Gable end lean-to addition

[Nick_Wa]

We are adding onto our deck this summer and replacing all of the existing deck boards for new 5/4 decking. This leaves me with 30 2x6x16' PT boards of which I would like to use to build a lean-to on the back of my 24x24 garage.

The walls are 8' and I will be building onto the gable end. This year I won't have the funds to enclose it but next year or the year after I would like to enclose it and possibly pour a pad.

For now I would like to build something like this:

A few questions (I know there are a lot of lean-to threads on here but didn't find these specifically):

1. Can I attach the ledger above the 8' wall section or should I keep it below the top plate of the wall?

2. Is a 10' span with 2x6 on 24" centers (metal roofing) or 10' span with 2x6 on 16" centers (shingles) doable? 3/12 or 4/12 pitch.

3. Should I pour piers to hold the 4x4 supports and can these tie into the future pad?

Question 1 I am very interested in because it will determine a few other things.

Here is the back of my garage:

 

[pattenp]

#1 - Depends on the wall structure if it can support the weight of the roof pushing laterally against the wall. Is the gable an end truss made with 2X4's laid flat?

#2 - Depending on the wood species, 10' span will work for 2X6 rafters on 24" centers.

Edit: Even though 24" will most likely work, I suggest 16" if using heavy roof covering and the snow loads you may have.

#3 - I would do piers to keep the post ends above grade. Use anchor brackets and don't sink the post in the concrete. Later you can pour concrete around the piers.

 

[Nick_Wa]

Here is how the framing in my garage is done. Gable end is 2x4s in the same orientation as the wall studs but on 24" centers.

 

[Zeke]

#1 - You can bolt to the plate or above but you should make sure you hit the cripple studs and put continuous backing there like an interior ledger when going above. Add kick bracing if you need to.

#2 - Get as much pitch as you can and still have a 7 foot clearance under the header.

#3 - Make pyramids or step your piers and form them sized for the total load including snow and wind. As Charles says, anticipate where your slab grade will be and set the anchors accordingly. Use a metal pad under the post anchors (usually supplied).

 

[Nick_Wa]

#1 - You can bolt to the plate or above but you should make sure you hit the cripple studs and put continuous backing there like an interior ledger when going above. Add kick bracing if you need to.

#2 - Get as much pitch as you can and still have a 7 foot clearance under the header.

#3 - Make pyramids or step your piers and form them sized for the total load including snow and wind. As Charles says, anticipate where your slab grade will be and set the anchors accordingly. Use a metal pad under the post anchors (usually supplied).

Thank you.

My concern about going above the top plate was if there is any chance of the gable end "hinging" on the top plate of the wall. It would certainly be nice if I could have it above the height of the top plate.

 

[pattenp]

I would put in a stiffener plate or whats called a strongback on the inside of the wall where the ledger will attach. You nail a 2X4 across the studs and lay a 2X8 flat and nail it to the 2X4. Here's a picture, envision the joist in the picture as the wall studs.

Edit: To prevent hinging at the top plate you could use a wider cleat than a 2X4, such as a 2X6 and nail it right over the 2 top plates and then nail the 2X8 flat on top. The strongback doesn't have to be where the ledger attaches, it can be lower down the wall.

 

[Zeke]

^^^^ That'll work!

 

[GYPSY400]

Subscribed! I'm planning the same addition to my garage


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[srmofo]

Im kinda worried about your roof pitch on the lean to.Thats 30 to 40 inches of drop, and if you start at 8' its not going to be much of an area.

Id suggest going as high as you can and lowering the pitch some.

Also make sure the trusses of the garage are triangulated with a 2x4 from the peak of the garage, across several trusses, downward towards the eave. Its standard code now, but depending on the age of yours it may not be done. Its done to prevent the racking or hinging you are talking about. Like this

 

[HotwheelsYJ]

I would not build it as a lean to. You lose to much head room because you have to start lower than your lowest roof line & its hinged off of the existing wall. Also, the most you gain is about 12x24 wide
Based off your 24x24, I would just extend your existing roof line & go as far out as you have lumber for

 

[JakeKohl]

I would not build it as a lean to. You lose to much head room because you have to start lower than your lowest roof line & its hinged off of the existing wall. Also, the most you gain is about 12x24 wide
Based off your 24x24, I would just extend your existing roof line & go as far out as you have lumber for

^THIS^....a couple more bucks but a whole lot more accessible, convenient, and better looking.

 

[Nick_Wa]

Subscribed! I'm planning the same addition to my garage


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Awesome, wish I had nice high ceilings like you!

Im kinda worried about your roof pitch on the lean to.Thats 30 to 40 inches of drop, and if you start at 8' its not going to be much of an area.

Id suggest going as high as you can and lowering the pitch some.

Also make sure the trusses of the garage are triangulated with a 2x4 from the peak of the garage, across several trusses, downward towards the eave. Its standard code now, but depending on the age of yours it may not be done. Its done to prevent the racking or hinging you are talking about. Like this

I really like that, looks like it would really help stiffen things up. I need to clean out the rafters in my garage (previous owner stored a lot of old/extra house materials up there) and assess what type of bracing is currently in place.

I agree on the height thing, if I can stiffen and secure everything up such that I can attach the lean-to a bit higher up (over the top plates), it should allow me to have 6'6-7' outside wall height. That would be sufficient for me. If I go with metal roofing too, I think I can knock the slope down a bit due to the snow being able to come off easier.

I would not build it as a lean to. You lose to much head room because you have to start lower than your lowest roof line & its hinged off of the existing wall. Also, the most you gain is about 12x24 wide
Based off your 24x24, I would just extend your existing roof line & go as far out as you have lumber for

For my needs, the 24x24 is sufficient. However, I have a few riding mowers and snowmobiles, 4-wheeler, motorcycle, etc. and if I could move these out back into a lean-to, that would free up the one whole bay. I would tarp in the sides for this season and next year, pour a pad and build some walls with both exterior and garage access.

I also have a 7'x10' garden shed for shovels and other non-power yard equipment.

 

[Kevin54]

You can go above the top plate. What you want to make very sure of is your flashing. You will want to cut a line through you sheeting above your ledger board, so you can get flashing in behind. Or if you are planning on residing the gable above the plate, you can put the flashing on, then side over it. If you plan on closing it in later, you don't want any leaks.

I was going to put a lean to on the gable end of my garage, but the more I look at it, I think I will pick up a few trusses and add a roof the same direction as I have now, only drop it just a tad lower than the existing roof. I'm only building a 6' x 24' bumpout though.

 

[captain14]

I will follow this thread since I was to do the same with the rear of my single. Headroom is a concern since I am tall and there is is a man door there.

Roof material question shingles or roll roofing? What about the plastic panels to let some light in?

I am mainly looking to keep the weather off the door since it faces north and gets the brunt of the rain, sleet and snow.

 

[Nick_Wa]

You can go above the top plate. What you want to make very sure of is your flashing. You will want to cut a line through you sheeting above your ledger board, so you can get flashing in behind. Or if you are planning on residing the gable above the plate, you can put the flashing on, then side over it. If you plan on closing it in later, you don't want any leaks.

I was going to put a lean to on the gable end of my garage, but the more I look at it, I think I will pick up a few trusses and add a roof the same direction as I have now, only drop it just a tad lower than the existing roof. I'm only building a 6' x 24' bumpout though.

How is construction done if the trusses will be lower? I just can't picture that off the top of my head where it ties into the existing structure.

 

[galianowu]

I would just extend your existing roof line & go as far out as you have lumber for

 

[Kevin54]

How is construction done if the trusses will be lower? I just can't picture that off the top of my head where it ties into the existing structure.

Take a look at this. I think this is how I am going to do mine. If the bumpout is narrower than the garage, the truss will fall underneath the overhand of the garage. My garage is 28' deep, but my bumpout will be 24' deep. So if I leave the top plates the same height, a 24' truss will come in under my 28' existing trusses. http://www.familyhandyman.com/garag...age-storage-with-a-bump-out-addition/view-all

Also most lumber yards carry a 24' truss as a standard stock item. In your case, you could build your bump-out at 20' in depth, and you should be able to use a 20' truss with a 1' overhang. Then keep your extra boards back for wall studs when you get to the point of pouring your floor.

 

[Nick_Wa]

Take a look at this. I think this is how I am going to do mine. If the bumpout is narrower than the garage, the truss will fall underneath the overhand of the garage. My garage is 28' deep, but my bumpout will be 24' deep. So if I leave the top plates the same height, a 24' truss will come in under my 28' existing trusses. http://www.familyhandyman.com/garag...age-storage-with-a-bump-out-addition/view-all

Ok that is much clearer, do you plan to pour a pad or do wood floor as they have done there?

 

[Kevin54]

I would just extend your existing roof line & go as far out as you have lumber for

The bad thing about extending an existing roof line out is that you then have to strip shingles and the plywood, or OSB roof sheeting off to properly tie things in. If a person is planning on re-roofing the entire main structure, then that is the time to do it. But if money is tight, and you can sacrifice a couple of feet in depth, then you can drop down under the eave of the main structure, and not have to get into the roof of the main structure.

 

[GYPSY400]

Any update on this project?

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