To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Garage 4

stigedis

Active member
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Messages
44
Location
SE MN
So been lurking on this site for a few years. Finally am able to post my built.:willy_nil
Just got started last week. And hope to backfill between horrible rains here in MN. Will insulate foundation interior and portion of exterior prior to backfill. I will then take over and do everything else after concrete work.

Will be 30x40 stick built with 2x6. Infloor heat, hip roof with gable/dormer over garage with same vinyl siding and shingle all to match house.
Will chip away at interior but goal is to have exterior complete by fall time. Attempting to do most all myself. Will have plenty of questions along the way I am sure.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

BUGTHUG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
2,960
Location
Kansas
going to look good. Hey whats going on with your siding under the porch window? looks like its coming apart from the wall?
 
OP
S

stigedis

Active member
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Messages
44
Location
SE MN
Bug..:yeah that would be the siding coming off. Thanks to the shoddy job of installers when we built a few years back. That, along with a few other spots, will be fixed when I side the garage.

Here are a few more progress pics:

All insulated and ready for backfill.


Back filled. Ready to start framing....after week of vacation!,.
 
OP
S

stigedis

Active member
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Messages
44
Location
SE MN
SO back from vacation with a few piles of wood. Hard to believe there is a 30x40 garage in all that. 2x6 construction.
A few framing questions. I plan on building the 40' back all first, then the front 40' with overhead, then the short walls.

Question #1: When i assemble the 40' wall, I will only be able to do it in sections of maybe 10-12' sections. If the windows fall in the "splice" of the walls, what would be the best way to rough the windows in? 16" on center the whole wall (minus) window areas, get wall upright, them rough windows in? Or should windows NOT be in a splice, in which case change the section length of wall.

Question #2. After i assemble and set 40' sections, when I make the short walls that perpendic. the long walls, I assume that i modify the first 16" on center due to the longer wall stud? That way when i apply sheathing, the stud of long wall is covered and the short wall stud will be at 4' mark to accept the edge of sheating and not be short?

I hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the help.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

lisiecki1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2013
Messages
742
Location
SE Texas
SO back from vacation with a few piles of wood. Hard to believe there is a 30x40 garage in all that. 2x6 construction.
A few framing questions. I plan on building the 40' back all first, then the front 40' with overhead, then the short walls.

Question #1: When i assemble the 40' wall, I will only be able to do it in sections of maybe 10-12' sections. If the windows fall in the "splice" of the walls, what would be the best way to rough the windows in? 16" on center the whole wall (minus) window areas, get wall upright, them rough windows in? Or should windows NOT be in a splice, in which case change the section length of wall.

You would be better off not having a splice over a window opening. In my experience it just makes it easier to get the wall straight when you brace it.

Question #2. After i assemble and set 40' sections, when I make the short walls that perpendic. the long walls, I assume that i modify the first 16" on center due to the longer wall stud? That way when i apply sheathing, the stud of long wall is covered and the short wall stud will be at 4' mark to accept the edge of sheating and not be short?

Are you talking about pulling from the edge of the corner, as opposed to pulling from the stud on the corner? Either way should be fine. You're going to have to rip a sheet somewhere anyway, and then once you do, everything should hit on center. If you want to take the extra time during layout to get it perfect then you may wind up having a perfect 10 sheets on your 40' side, but on the 30' side you're going to have to cut something so I wouldn't be too concerned about how you lay that side out.

I hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the help.

^^^^
 
OP
S

stigedis

Active member
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Messages
44
Location
SE MN
So I have been lazy with posting pics, but I am sheeting the roof. Hip roof. No matter how I try to be most efficient with 8 ft. Sheets, I have lots of "ends" that are slightly longer than 4 ft. That means I have lots of 4 and 6'foot "waste". Question is, can I use some 4 foot and 2 foot pieces to "piece" in on the ends or should I place a full 8 foot, cut it and have a big Bon fire with the waste? It seems a shame to waste all these "extra" pieces. Thanks and I'll try to post some pics of progress. Doing 90% all by myself after work and between naps and changing diapers.....tough to make lots of progress......
 

BUGTHUG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
2,960
Location
Kansas
I would use full sheets, less chance of weak spots. Then use the scraps to make shelves or some toy for the little one or ones.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom