without one or the other it would be the plasma cutter that would have to go. The oxy/acetylene rig is not just a "cutting torch".

Yes my torch sees all uses aswell only because I don't have a compressor or plasma cutter at the moment. The OP already said he had a welder and not to many folks know how to weld with a torch and a coat hanger anymore (my pops thought me) the bending and brazing can be done with a propane torch and if your cutting metal thicker than what a good plasma cutter can cut your doing more then automotive repair or gun smithing. I've cut a frame on a 41 Chevy to add a Camaro front clip with a plasma cutter betore.

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[Larwyn]

Yes my torch sees all uses aswell only because I don't have a compressor or plasma cutter at the moment. The OP already said he had a welder and not to many folks know how to weld with a torch and a coat hanger anymore (my pops thought me) the bending and brazing can be done with a propane torch and if your cutting metal thicker than what a good plasma cutter can cut your doing more then automotive repair or gun smithing. I've cut a frame on a 41 Chevy to add a Camaro front clip with a plasma cutter betore.

Sent from my SCH-R720 using Tapatalk 2

My plasma cutter, a Miller Spectrum 375 Extreme, will cut 3/8" cleanly and can work it's way through 5/8". But I can get a cleaner cut in anything over 1/2" thick with oxy/acetylene. I enjoy my plasma cutter immensely, but still it is a luxury item while the oxy/acetylene rig is an essential shop tool to me.

 

[moron88]

not to mention a decent plasma cutter starts at 2k plus compressor whereas a decent oxyacetylene torch with filled 60cf tanks can be had for 1k.

propane just isnt enough for what i'd be doing. it can heat up 1/4" round bar to bending temps, but i can bend it cold by hand anyway. i plan to do some work with 3/8" round bar, 1/2" square tube (.064" wall i believe) and 3/16"x1" steel strip and all of it needs bent and brazed. i probably wont be doing much gas welding, but i know the basics of it and i know of a few tutorials on how to do it well.

notwerk, thanks for the recommendation. if i cant find a soldering station that'll do all that i want, i'll see about getting one of those and a soldering gun (25 watts doesnt work for anything beyond 16 gauge wire in my experience and i'll be frequently working with 12 gauge and occasionally 10 and 8 gauge. RCs can draw quite a lot of power).