Galvanized pipe for compressor run?

[engineer2]

If you use black iron pipe or galvanized you should have a filter bowl at each point of use.
Some lubricated compressors have enough blowby so oil in the pipes will help slow the corrosion caused by water in the lines. Unless you have an air dryer, water in the lines will generally be saturated with water (100% humidity) unless outdoor dewpoints are extremely low (<20°F or so). You have to look at what you can afford:

Ideal setup: compressor>air dryer with water drain>filter>copper lines.

Common home setup: compressor>aftercooler with water drain>iron pipe>filters

What we all start out with: compressor>filter>rubber hose

 

[sberry]

Air service is hard to pre engineer to get it just right. Some of it can be trial and error. I got some ok and some wrong and some right. Eventually try to modify it to right.
I had some general vision when I started, found out I couldn't afford all the great ideas and in the end glad I didn't as things eventually found their own level and may been stuck with a lot I was unwilling to move off, most would have been catchers, needed more shelves, less fixed benches, needed to conserve running wall space.
Most of these were concepts I had seen from other shops to some extent but the learning curve is so hi and most people don't get to do it along enough to get good.
I am getting ready to make a couple changes now and the new wont be so busy as when I did it originally. There is a threshold between what I want and what I need. I have found out with a lot of utilities the need is a lot easier to meet.

 

[Orange65]

I see discussion on the proper materials for air lines and how to set them up all the time here. Am I the only one that just uses a rubber air hose off the compressor? Even with my new bigger shop, I don't see the costs associated with plumbing the whole shop to be worth the small benefit. Maybe its just me.

 

[soapii]

I did my whole shop in galvanized to prevent rust in the air lines. I also used galvanized at my old house for the air lines. No issues at all in 12 years.

--Joe

 

[yaidunno]

I see discussion on the proper materials for air lines and how to set them up all the time here. Am I the only one that just uses a rubber air hose off the compressor? Even with my new bigger shop, I don't see the costs associated with plumbing the whole shop to be worth the small benefit. Maybe its just me.

It depends on a lot of factors really. How big is your shop? If its a 20x20, then yes, plumbing hard pipe is probably not in your best interest. Hoses do present a tripping hazard. The longer the hose, the more that problem increases. The pipes also offer a means for the air to cool off and drop its moisture (if needed) before getting to your tool. There is also the added benefit of increased system volume, depending on pipe size and amount.

 

[Revin]

How about just running a couple of 50' air compressor HOSE??
Nice piece of copper to start the run, then switch over to the hose through the rafters and down to the outlets with more copper. So you can cut in filters and such.
just askin...

 

[Radical540]

How about just running a couple of 50' air compressor HOSE??
Nice piece of copper to start the run, then switch over to the hose through the rafters and down to the outlets with more copper. So you can cut in filters and such.
just askin...

You took the words out if my mouth.
20 yrs ago I did my first garage in copper..when it was cheap. This thread has now reminded me that I need to do my current garage. What about PEX?
20 yrs ago a friend did his garage using "hose", & guess what...20 yrs later it's still fine! Sometimes I think we tend to go over kill on things and lose sense of common sense.

 

[gc427]

You can use regular thin EMT for air or water.
Copper elbows and fittings solder right on.
I know this guy that owns a local bar.
He is really cheap.
He plumbed the bathrooms with 1/2" thin EMT
and soldered on copper fittings. Still there and
that was over 20 years ago.
-Doozer

I know a guy that heats his bath water with a toaster and sometimes a heat gun.

I'd like to see pics of this mish mash plumbing job.

Just because you CAN do something doesn't mean that you SHOULD do it.

 

[mike_dmt]

These threads spin to nonsense fast.

Get a couple sticks of 1/2 black pipe and a few simple fittings to make a manifold to get to where you need it. Ball valve after the comp and then a hose to the pipe. I like to stick with 1/2 where I can, makes it so easy to fit and least use of fittings.

Wow. Thanks for that..... Maybe these products are nonsense.. I don't know.

http://www.rockler.com/rapidair-max...Pjn0u_q67UCFYdT4AodB0kAWA&avad=55963_b9f7feed


Or maybe some of this?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...52&mtype=b&storeId=6970&langId=-1&type=search

 

[crooklyn]

So I'm going to be using the galvanized pipe. I was able to purchase some from work for cheap and I talked to one of the instrument techs and he said that the galvanized pipe we have is rate for 500psi working pressure.
No issues here

 

[crooklyn]

Here it installed

 

[firworks]

"'Kipedia said vulcanized was the way to go. But I dang old knew better. Galvanized, galvanized, galvanized, that's what I always say!"

That install looks pretty nice and clean. Did you also have a cheap source for all the Unistrut? I need to redo the hangers for my rigid dryer line and that actually looks like a nice option but I'm seeing the Unistrut for crazy expensive prices. I can see that they make OD pipe hangers for 4". Also, do you need the ball-valves above and below each port? What advantage does that get you?

EDIT: I was having a search-breakdown or something. I'm finding Unistrut for dirt cheap at Menard's now... Not sure what I was doing before.

 

[crooklyn]

"'Kipedia said vulcanized was the way to go. But I dang old knew better. Galvanized, galvanized, galvanized, that's what I always say!"

That install looks pretty nice and clean. Did you also have a cheap source for all the Unistrut? I need to redo the hangers for my rigid dryer line and that actually looks like a nice option but I'm seeing the Unistrut for crazy expensive prices. I can see that they make OD pipe hangers for 4". Also, do you need the ball-valves above and below each port? What advantage does that get you?

EDIT: I was having a search-breakdown or something. I'm finding Unistrut for dirt cheap at Menard's now... Not sure what I was doing before.

Thanks man!
The unistrut was $14 for 10ft 1 5/8x 1 5/8. Its the galvanized strut. depending on the metal it can be expensive. I was able to get it at a local electrical wholesale company, like Eecol.
I used the Cobra clamps (aka "P" clamps) to hold the pipe.
As for the Ball valves I did it this way so I can isolate each run and also for blowing down to get rid of moisture instead of using filters etc.

Over kill? YES

 

[bandaidmd]

For those who say just use a hose. If you run pipe the pipe acts a a cooler then when you have a water separator at the end of your pipe it will actually remove some water. Air Straight out of hot compressor thru a hose laying on a cold floor will always deliver moisture.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[Hammbone83]

Are some of you actually using electrical EMT for running air lines? Is it possible that some of the responses to this thread are referring to the electrical lines for the air compressors. I would never dream of using non-pressure rated tubing for air lines. That's what EMT is isn't it? Please clarify me if I am wrong.

Why not? If your a stickler for the rules, then all you have to do is hydro test the pipes to 1.5 times the working pressure. Im a pipe welder in the oil field for goin on 20 years and to get the pressure rating your looking for is called an MTR. Emt doesn’t have a MTR because it’s usually not purchased because the suppliers assume that the pipe is for electrical, so the purchase of an MTR is not necessary, and overkill. To get an MTR the contractor or client purchases an MTR, for NDE purposes(pressure ratings all that stuff). Now any welded seam pipe or seamless tube has a pressure rating regardless if it’s stamped or not. Why not suggest someone hydro test it and once you’ve done that, then the thin emt has an official pressure rating! No need for any crazy expensive spending unless it’s necessary. Just remeber this when I tell you, that when you have brand new material it doesn’t matter what it is. Only 1 form of nde is required, none specific, just one. So 99% of the time especially on low pressure items such as compressed air, a hydro to 1.5 times mawp is plenty by the law.