Gap for barn doors

[Don1357]

I'm building barn doors for my workshop. The entrance is 91" tall by 111.5 wide, or 91" x 55 3/4" each. Obviously even if the frame was perfect that would not leave enough space for play nor weather gasket.

Is a 1/4" gap all around plus between the doors about right? That would make each 90 1/2" x 55 3/8".

 

[isb cornbinder]

Getting the "GAP" right is always important. It is all about aesthetics.
(a set of principles concerned with the nature and appreciation of beauty, especially in art.)

 

[jack stand]

Sounds good but if it was my project I'd make one of the doors the "primary door" that you'd open first, with a "cane bolt" or some other latching mechanism on the other door to hold it closed. In this situation I'd hang this secondary door first and make it the full width , you don't need clearance at the hinge side.
Then hang the primary door. This is the one that you'll need to trim and bevel the mating edge. Depending on how you decide to handle the middle (for weather) like a simple face trim on the primary door to cover the gap or your not concerned about this. If you're not overly concerned about this, take a 1/4" off this primary door but you may have to pull it back off for another trimming. The thicker the door the bigger your bevel (or square clearance needs to be.

 

[Don1357]

There will be one with the cane bolt and the other will have a strip to overlap the gap in the middle. I'm trying to get the gap right mostly for the weather stripping. We see winds and temperatures in the -20f, a good fit and weather seal does help.

 

[I'mMattman]

I'm building barn doors for my workshop. The entrance is 91" tall by 111.5 wide, or 91" x 55 3/4" each. Obviously even if the frame was perfect that would not leave enough space for play nor weather gasket.

Is a 1/4" gap all around plus between the doors about right? That would make each 90 1/2" x 55 3/8".

You have a lot of factors to contend with. Materials used, and weather. If you're doing wood, I would recommend getting it to as close to the same moisture content as the rest of the barn. I know when I buy 2x4's they're usually super wet, and as we all know, wet = shrinkage. If you do that, then your 1/4" gap will work if you seal the wood when it's done.

Any metal door should be fine with 1/4" clearance.

If you are doing swinging doors of either type, I'd leave enough to put a sweep or seal that's adjustable, because you will have some sagging over time. gravity = saggy (sorry couldn't resist)

 

[Don1357]

The wood have been inside of the building since last year and yes, they will need to be sealed when done or shrinking will be the least of my worries, twisting and cupping could be.

 

[jack stand]

There will be one with the cane bolt and the other will have a strip to overlap the gap in the middle. I'm trying to get the gap right mostly for the weather stripping. We see winds and temperatures in the -20f, a good fit and weather seal does help.

To get it nice and "tight", I think you're fight will be the center. I'd be sure to leave enough wood to trim it down and unfortunately that means at least one removal for trimming it.
Obviously you want killer hinges and a corner to corner diagonal on each panel.
I built a smaller single door (about 40" wide) but basically built a frame out of 2x6 and filled it with polyiso foam panels and made the outside fase from a single sheet of OSB to rack it. The 2x6's are on the 6" depth so it a very well insulated door. For weaterstripping I used the type that comes on most exterior doors that fits into a slot. Easily available (cheap and effective) as a replacement at HD.

 

[The Cobbler]

wood will be very unstable in that size . a slight cup , twist or bow will throw off all your precision figuring. I think you need more than less space,in other words don;t make your gap too small, stay on the larger end. even consider a steel frame maybe?

 

[ducatithunder]

I have built 2 barn doors in that 2 years. One was 100% wood while I was in the construction phase. It was made out of 2x4 with a osb sheathing. I planned on dressing it up when I was done with TG but the door warped, cupped, and twisted over the year. It was also freaking heavy. It had to be 600lbs easy and a bear to open. I decided to remake it out of tube. It was 1/3 the weight and straight was an arrow and easy to open. I insulated it with foam prior to finishing it off. IF you have the means to do it out of metal I would go that route.

 

[jack stand]

Now that's a big door!

 

[Sumboodie]

I'd figure a good 1/2" gap... figure that's only 1/4" on each side.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Make sure the gap is big enough for the mice to move freely.