Gap between drywall and concrete ?

[Westbank]

I would like to get some feedback regarding the gap to leave between the concrete foundation and the drywall. The code is simply indicating that drywall should not be in contact with concrete but there’s nothing regarding the distance between the concrete and the drywall. I was planning to install a galvanized “L Trim” at the bottom of the drywall so the trim would protect the bottom of the drywall sheets.

But what is the best practice to follow for the gap. Leave ¼” and fill with caulk ?

 

[jabber]

I've always used a few pieces of 1/4" scrap wood cut in little strips to keep the drywall up while you screw it in. And normally you wouldn't caulk it, you put your base board on and caulk the top of the base board to the drywall. The galvanized L trim might be hard to caulk though being that it's so thin.

 

[buddyboy]

they make a vinyl j channel for this, or you can temporarily shim it like jabber suggested or do both.

 

[Kevin54]

I've always used a few pieces of 1/4" scrap wood cut in little strips to keep the drywall up while you screw it in. And normally you wouldn't caulk it, you put your base board on and caulk the top of the base board to the drywall. The galvanized L trim might be hard to caulk though being that it's so thin.

This is the way that my drywall was put up, and that is the way I trim it out. I just looked at my new drywall that was put in my addition, and it looks like they have it 1/2" off of the block. Then when I put my baseboard down, I will set it down to the top of the block, and caulk the top of the baseboard to the drywall. If there is too much variance at the bottom of the baseboard, I will caulk it to the block

 

[James E]

No caulk. Leave a gap and cover the gap with base molding or trim. The gap prevents moisture from wicking up into the drywall from the floor.

 

[Westbank]

I've always used a few pieces of 1/4" scrap wood cut in little strips to keep the drywall up while you screw it in. And normally you wouldn't caulk it, you put your base board on and caulk the top of the base board to the drywall. The galvanized L trim might be hard to caulk though being that it's so thin.

I was not planning to install a baseboard so that’s why I was thinking about installing an L trim at the bottom. If I leave a ¼” and install an L trim (about 1/16” thick) I still have a gap of more than 1/8” at the bottom. I would like to avoid putting caulk in there.

 

[Westbank]

I didn’t know that installing baseboards in a garage was that common. The only issue in my case is that the foundation is 2’ high so the baseboard would be 2’ above the garage floor. Could look a little weird ?

 

[kaymccampbell]

If you use vinyl J channel you will not need a gap or trim. It is paintable. Will not react to the concrete. Makes a nice clean edge finish at the bottom. It's available almost everywhere.

 

[dave*99]

If you use vinyl J channel you will not need a gap or trim. It is paintable. Will not react to the concrete. Makes a nice clean edge finish at the bottom. It's available almost everywhere.

This also worked for me. The vinyl channel is also useful where the sheetrock ends at the sides of the garage doors.

 

[CNGsaves]

Somewhere here on GJ there is build where they used waterproof backerboard on the bottom section all around garage. For ceiling height it worked well so they could use full sheets of drywall above the backboard bottom row.

 

[Kensgarage]

Buy green board and use Hi-Hat
http://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/drywall-framing/furring-channel-hat-channel

 

[rayra]

No caulk. Leave a gap and cover the gap with base molding or trim. The gap prevents moisture from wicking up into the drywall from the floor.

This.
If no baseboard, then just use some paint-stirring sticks or a yardstick as a flat 1/8" spacer when you set your drywall. You just need a no-contact gap to prevent moisture wicking.

 

[Wanna Ride]

This.
If no baseboard, then just use some paint-stirring sticks or a yardstick as a flat 1/8" spacer when you set your drywall. You just need a no-contact gap to prevent moisture wicking.

^^ This. Whenever I'm sheathing a garage wall, I just use a couple strips of the sheathing material (if it's drywall or OSB) to lay on the floor as I place the wall board. Attach the wall board, pull out the strip, move to the next sheet. No caulk.