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Future Proofing

ishamael69

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2016
Messages
16
Location
BA, OK, USA
Before I close my walls, I would like to attempt to future proof. Right now I just tinker in my garage, and all I have is 110V tools, basically 15 amp max. I was thinking of running some 10/3 for a possible future compressor, and then maybe 2 more 10/3 sets to my working area. On each of these two, I would install 2 x 20amp GFCI outlets in a multi wire branch circuit config. Then, if I ever need 220 in my work area, I just rewire the 2 outlets into 1 220. Sound good? Forgetting anything?

If I do the above, can I use a 30 amp 2 pole breaker, even with the 20 amp outlets? I know in a house, you can use 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp circuit, so I figure it is the same, but I might be wrong.
 
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wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,004
Location
Modesto, CA
U cant have a 30a breaker protecting a 20a or smaller outlet.

And wiring for motor circuits is based on HP rating. So if u want to future proof u need to figure out what HP compressor u will get then, pull correct wire size. 10/2 NM-b isnt large enough for 5HP...
 

ard

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Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
Id put in conduit- PVC or EMT- and not wires. Low voltage, AC, control, data, fiber...all can be placed in conduits. One for AC, the other for everything else. Like 3/4" or even 1"

Edit: And conduit lets you figure out all that **** later....in the future. ;)
 
Last edited:

-Brent-

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Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
4,709
Location
Utah
The only thing I've done both in my house and in the shop is provide access at certain areas. Each of my home runs is accessible. In the shop, I have a section (a narrow strip) of attic floor that could be pulled up if I needed to run something new. Also, in the house, I have an area where I have one of those plastic access panels that covers a 12"x12" hole. If I needed to pull something up to the second floor, this would allow me to do it without cutting anything. There'd still be areas where I would have to make changes but if I knew what I needed, in the future, I'd have already done it.
 
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Shiftless

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Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,540
Location
East Bay SFO
Id put in conduit- PVC or EMT- and not wires. Low voltage, AC, control, data, fiber...all can be placed in conduits. One for AC, the other for everything else. Like 3/4" or even 1"

Edit: And conduit lets you figure out all that **** later....in the future. ;)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
:+1: on this

That's exactly why I did mine that way
 

Markfothebeast

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
419
You can always just run the 10/3 wiring where it is needed and use a blank faceplate so there is no future confusion. I'd leave the 10/3 uncut and labeled on the panel side until it is being used.

I run a 2 pole 30 amp breaker with 10/3 to my 3.7HP 240v compressor which uses 14.7a continuous. Estimate twice that current for startup draw. I only actually needed 10/2. If you can afford to run 8 gauge wire, go for it.

I ran 12/2 for all of my outlets on 20 amp breakers with actual 20 amp outlets. I was blowing fuses with 15 amp outlets on 12/2 (when we had a lug fuse panel). Other things to think about; speaker wire, Cat5e, coax, exterior GFCI, outdoor flood lights, etc

10/3 is thick. I wonder how difficult it would be to run through corner conduit?



Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

Firebrick43

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Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,032
Location
West central Indiana
Ard has it +2 on the conduit. In fact I am going to put all my wiring in conduit(emt). If you watch your sales and are doing the work it's very close to Romex. I wanted to do rmc but it's a dollar a foot above emt in cost.
 
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