Galvanized Steel Workshops,Anbody???
- Thread starter Midget74SC
- Start date
Grumpy365
Well-known member
I am planning on it.
I want a Modified arch 40' X 60' with roof vent and Overhead doors on each end.
(I am trying to get the money together for the foundation).
I think I am going to do the wall chanel bolted to the foundation instead or pouring the curb in the foundation.
I want a Modified arch 40' X 60' with roof vent and Overhead doors on each end.
(I am trying to get the money together for the foundation).
I think I am going to do the wall chanel bolted to the foundation instead or pouring the curb in the foundation.
OP
Midget74SC
Member
Grumpy365,
Hi, Do they come with roof vents. I was checking a couple of company and all they have was like a panel skylites.
Thanks..
Hi, Do they come with roof vents. I was checking a couple of company and all they have was like a panel skylites.
Thanks..
Grumpy365
Well-known member
Ya,
I got 2 quoted on mine.
I got 2 quoted on mine.
gfd_703
Well-known member
A few of those up around here. The guys I have talked to that put them up themselves say the first few pieces are the hardest to put up. I think they refereed to them as trying to stand up a wet noodle. They seem to hold up well but seem difficult to insulate and finish the inside.
Ign
Well-known member
Sure, I had an old-school Behlen from the '80's. It had no framwork whatsoever, the heavily corrugated panels were the structure, but it was not a quonset style. No real complaints, but yeah, hard to insulate. I painted the interior white as the old galvanization had dulled considerably.
I surface-mounted all my electric and air inside, but that meant sheetmetal screws into the building. Not really a problem but they poke out to the outside, and eventually you feel like you're turning the building into swiss cheese. Another reason to finish the inside.
I surface-mounted all my electric and air inside, but that meant sheetmetal screws into the building. Not really a problem but they poke out to the outside, and eventually you feel like you're turning the building into swiss cheese. Another reason to finish the inside.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
kbkna
Well-known member
I had an older PIONEER brand building. Had a MILLION NUTS AND BOLTS! The troubles I had were I did not pour they " key ways " for the side walls and had leaking problems. After 5 yars the rubber on the bolts dried out and had leaking also. Cured that with Elastoseal but took a long time to do each bolt. My current building is a clearspan steel building and I really like it more. Sidewall height is not a problem.Good luck in your choice.
I just finished (almost) a 30x50x16 SteelMaster 'A' building.
I have two 10x10 roll-up doors on one end, with a 36" personnel door on each end. 3 Fiberglass light panels (work well - no lights required during the day).
I used the Industrial Base Plate connectors, makes the slab easy (no notch) and assembly is much easier. Used 100 or so 5/8" x 8.5" Red-Head anchors.
For a building this size you need 4-6 guys to help, 2 or 3 sets of scaffolding and lots of 16' long 2x6's to brace the peak of every other arch (to hold/adjust the building shape) while it is being assembled. This step is VERY important.
Since I had 4 to 5 thousand bolts and serrated flange nuts (no square nuts any more - a good thing) we used impact drivers (Makita #6952's) to bolt the building together. One worker used a wrench to hold the nut, while another uses the impact driver to spin the bolt (and attached washer). You can tell when its tightened correctly as the sealing washer will slightly bulge out from the bolt head.
You also need 4 or so alignment punches to help align the bolt holes between panels.
It took 6 of us 4 weekends to put up the building.
View media item 5276
I have two 10x10 roll-up doors on one end, with a 36" personnel door on each end. 3 Fiberglass light panels (work well - no lights required during the day).
I used the Industrial Base Plate connectors, makes the slab easy (no notch) and assembly is much easier. Used 100 or so 5/8" x 8.5" Red-Head anchors.
For a building this size you need 4-6 guys to help, 2 or 3 sets of scaffolding and lots of 16' long 2x6's to brace the peak of every other arch (to hold/adjust the building shape) while it is being assembled. This step is VERY important.
Since I had 4 to 5 thousand bolts and serrated flange nuts (no square nuts any more - a good thing) we used impact drivers (Makita #6952's) to bolt the building together. One worker used a wrench to hold the nut, while another uses the impact driver to spin the bolt (and attached washer). You can tell when its tightened correctly as the sealing washer will slightly bulge out from the bolt head.
You also need 4 or so alignment punches to help align the bolt holes between panels.
It took 6 of us 4 weekends to put up the building.
View media item 5276
Last edited:
More pics in my Album....http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=654
OP
Midget74SC
Member
Grumpy365,Ign,Charles (in GA.),gfd 703 ,kbkna, stevepsd,
Thank You guys for all the input and Info. Awesome pictures stevepsd. Did you insulate the inside. Where is this building built at.
Charles(in GA): Thank's for link. That's an awesome pictures there.
Thank's again to all.
Thank You guys for all the input and Info. Awesome pictures stevepsd. Did you insulate the inside. Where is this building built at.
Charles(in GA): Thank's for link. That's an awesome pictures there.
Thank's again to all.
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Midget74SC,
The building is located in the upper Mojave Desert of California (Kern County). It's 110F+ here today. I have no insulation in the building, but it's not to bad inside, especially with adequate ventilation, it's hovering around 90F.
As soon as I run my water lines, I will plumb in a evaporative cooler.
The actual metal shell is Energy-Star rated for solar reflectance http://www.steelmasterusa.com/products/green-buildings according to the manufacturer.
The building is located in the upper Mojave Desert of California (Kern County). It's 110F+ here today. I have no insulation in the building, but it's not to bad inside, especially with adequate ventilation, it's hovering around 90F.
As soon as I run my water lines, I will plumb in a evaporative cooler.
The actual metal shell is Energy-Star rated for solar reflectance http://www.steelmasterusa.com/products/green-buildings according to the manufacturer.
OP
Midget74SC
Member
stevepsd,
Thank's for the info. You are located on the dry heat. During my Military days, I was stationed on that part of the country and we used those swamp coolers and they work real well. After retiring from the Military (Navy) I chose to retire in South Carolina where the better half is from and where its humid as heck. So that means if I go your route, I have to have a very real good ventilation,Insulation and AC to work during summer time
in the workshop.
Thank's again.
Thank's for the info. You are located on the dry heat. During my Military days, I was stationed on that part of the country and we used those swamp coolers and they work real well. After retiring from the Military (Navy) I chose to retire in South Carolina where the better half is from and where its humid as heck. So that means if I go your route, I have to have a very real good ventilation,Insulation and AC to work during summer time
in the workshop.
Thank's again.
autoclassicnut
Well-known member
Got any updates????
Knuckles
Member
Building a 40x50 clear span arch wall myself now...... Doesn't seem to be a ton of interest in these, even though they have been around a long time. So.... I won't beat a dead horse; these buildings have challenges, to be sure, but they have advantages also...... If anyone is interested in how I addressed the pros and cons, I will be more than happy to tell of my solutions to this building's shortcomings, and how to take advantage of it's strong points ( I have pics
)! Caveat: I'm not a builder, I'm a millwright...... we tend to do what has to be done to get the job done; Yes, I know every formula, every calculation, and every code in the health and safety manual. If I ignore them, it's because I have studied, and given careful thought to their importance, then decided if they were relevant, in my build. Chances are, I know what's best for me; safety nazis will be flamed, no quarter given. You've been warned
)! Caveat: I'm not a builder, I'm a millwright...... we tend to do what has to be done to get the job done; Yes, I know every formula, every calculation, and every code in the health and safety manual. If I ignore them, it's because I have studied, and given careful thought to their importance, then decided if they were relevant, in my build. Chances are, I know what's best for me; safety nazis will be flamed, no quarter given. You've been warned
Building a 40x50 clear span arch wall myself now...... Doesn't seem to be a ton of interest in these, even though they have been around a long time. So.... I won't beat a dead horse; these buildings have challenges, to be sure, but they have advantages also...... If anyone is interested in how I addressed the pros and cons, I will be more than happy to tell of my solutions to this building's shortcomings, and how to take advantage of it's strong points ( I have pics
)! Caveat: I'm not a builder, I'm a millwright...... we tend to do what has to be done to get the job done; Yes, I know every formula, every calculation, and every code in the health and safety manual. If I ignore them, it's because I have studied, and given careful thought to their importance, then decided if they were relevant, in my build. Chances are, I know what's best for me; safety nazis will be flamed, no quarter given. You've been warned
OK tell it like it is
