Gable end garage door opening

[nsmithnd]

Have been kicking around the idea of a detached 26'x36' garage with 10' sidewalls and scissor trusses for a little extra height. Would also like a 10' high door on the gable end. Do they make roof trusses with a built-in header? (have been scouring the internet without much luck)

(edit) Am seeing motor home garages where the door extends up above the wall height (into the gable), not finding anything that shows what's going on behind the siding though.

 

[Catadj78]

 

[kramarj]

I'm not sure if they make trusses like that, but you can cut a trough out so that you have room for your door to go up into. If that makes sense. People have wanted us to install doors in buildings where the ceiling height was close to the same height as the door and they have just opted to cut out the bottom cord of the truss to allow the needed headroom.

I am no carpenter by any means, so I can't give any advice on how to go about doing it, but just giving you something to think about.

 

[MushCreek]

The gable end truss is different than the rest. Because of the siding, it doesn't have to have all of the diagonal pieces that a regular 'W' truss has. They usually just have the rafters, bottom chord, and vertical framing as an attachment point for the siding. Just have the gable end made with a notch in the bottom- a truss manufacturer will design and engineer it. Gable ends don't need the big massive headers, because they aren't holding up multiple trusses with their roof load that a side wall opening does. The rest of the trusses would then be scissors trusses to have enough clearance inside.

 

[cdestuck]

Your best guess is to draw up a pic of the type of truss you want and go to a building center and have them forward it to their truss company. The computer software can spit out some pretty good stuff.

 

[Jlbc212]

The gable end wall is generally considered to be non-load bearing, so you really don't need a garage door header. You can get a gable end truss, but it sounds like that wouldn't give you the headroom you want. You could use a scissor truss on the gable end and stick frame below the scissor truss to the height you need.

 

[RCman]

I've got a door in the end of my gable it does not go above the wall height but that should be pretty similar. It goes up into a framed out pocket between the trusses that are 2' on center. It is tight but it does fit. The entire thing is blueboarded and insulated but to access the spring there is an access cutout that is sealed up from the attic side. Something to think about.
Also keep in mind you probably should put another header or at least some boards in the wall well above the door to secure the top spring and track. I can dig up more pictures if you need.

 

[rburke65]

Garage door in the gable end or the eve end.

 

[1938flatty]

It can be done.. We had a garage that was 30X40 with 10 foot walls and scissor trusses. I had a 12 foot wide 10 foot tall door centered in the gable end. If I recall it had a 6/12 roof in it.

 

[Cyberbear]

Why not save yourself some trouble and simply go with 12' walls and use a 10' roll-up door?
This way you'd be using all standard construction and may just solve the problem. I have 12' walls in my shop/garage and it's worked out great.

 

[RCman]

Why not save yourself some trouble and simply go with 12' walls and use a 10' roll-up door?
This way you'd be using all standard construction and may just solve the problem. I have 12' walls in my shop/garage and it's worked out great.

Lack of insulation in the door is why I didn't use a roll up. When I was shopping the max around was one with an R-value of 7.7 (or whatever under 8) and it was pricey. I was able to get a commercial vertical sectional door with an R-value of 18.3 for a lot cheaper.

 

[1938flatty]

Or you could just build it how YOU want it with 10 foot walls and a 10 foot insulated garage door with without spending a bunch of unnecessary time and money.

These pictures are not the best, but it's all I have.

 

[1938flatty]

Sorry, forgot the inside.

 

[dirttracker18]

I have exactly as you are describing, except I have 12' walls with a 12' door. Same idea.

I have scissor trusses including the one over the door on the gable end. The challenge is connecting the two walls on each side of the door so the entire wall does not move when the door goes up and down.

With the scissor truss you do not need a header, although I built one anyway just to make connecting everything together a little easier.

So yes it can be done as you are asking and it works great and allows the extra height without going into much higher walls.

As you can see the top of my service door is the same as the bottom of my eave.