Garage Air System Questions

[mustang68408]

I have done some searching and am having a hard time making a decision from an air system design for my garage.

Compressor: IR Garagemate (to start)
Piping System: RapidAir 3/4 Maxline
Filter/Regulator: RapidAir 1/2 150cfm/175psi
Couplers/Quick Connects: RapidAir 1/4
Reel Hose: Kobalt 3/8 50ft
Garage Size: 21x19

A couple of questions:
-Should design this thing to be a closed loop system or is it going to matter since we are talking about >100 feet of total run including drops? Any benefit now or benefit if I/once I go to a bigger scfm compressor?

-Is there a better way to secure the Maxline to the wall other than the clips? Any home grown solutions? Also, I'm fixing it to concrete block on 3 sides and drywall on one.

Much appreciated to all those who contribute?

 

[mustang68408]

Bump

 

[smalltown]

No expert here by any means, and I see no one responding. I do plan on buying the same RapidAir kit.
Most posters as I recall (there are a lot of posts regarding air piping) think a loop in your garage would not be needed, but I hope they will chime in.

It arrives with 100' as you stated. If you run a closed loop around your garage your going to eat up 80' just in the loop. You will still need line for the three drops, and also connecting to the compressor. You should also consider a flexible line when connecting the compressor to the air line to reduce any vibrations.

I want to build a copper manifold to cool the air as much as possible before entering the Maxline. My copper will be 3/4" so I am thinking of using a 3/4" filter regulator after the copper. As I understand it a filter regulator installed directly on the output of the compressor isn't the best position if the air has a lot of moisture in it.

Regarding prices for the RapidAir kit, Amazon until recently had the best price, but for some reason bumped it up.

 

[toolchaser]

I did a closed loop system with copper in my shop, so each fitting is fed from both sides. That being said, I am going with a single run Max-air system for the new garage build. The shop system is 1/2" piping & is overkill for my needs. I have a 15 cfm compressor & flow through the system will keep up with a 25000 rpm die grinder with no problem.

 

[Streetglide11]

I have the maxline 3/4 kit in my new shop the stuff is OK at best I would not buy it again. It's hard to get the pipe straight if your doing it by yourself, I wasn't going to buy a 180$ straighter or make one,3/4 air line is way overkill for most normal shops, the clips are pretty cheap, fittings are expensive, and I only ran a half the air line I wanted to just to get a air line in the shop. I'm honestly thinking about taking it all down and selling it and putting up the black iron pipe. Just my .2 on it. I'm sure there will be plenty of people that say they love it and it's so great.

 

[IMCA38]

I used these.

https://www.menards.com/main/electr...2-c-14348.htm?tid=-8567762318844119589&ipos=4

 

[mustang68408]

I used these.

https://www.menards.com/main/electr...2-c-14348.htm?tid=-8567762318844119589&ipos=4

That’s a good idea and obviously those things will help keep the pipe straight, nice find.

 

[mustang68408]

No expert here by any means, and I see no one responding. I do plan on buying the same RapidAir kit.
Most posters as I recall (there are a lot of posts regarding air piping) think a loop in your garage would not be needed, but I hope they will chime in.

It arrives with 100' as you stated. If you run a closed loop around your garage your going to eat up 80' just in the loop. You will still need line for the three drops, and also connecting to the compressor. You should also consider a flexible line when connecting the compressor to the air line to reduce any vibrations.

I want to build a copper manifold to cool the air as much as possible before entering the Maxline. My copper will be 3/4" so I am thinking of using a 3/4" filter regulator after the copper. As I understand it a filter regulator installed directly on the output of the compressor isn't the best position if the air has a lot of moisture in it.

Regarding prices for the RapidAir kit, Amazon until recently had the best price, but for some reason bumped it up.

Yeah I bought the 3/4 master kit, got it for 112$ I figured for the 40$ it was more volume than the 1/2 kit. Plus I liked that the 3/4 does pipe sizing, rather than the 1/2 kit which is really 3/8.

I am researching aftercoolers as well as I’m in FL and the humidity is stupid. But that will come after I get the plumbing done for the feeds.

 

[IMCA38]

I am by no means an expert, but here's what I did in general.


https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361663

 

[racestatus]

ive started to lay out my air system as well. im doing mine in all 3/4 copper. do I need 3/4? probably not but volume will never hurt lol. I went back and forth on a closed loop system as copper is not cheap. in the end im not making a closed system. ive worked in a couple dealerships with 9-15 techs and not a single closed loop systems and not a single time I said to myself boy im sure this would work better if it was a closed loop lol. so I opted for not wasting all that material.

 

[smalltown]

Mustang where on earth did you get the Master kit for $112 that's a super deal.
Your comment on the 1/2" kit is exactly the reason I am opting for the 3/4".

IMCA nice write up thanks.

 

[ford33]

If it is only one person in the shop operating tools and you have plenty of air volume from the compressor a closed loop is not necessary. You will not have a significant air pressure drop the further down the pipe you go.

Consider adding that hose reel on the ceiling near the center of the shop. It is very convenient to have it handy for filling tires and blowing dirt off the garage floor and wall surfaces.

I used 3/4" copper in my system with the medium rated tubing. Works well and is easy to install and change in the future. You can buy fittings anywhere.

I used unistrut to attach to the wall and then unistrut brackets to attach the copper pipe. I have electrical and air piping runs in parallel attached to the unistrut. Looks nice and allows for future changes.

If possible, slope the piping from high at the compressor position to a low point furthest away from the compressor. Put a ball valve at the low point so you can blow out water and dirt that collects in the piping. Doesn't have to be a significant slope more like a rain gutter slight slope.
Good luck.

 

[mustang68408]

Mustang where on earth did you get the Master kit for $112 that's a super deal.
Your comment on the 1/2" kit is exactly the reason I am opting for the 3/4".

IMCA nice write up thanks.

I actually got it from Northern Tool (it was opened) and I inventoried all of the pieces... not a single bag broken, only the shipping tape on the box.

I lucked out...

And nice write up.. I love the conduit bracket idea, I think that's a winner...

IMCA how'd you straighten this ****? lol

 

[mustang68408]

If it is only one person in the shop operating tools and you have plenty of air volume from the compressor a closed loop is not necessary. You will not have a significant air pressure drop the further down the pipe you go.

Consider adding that hose reel on the ceiling near the center of the shop. It is very convenient to have it handy for filling tires and blowing dirt off the garage floor and wall surfaces.

I used 3/4" copper in my system with the medium rated tubing. Works well and is easy to install and change in the future. You can buy fittings anywhere.

I used unistrut to attach to the wall and then unistrut brackets to attach the copper pipe. I have electrical and air piping runs in parallel attached to the unistrut. Looks nice and allows for future changes.

If possible, slope the piping from high at the compressor position to a low point furthest away from the compressor. Put a ball valve at the low point so you can blow out water and dirt that collects in the piping. Doesn't have to be a significant slope more like a rain gutter slight slope.
Good luck.

That's exactly what I was looking for... so it's volume at once that makes the closed loop system a benefit. That makes sense, unfortunately I have done too much reading... love and hate the internet at the same time

 

[PT Doc]

Have you considered the rigid aluminum lines? I think they make it as well as Prevost. With 20' lengths it should be easy to install.

 

[jetnow1]

I actually got it from Northern Tool (it was opened) and I inventoried all of the pieces... not a single bag broken, only the shipping tape on the box.

I lucked out...

And nice write up.. I love the conduit bracket idea, I think that's a winner...

IMCA how'd you straighten this ****? lol

I held one end down( closed the garage door on it) then rolled the line out. Was able to straighten it out fairly well, then did the rest as I mounted it.
Same as an electrician does heavy wire.

 

[IMCA38]

And nice write up.. I love the conduit bracket idea, I think that's a winner...

IMCA how'd you straighten this ****? lol

Thanks!

Lots of massaging, eyeballing, and massaging until it looked decent. I have one run that's about 15', the rest are relatively short. The conduit hangers do help. You can lock the tubing in, and then start massaging.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Have you considered the rigid aluminum lines? I think they make it as well as Prevost. With 20' lengths it should be easy to install.

That's exactly what I was looking for... so it's volume at once that makes the closed loop system a benefit. That makes sense, unfortunately I have done too much reading... love and hate the internet at the same time

I have done some searching and am having a hard time making a decision from an air system design for my garage.

Compressor: IR Garagemate (to start)
Piping System: RapidAir 3/4 Maxline
Filter/Regulator: RapidAir 1/2 150cfm/175psi
Couplers/Quick Connects: RapidAir 1/4
Reel Hose: Kobalt 3/8 50ft
Garage Size: 21x19

A couple of questions:
-Should design this thing to be a closed loop system or is it going to matter since we are talking about >100 feet of total run including drops? Any benefit now or benefit if I/once I go to a bigger scfm compressor?

-Is there a better way to secure the Maxline to the wall other than the clips? Any home grown solutions? Also, I'm fixing it to concrete block on 3 sides and drywall on one.

Much appreciated to all those who contribute?

Pretty much every subject on GJ has those who love over kill. Does any home owner need a lift? An epoxy floor? Snap on anything except a tshirt? Lista? Vidmar? What sane person "needs" a race car, a Harley, or six " project" cars?

We should all drive white Corollas or take the bus.

I like loops with drops and water traps and good filters. I like the air operated water drains. Pretty much any pipe works but I plan on PEX instead of PEX-AL-PEX for the interior. I have enough copper, hydraulic hose, and import SS fittings to use for outside. Aluminum pipe is so pricey it makes copper and threaded SS look cheap.

I will use cement block or a cedar cord wood wall for a compressor house. I have enough old NGV, propane, and air tanks for storage to give "overkill" a whole new meaning.

 

[sdwalter]

I used the Maxline 3/4 kit and out in a loop. You likely don't need a loop, but I did it for overkill. One thing you might consider IP putting the drops in hard pipe. I did that to save the flexline for the loop at the ceiling.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Mat3r]

If you want to build an aftercooler, look into getting a transmission cooler and plumb it to the back of the fan guard. I'm using the Derale 13300 on a Quincy 60 gallon. The air line going into the cooler is too hot to touch and the air line coming out is cool to the touch. Much easier and more compact than building a DIY copper manifold or coil. Also, add a drip line before going back into the tank. I would say a closed loop is not needed in your situation.

 

[ringmaster72]

I am going with normal pex al pex 3/4. You can get 300 feet on amazon for $156 shipped. Good bit cheaper than rapidair for the same thing called maxline.

 

[PT Doc]

P Aluminum pipe is so pricey it makes copper and threaded SS look cheap.

Just for a price comparison to keep this thread accurate and up to date. Prevost aluminum airline in 3/4" is under $38 for 19.6 feet. Looking up copper on homedepot.com shows that M is $18.33/10 feet and L is $23.48/10 feet. So 20 feet would be under $37 for M and $47 for L.

Really no price difference and if you couldnt get a 20 foot stick of this copper then you have a fitting between the 2 10 foot sticks.

For those looking into running a versatile airline system, aluminum should be considered. Prevost airlines are in factory and production facilities for a reason. The prices are not what most people think either and they are so easy to work with because the drops and fittings and couplers are made for this application.

 

[MikeNEOH]

Just for a price comparison to keep this thread accurate and up to date. Prevost aluminum airline in 3/4" is under $38 for 19.6 feet....

My web search skills are normally pretty acute, but haven't found a seller of the Prevost system. Where did you find a supplier at? TIA