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Gable end header over garage door

Reit38

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Iowa
Right now I have a 16ftx10 opening with a slider on the gable end of my pole building. I recently bought an overhead door. Door is 16x8. Do I need to put in a true header or can I build basically a false header to drop my outside steel down and attatch my spring and rails to on the inside
 
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loganb

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Pictures of interior and exterior? At the least the new door is probably heavier then old and the spring needs something solid to attach to
 
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Reit38

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Sorry for crued drawing but this is what i was thinging of doing. If drawing makes sense. Right now I believe it's just the 2 outside posts that the rafters is sitting on. Can see above due to the ceiling. I believe the current door rail is attached right to the gable rafter20251016_193439.jpg
 
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BillK

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I would think that the header is only really needed to support the gable wall above. There is probably already something there for that purpose. There really is no downwards force from the door anywhere but at the ends where the cable reels attach. I dont see why what you have drawn would not work. Can you post a picture of what is there now from inside the building ?
 

PCustoms

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False header is fine, there's no load on a gable end and all your doing is closing in an existing (supported) opening
 
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PCustoms

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Are you replacing your existing door or adding a new one to a different spot?
 
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Reit38

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Best i can do for a outside pic right now. Its currently dark here.Screenshot_20251016_200246_Gallery.jpg
 
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PCustoms

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Edit: pic loaded when I posted.

Just box that in as needed and install your door
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
Before I typed I went out and looked at my garage door from inside. As has been said the door and tracks etc all mount to the inside of your posts. Two cautions; 1- The door should be about 2" wider than the finished opening so measure both before proceeding. You might need to add a 2x6 to a post to reduce opening width. Also the side surface of the posts will now be exposed to weather. So either paint w/ exterior paint or cover w/ some PVC trim boards. 2- If you go w/ a chain or belt opener the door end of the opener track needs a 2x6 or so on the inside of the wall centered above the door so work that into your filler piece.
 

Hank11

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Frame it to resist movement in and out. A floppy header won’t seal well and may not let the door operate properly. Its not hard to do.
 

finn

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The UP, God's country
I put a 2x10 header in mine, supported by (jack studs?) 2X6s nailed to the sides of the 6x6 posts.

You need something to attach the torsion springs to, and to support the short studs running up to the roof (studs that the sheathing purlins attach to.
 
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mike93lx

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I put a 2x10 header in mine, supported by (king studs?) 2X6s nailed to the sides of the 6x6 posts.

You need something to attach the torsion springs to, and to support the short studs running up to the roof (studs that the sheathing purlins attach to.
The header is supported by jack studs. Kings run all the way up to the top plate.

If he adds any framing to the opening, it would typically be Jack's and then cripples go above the header to provide a place to fasten sheathing/siding

1760869214677.jpeg
 

LXCam

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At that span I’d be concerned of it sagging over time with a false header.
 
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