Gable End Trusses/ Over hang?

[karoc]

Good morning GJ, wondering about how to go about my 12” overhang for gable ends. I have my three gable end trusses screwed together so that I can notch the top chords for 2x4 at same time. My plan is to lay 2x4 flat and notch for it 1.5” extend it out 10.5” for overhang. The other end will run into next truss which be 24”OC. That end will be screwed to that truss. Next will be 2x4 that be vertical (I guess that’s correct) so that 3/8 plywood can be nailed to for enclosing gable end.
My question is, does this sound correct on how to frame the overhang?

 

[mike93lx]

Your trusses are designed for notching? Usually one would use a drop truss to create the space for the overhang framing, afaik

 

[ncornilsen]

What you designed is how my house was framed. The only notched truss was the gable truss that had full bearing on the wall below.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Usually they just hang the fascia off the free floating plywood, and call it good. What you're doing is above and beyond. It'll be fine. Actually it'll be better than fine. The only way it could be better, was if you had a drop truss and used vertical 2 by back to the previous truss.

 

[Toolfool]

The 2x4 on the flat is the only notch made in the top cord of the truss. And I have never used 3/8" plywood for any exterior coverage.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Yes, you are correct. The flat 2x4 cantilevers out to carry the fascia on the outer end and returns inward to the first standard truss which it's nailed to. This is the typical design in California.
If I understand you correctly, the 2x4 on edge is for creating a soffit (enclosed eves) on your overhangs. That being so, the 2x4 will then match the height of the tails on the standard trusses.

 

[larry4406]

At the day job, we just have the framer build a ladder system and nail it to the plywood sheathed end gable. The roof sheathing then overlaps the soffit framing.

I would prefer to do it like this “outlooker” method which uses a dropped gable (ignore red markups in internet photo).

 

[Michigan Mike]

For a overhang of only 12" the method Kay references will work just fine. I worked as a residential carpenter for much of my younger life here in Michigan and this was the standard. Over 12" you need the outlooks. If you leave out every other sheet of plywood as you sheet the roof this allows you to snap a chalk line to keep the gable end truss straight. You snap the line from the ridge to the plate line and then nail the truss to the line. You do the same for the rake let the plywood run wild snap your line cut the plywood to the line and nail the rake to the plywood.

 

[jack stand]

Your method is fine, notching the gable end truss is what used to be done. Then in a "production" environment with many hands and a teleboon lift
building a "ladder" and nailing it directly over the sheathing of the end truss became normal. Everything could be cut and assembled on the ground. Often the bulk of the overhaul got nailed on the truss while it's still on the ground. A couple of pounds didn't bother the crain and you'd just finish the lower part and build the returns.
If you happen to be installing a metal roof on purlins, you simply run the purlins long then snap a line and trim the ends.

 

[karoc]

Thanks guys, thanks for pic Larry, I see what I should have done in beginning

 

[u2slow]

At the day job, we just have the framer build a ladder system and nail it to the plywood sheathed end gable. The roof sheathing then overlaps the soffit framing.

I would prefer to do it like this “outlooker” method which uses a dropped gable (ignore red markups in internet photo).

That's how my shop was done. 24" overhangs on the gable ends. I believe the drop trusses were part of the truss order.

 

[larry4406]

Your method is fine, notching the gable end truss is what used to be done. Then in a "production" environment with many hands and a teleboon lift
building a "ladder" and nailing it directly over the sheathing of the end truss became normal. Everything could be cut and assembled on the ground. Often the bulk of the overhaul got nailed on the truss while it's still on the ground. A couple of pounds didn't bother the crain and you'd just finish the lower part and build the returns.
If you happen to be installing a metal roof on purlins, you simply run the purlins long then snap a line and trim the ends.

That is how we do it - crane the gable fully sheathed with the soffit built on the ground where its easy and avoids ladder work. When the roof is then sheathed, we try to bring the sheathing back a minimum of one truss bay but preferably two and the roof sheathing is staggered.

Link to similar thread with pictures of what we do.

Overhang on truss roof

Hi All Just finalizing plans on my 24x24 detached garage. I'm using scissor trusses (4/12 over 2/12) for the inside trusses and gable end trusses. I know I can't notch into the trusses for the lookouts (like you can with rafters). My overhang will be 1 foot. I was going to order dropped end...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[firebirdparts]

If you notch it over the verticals (if it's a real end truss) then i don't see a problem. Your sketching there is not over the vertical members. If you hang, let's say a 2x6 barge rafter out there, you don't need very many 2 by 4's or generally much strength to hold that up. 12 inches is not very far. It's not like you need 2 by 4's sticking out there on 16 inch centers. I don't know an easy way to figure out exactly what you need, but I'm just saying not much. If you don't want to hang a real rafter, then sure, put enough 2 by 4's to satisfy yourself that the facia will be cosmetically straight.

If you didn't order a real end truss, notch it over the connections.

 

[CraigStu]

Our SIL's and our house built by the same builder, put the trusses up and built ladders from 2x4s. Nailed the ladders to outside surface of the trusses and ran the plywood sheathing out to the outside of the ladders. I think for a larger overhang other methods would be better but for 12inch overhangs the ladders work fine.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

I did "ladders" on my garage build with 24" overhangs.
Good quality construction screws used and roof sheeting installed properly and they will never go anywhere!

I wanted to add the picture of the other end of my build but didn’t have any. This is where we had to “marry” the build to the house, so not as clean but you get the idea.

 

[karoc]

If you notch it over the verticals (if it's a real end truss) then i don't see a problem. Your sketching there is not over the vertical members. If you hang, let's say a 2x6 barge rafter out there, you don't need very many 2 by 4's or generally much strength to hold that up. 12 inches is not very far. It's not like you need 2 by 4's sticking out there on 16 inch centers. I don't know an easy way to figure out exactly what you need, but I'm just saying not much. If you don't want to hang a real rafter, then sure, put enough 2 by 4's to satisfy yourself that the facia will be cosmetically straight.

If you didn't order a real end truss, notch it over the connections.

I pick 12” which will put roof at 33’ long, which will be 11 sheets of metal just to even it out
Thanks for pics, that helps me understand how go about it better

 

[billconner]

The ladder probably works fine in Texas but here, with 60 psf snow load, I prefer outriggers and dropped gable framing.

 

[firebirdparts]

I did "ladders" on my garage build with 24" overhangs.
Good quality construction screws used and roof sheeting installed properly and they will never go anywhere!

I wanted to add the picture of the other end of my build but didn’t have any. This is where we had to “marry” the build to the house, so not as clean but you get the idea.

We did that on my brother's house and also had some threaded rod in there to pull it up tight and you don't want to run the threaded rod level. With that, the ladder doesn't need many steps, and it'll hold a lot. Of course the plywood alone would hold a whole lot just by itself.

 

[rayra]

I don't see anybody pointing it out, but cutting 2/3 thru the depth of the truss board is a terrible idea.

Seconding the ladder / box framing attached to the exterior face of the end truss .

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I don't see anybody pointing it out, but cutting 2/3 thru the depth of the truss board is a terrible idea.

Seconding the ladder / box framing attached to the exterior face of the end truss .

Negative! You install the outlookers (lookouts) @ 32" o/c directly over the gable fill studs, so your load has direct bearing. Houses in California have been framed this way for MANY years.
Structurally, I believe the 'ladder' idea is not a good design as it relies on the nails not withdrawing and cantilevered plywood / OSB. Ask any structural engineer.

 

[CraigStu]

Tyrant I see your point for sure. But when I asked the builder how that worked he said; 1- this is one place they definitely use ring nails and 2- they only do it w/ 12 and once in a while a max of 15 wide. The 12in are pretty much standard for this builder and they have been doing it this way for 15+ years.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I have to assume with the "ladder" style barge, the eves (bottom of ladder) are enclosed with siding of some sort. With open eves, the overhang is sheeted with 'starter board' (1x8 ship lap) so it looks finished from below, hence the 'outlooker' design as the plywood / OSB does not cantilever over the gable end truss / rafter to assist in supporting the fascia.