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Gambrel Roof Design

Medeek

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Jan 13, 2013
Messages
550
Location
Copalis Beach, WA
Started looking at some different gambrel style roofs and barns and trying to determine what is the best pitch combination for the classic barn look. Of course there are an number infinite combination but I've created this little matrix below to fuel some thought, any ideas or suggestions on what is the best looking barn roof out there? Pictures would be good too.

GAMBREL_STUDY.jpg


Much more legible PDF can be found here:

http://design.medeek.com/resources/truss/PDF/GAMBREL_STUDY.pdf
 
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7th Kahuna

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Los Angeles, CA
I have several barn cross sections from 1911 if you are interested. One is a double gambrel which 'gives the maximum amount of hay storage space with the minimum expense for roofing'.
 

Tscott

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Oct 17, 2006
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Location
Keystone Heights, FL.
I designed our current house, and to get the most space possible in the bonus room over the house garage, I used a gambrel in that area. It turned out awesome and I am so glad I did it. I kind of just eyeballed the angle when I drew it up in CAD. I personally lean towards a gambrel with very steep sides and a flatter top to maximize the volume. I added a few pics of the house while we built that may help give you some perspective.


Bonus Room Framing.jpg

view from the front.jpg

Tom
 

kmacht

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Apr 12, 2010
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Connecticut
Here is a picture of mine. The upper section has a 3.5:12 pitch and the lower section has a 16:12 pitch.

Keith
 

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Medeek

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Jan 13, 2013
Messages
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Location
Copalis Beach, WA
I designed our current house, and to get the most space possible in the bonus room over the house garage, I used a gambrel in that area. It turned out awesome and I am so glad I did it. I kind of just eyeballed the angle when I drew it up in CAD. I personally lean towards a gambrel with very steep sides and a flatter top to maximize the volume. I added a few pics of the house while we built that may help give you some perspective.


Tom

Do you mind me asking what your pitches are on the top chords? Also out of curiousity what are you spanning, it looks like your bottom chord is some sort of TJI or built up member but I can't tell. The depth looks to be at least 10-12 inches. I'm trying to span 28' feet (clearspan, no internal columns or internal bearing walls) and possibly 30' feet if I can do it.

I like the larger space the square look provides, you definately have a point there. I'm assuming these are manufactured trusses.
 
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Medeek

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Copalis Beach, WA
My taste is towards the 6/12 - 12/6, the 5/12 -12/5 is a bit boxy IMO but I can see it would have more space.

I had to actually draw up the right elevation since it is really hard to visualize what the shape will look like without the rest of the building in the picture:

GAMBREL_STUDY2.jpg


GAMBREL_STUDY3.jpg


PDF here for those who don't feel like damaging their eyes trying to decipher the microscript:

http://design.medeek.com/resources/truss/PDF/GAMBREL_STUDY2.pdf
http://design.medeek.com/resources/truss/PDF/GAMBREL_STUDY3.pdf


Thoughts?

Added the one with the 7/12 pitch after looking at some of the pictures below. It's amazing how much a minor tweak in the pitch of one of the gambrel legs can change the look of this thing.
 
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Tscott

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Oct 17, 2006
Messages
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Keystone Heights, FL.
Do you mind me asking what your pitches are on the top chords? Also out of curiousity what are you spanning, it looks like your bottom chord is some sort of TJI or built up member but I can't tell. The depth looks to be at least 10-12 inches. I'm trying to span 28' feet (clearspan, no internal columns or internal bearing walls) and possibly 30' feet if I can do it.

I like the larger space the square look provides, you definately have a point there. I'm assuming these are manufactured trusses.

I'll try to pull the plans out this weekend. Yes, the trusses were all manufactured and delivered. I will also note that living in Florida we have no snow loading requirements so you may be forced to have a steeper pitch than I due to possible loading limitations.

Tom
 

milner351

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Sep 14, 2010
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205
Location
SE Michigan
I have a 30x40 with a gambrel style roof - I don't believe I have the original blue prints unfortunately, I have not had the time to get behind the knee walls in the finished up stairs to determine any specifics on the trusses.

I am interested in making the building longer with an addition of scissor trusses so I can move my 2 post hoist over from my old pole barn, so I'm very interested in truss specifics in this design.

What design software are you using?
 
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Medeek

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Copalis Beach, WA
I have several barn cross sections from 1911 if you are interested. One is a double gambrel which 'gives the maximum amount of hay storage space with the minimum expense for roofing'.

What is a double gambrel? I would be interested in looking at these designs/cross section.
 

gpalmer77

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Aug 15, 2012
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515
Location
Mokena IL
I designed our current house, and to get the most space possible in the bonus room over the house garage, I used a gambrel in that area. It turned out awesome and I am so glad I did it. I kind of just eyeballed the angle when I drew it up in CAD. I personally lean towards a gambrel with very steep sides and a flatter top to maximize the volume. I added a few pics of the house while we built that may help give you some perspective.


Bonus Room Framing.jpg

view from the front.jpg

Tom

Mine is very similar in look to this, I too prefer the flatter/steeper look. Think mine is 12/3 and 2.5/12.
 
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Medeek

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Jan 13, 2013
Messages
550
Location
Copalis Beach, WA
I have a 30x40 with a gambrel style roof - I don't believe I have the original blue prints unfortunately, I have not had the time to get behind the knee walls in the finished up stairs to determine any specifics on the trusses.

I am interested in making the building longer with an addition of scissor trusses so I can move my 2 post hoist over from my old pole barn, so I'm very interested in truss specifics in this design.

What design software are you using?

I'm currently using Autocad 2006. I've used Autocad 2012 and even 2013 (trial copy) but I've found that the older versions pretty much do everything I need and they run light and fast on an Window XP machine so I downgraded. I got a new machine last year and I lasted about 2 days on Windows 7 before wiping the hard drive and reinstalling with Windows XP. Windows 7 may have a few more things to offer to some users but for me XP is lighter, faster less of a resource hog and still the best OS out there for a serious user.

For 3D I've used sketchup but I've also got an older copy of Solidworks that I use as well. I've found that the newer the software the more bloated it tends to be and even a fast computer seems slow.

If you don't want to pay out the big dollars for Autocad I suggest a program called Draftsight made by Dassault that is just as good and free.

My favorite font for drawings, so far, is a free one called Flux. My only problem with this font is that it is missing the degree symbol. So I'm looking for a replacement that looks the same but not missing important characters, any suggestions?
 
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Ron Heberle

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Sep 30, 2011
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That looks like one of the Amish built ones from near Gap, Pa? If so how do you like it, thanks?
 

DonB

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May 28, 2011
Messages
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Location
Wilton, NY
I'm building a 32x40 barn with a gambrel roof. I built, stood up, and moved the trusses into position. No crane was used. The trusses were assembled from 2x4 and 2x6 material with 1/2'' plywood gussets on the second floor of the barn. The plans were from Barn Plans, they have a really neat website:
http://www.barnplans.com/index.php



The standing seam roof metal was professionally installed this past January. If there is interest I'll start a build thread, I have lots of photos. This is the first structure I've ever built in my 62 years.
Don
 

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Medeek

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Jan 13, 2013
Messages
550
Location
Copalis Beach, WA
I'm building a 32x40 barn with a gambrel roof. I built, stood up, and moved the trusses into position. No crane was used. The trusses were assembled from 2x4 and 2x6 material with 1/2'' plywood gussets on the second floor of the barn. The plans were from Barn Plans, they have a really neat website:
http://www.barnplans.com/index.php



The standing seam roof metal was professionally installed this past January. If there is interest I'll start a build thread, I have lots of photos. This is the first structure I've ever built in my 62 years.
Don

Very nice, you really do need to start a thread with all your photos and every step documented. Looks to be a really nice build.

I've spent some time on barnplans looking over their plans and talked with the owner about his view on what the optimal gambrel shape is, he is very opinionated on the matter. I've also chatted with some others who have built their plans with their site built trusses.

Did you have any problems with your local building dept. on giving you a green light on the site built trusses? Did you need an engineer's stamp on them for your permit? Someone I spoke with said something about not being able to get anyone in his county to review the trusses and give him an approval, something about them being non-standard as compared to metal plate connected gambrel trusses.

They seem really well built to me, 2x6 on the top chord and 2x4 bottom chords with 2x4 webs. I'm assuming 1/2 Ply for the gussets.
 
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Daniel Dudley

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Sep 4, 2009
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Both of the roofs in post # 6 are within tasteful parameters. So much so that the average person would not notice the difference. The second is a little more delicate, and perhaps old fashioned/traditional looking, but I think either one is great. The first is like a text book picture of a gambrel, and it is the one I would probably use myself, for practical reasons. If I were doing a period addition, I would probably steal the profile from an existing house.

In your case, I think you are on the money as to what you want. At this point you can't go wrong.
 

moonlight_ken

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Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
26
I'm building a 32x40 barn with a gambrel roof. I built, stood up, and moved the trusses into position. No crane was used. The trusses were assembled from 2x4 and 2x6 material with 1/2'' plywood gussets on the second floor of the barn. The plans were from Barn Plans, they have a really neat website:
http://www.barnplans.com/index.php



The standing seam roof metal was professionally installed this past January. If there is interest I'll start a build thread, I have lots of photos. This is the first structure I've ever built in my 62 years.
Don


I also talked with and actually paid for a set of plans from Barnplans for a similar design but did not like the fact that his truss design requires support posts. The tradeoff in his design is that you get a lot more useable space upstairs.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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43,216
Location
SE MI
IMHO, the height of the peak should be 1/2 width being spanned.

Also the upper and lower roof decks should be same length.
 

kert

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May 31, 2009
Messages
371
Location
Franklin, MI
Check out my build. Lower is 15.25:12, upper is 4:12. I wanted at least 4:12 on top so I didn't have to worry about shingles. After that I looked at truss options and picked what was practical for my budget. I had originally drawn up a 12:6, 6:12 design to match another 6:12 pitch on my property, but that would have required a 2-piece truss.
 
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Medeek

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Jan 13, 2013
Messages
550
Location
Copalis Beach, WA
Further refinements of the 7/12 - 12/6 design. I originally liked the more even 6/12 -12/6 but it looked too squatty after comparing it to a higher peaked upper roof deck.

Below is my most current design:

28-APG-TRUSS.jpg


Notice this is clearspan attic truss, so no supports on the main floor required. Also 9ft ceiling and the 17ft attic width is very compelling vs. my usual 12/12 pitch roof.
 
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KELLHAMMER

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Nov 20, 2006
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222
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south eastern pennsylvania
Nate
The steeper lower pitch is more appealing to me and will pull the vertical web closer the the first floor exterior wall, gaining more floor space. I love gambrels, never did one in a truss, always stick framed. But I like the way the truss works for sure.
 

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DonB

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May 28, 2011
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Wilton, NY
Medeek,
Sorry for taking so long to reply.......it's barn building season.

You asked if I had trouble with the local building dept......not really, but it was quite a learning curve with some disappointments as I became educated in the ways of the state and it's mandates to all the communities within. I knew from the onset that I would need the plans to be stamped for here in New York State by a licensed architect. That would have been easy enough as the Barn Plan people said they would send my purchased plans directly to an architect (in PA) who is familiar with the plans and also had a NYS stamp. For a nominal fee they'd stamp each plan sheet. I figured that would be enough and was just about to place my money on the barrel head. Instead I took one more step just to be sure, and it's a good think I took it. So before doing anything else I stopped at the local building inspector's office to chat. I was informed that in NYS it isn't the truss plan that is certified, but rather the trusses themselves. Each and every one of them MUST be certified. So that meant the architect in PA who stamped the plan would need to travel to my barn and look at the trusses and certify them on the spot. That was not likely on my budget.

Then it gets interesting. While doing an internet search for "32x40 barn" in an effort to salvage my project I found Garage Journal and all of you, and you've been like my best friends ever since. The post the search took me to was "32x40 barn/garage build" by JBS in Upstate NY. Turns out JBS was building MY barn! JBS started with the Barn Plans idea but used traditional post and rafter construction instead of trusses. He directed me to an architect in nearby Ballston Spa who helped him change the design. I contacted the same architect and after a short visit he agreed to do the truss calculations, place his NYS stamp on the plans, and come to my nearby farm to inspect the trusses when done. YEAAAAH! The plans were submitted to the town, approved within two days, and the work began.

And perhaps even more interestingly, while out driving my 1919 Ford through the countryside west of here I passed a barn that was not there on my previous trip, probably a year before. I thought, 'Cool, another barn being built!' and continued puttering down the road. About a quarter mile later I realized it was too much like my barn and needed to be looked at a little closer. I turned around and stared up at the barn. Yup, just like mine and the setting perfectly fit the photos JPL posted in his thread! Even better, there was JPL himself playing ball with his kids in the field! I stopped to introduce myself and thank him for being an important part of the path to building my barn.
Don

I promise to get a build thread started soon.
Don
 

Timbo1

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Mar 3, 2014
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Location
NC
Wow, glad I finally stumbled across this thread. I'm in the middle of designing a barn and want to do 36 x 60 Gambrel (preferably a 40x60). My vote is for the 12/6 - 6/12 for aesthetics. I too spoke to Dano at barnplans.com and he was great to talk to. My main concern with their plans is they use two rows of support posts. Considering using one row of posts on the first floor 12' from one wall, then using a 24' floor truss to span the rest. But I love his scissor truss stick built (on site) design.

It's been so frustrating trying to sort it all out. I'd like to stick build a scissor truss on site, save some money and have more space upstairs. Trying to find a truss builder to design a reasonable truss is really hard, they don't like to go over 12' peak to floor so they can truck it down the road. Piggy back is an option, but cost goes up significantly.

I too need them to be engineered, and the structure has to be 120 mph wind. '
How do I go about getting a stick built Gambrel scissor truss design (engineered) with a 40' clear span below?
 

kinigitt

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Sep 21, 2016
Messages
73
Location
Kahnawake, Quebec
Further refinements of the 7/12 - 12/6 design. I originally liked the more even 6/12 -12/6 but it looked too squatty after comparing it to a higher peaked upper roof deck.

Below is my most current design:

28-APG-TRUSS.jpg


Notice this is clearspan attic truss, so no supports on the main floor required. Also 9ft ceiling and the 17ft attic width is very compelling vs. my usual 12/12 pitch roof.

Sorry to bring up an old thread.

I'm planning a detached garage at the moment, and I too am interested in the barn plans trusses.

I'm a complete novice at design and construction, but I'm eager to learn.

I'm looking to build a gambrel roof shop in my yard. 28' wide by 34' long. 10' walls. Side entry for the garage doors (eaves).

I want a lift on one side and a usable loft on the other (hence why I dig the barnplans trusses so much.)

Now, what I'm unsure about is how the loft would be attached and supported if I were to do away with the support posts in the middle of span, per the design.

If I went with engineered trusses or TJI's (correct term?), wouldn't that mess with the way the roof sits on the top plate? Would I have to cut the walls shorter where the loft is to make them the same height all around? I'm just trying to visualize it. Sorry if this is a silly question.

Is there an easier way, using joists and an LVL? What kind of setup would be optimal?

Thanks for any answer. I'm just starting to learn sketchup, and I plan on modelling the building with your software. Kudos! :thumbup:
 

SH7mi

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Feb 3, 2014
Messages
186
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SE Pennsylvania
I am currently building a 20'x24' shed/workshop with a gambrel roof. The upper chord is an 8/12 pitch, the lower is 18/12
 

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TimberMan

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Apr 6, 2024
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Further refinements of the 7/12 - 12/6 design. I originally liked the more even 6/12 -12/6 but it looked too squatty after comparing it to a higher peaked upper roof deck.

Below is my most current design:

28-APG-TRUSS.jpg

Notice this is clearspan attic truss, so no supports on the main floor required. Also 9ft ceiling and the 17ft attic width is very compelling vs. my usual 12/12 pitch roof.
Old Thread but, is this what you ended up going with both in terms of pitch layout and structure? I am in the middle of designing my loft with Gambrel roof as I type for a 26' roof span.

Thanks!
 

Moss

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Dec 21, 2013
Messages
148
Location
Ontario Canada
leaving a comment here about the OP and the Sketchup extension he has been working on for so long. I'm not sure how clear it is here what he's accomplished (I didn't look all through his post history) but the Medeek extensions for Sketchup are incredible and if you are looking to design a building it's unreal how much easier he has made the process. I use the old 2017 SketchUp with the free license and it works great. Search "Medeek Wall" if you aren't familiar.
 
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