Garage and Workshop coating suggestions - new slabs

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I have new construction - slabs poured about 5-6 months ago, and I should be ready to tackle the floor in the garage and workshop in a 2-3 months - waiting on construction to complete, and some other projects to finish. I have read many of the floor coating sites mentioned on this forum, and related brands that are responding. What I want:

1. DIY solution - without going to deep into my background, I have done a lot of construction/finish work professionally. I have the skills and tools to install any kind of flooring - I am not scared of 2 part systems
2. I want something that will last - I won't say money is no object, but I don't want to deal with peeling or other issues for a long time
3. Something that is not slippery (maybe adding non-skid is all i need)
4. Will not stain, easy to clean, keeps road salt from damaging concrete
5. If high odor during application, at least know that smell will dissipate before I move in
6. Probably lighter color to aid with lighting

Questions I have:
1. Etching - on new concrete is mechanical etching going to be that much more effective? Are there any metrics comparing mechanical to acid to help make a decision?
2. If I mechanical etch is vacuuming enough cleaning, or should garage be hosed out?
3. Cleaning - new concrete always has stains from muddy boots during construction, do I need to pressure wash? Should i do so before or after etching?
4. If I wash, do i need to do a plastic test before I coat? Do i need to do a plastic/moisture test if I don't get the slab wet?

Finally - size. Garage and Workshop are each about 1100SF, so 2200SF total. It seems to me that a Polyurea is the way to go, but there appear to be many related to products. Anyone tackle a project this big? What did you go with?

I forgot to add the workshop will be used primarily for wood working, but I do have a car I am rebuilding and do welding and grinding too.

Are there any downsides to Polyurea other than initial VOCs?

Thanks for any recommendations or experiences with products that worked or didn't work

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Our NohrS Polyurea kit is pretty easy to use, i dont think you will have any issues with a floor that size.

We talked a DIY through 17000 sq ft in Jax last week.

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Nohr-S® Polyurea Coating Kit pigmented is the ORIGINAL POLYUREA KIT! This is an easy way to source a full compliment of product to successfully coat your garage floor with the popular easy to use Nohr-S Polyurea® These kits offer ease of installation and the fastest return to service available in a

www.legacyindustrial.net

Good luck!




Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

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I was hoping for a more active discussion.

another question I have - can I grind etch now and then coat a week or month later?

 

[RPH]

I used 4 different color acid stain to get some color instead of just gray. I used ghostshield densifier and the 8505 penetrating sealer. Mine is a working farm shop. Every thing will stain sooner or later. But so long as I’m fairly diligent about clean up and have none. This is after a wash down. Ghostshield will not change the color or the grip of the concrete itself

 

[Slowbuilder]

I recently finished a 1000' floor using 2-part 2-coat (polyurethane over epoxy), and I am very pleased with the result - I used the same product in my 3 car garage 12 years ago and had no issues with lifting/flaking. The products I used were from Arizona Polymer Floors (epoxy, polyurethane and seam filler)

That said, it was a lot of work. I looked at mechanical etching, but with the prior results that I had with acid, I decided to go that route again. I had a 2 year old floor, with some stains in one area, so my approach was:

1. Treat the stains with a degreaser. I used Zep.
2. Rinse treated areas
3. Power wash the entire floor.
4. Apply acid to a section of the floor. I did about 200' at a time.
5. Rinse the section, making sure the solution was moved all the way off the floor
6. Neutralize the section with ammonia
7. Rinse the section as above
8. Repeat from 4 until all sections of the floor are complete
9. Power wash again (lightly)
10. Fill the expansion joints and any cracks with epoxy seam filler
11. Grind the filled joints/cracks flat
12. Apply epoxy coat. I used a roller and got good coverage. Broadcast aluminum oxide grit immediately after a section was rolled.
13. Apply Polyurethane coat.

I probably spent 4-5 days prepping and applying.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, our SPGX one-Part Polyurea would work great for you. Etching with a good rinse is fine for this application. Let dry for a day or so. Plastic sheet tests are always a good idea. If you do etch and then want to wait a week or two, that's fine, just vacuum well before coating.

If you do grind vs. etch this 'opens up' the floor more and you could need a second coat. Unlikely, but it can happen with any coating, not just ours.

 

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Thanks everyone.

The only other question I have is regarding polyurea vs epoxy - is the only drawback to polyurea the odor? From all I read, adhesion should be as good or better than epoxy. I am not sure about durability as the polyurea appears to be thinner after install.

Epoxy will yellow, and seems to have more possibility of hot tire lift. I know I can combine epoxy and polyurea too, I just haven't seen anyone list any real negatives of an all polyurea system.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

The number one reason for polyurea over epoxy? E A S Y

Good luck!

 

[Magnify]

I am still comparison shopping as I tend to over think things. I see Roll On Rock from garagecoatings.com - they offer a full broadcast system for quite a bit cheaper then others - they claim that non-skid is not needed for most garages. I assume they are less expensive (over $1000) because all the products are 2-part.

Has anyone done a full flake polyurea topcoat without non-skid and regret it?

Anyone try Roll On Rock? Are 2 part systems more durable then one part?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Check thickness of the floor and gallonage you are getting when comparing and how many topcoat layers since a full broadcast needs two coats normally due to the flecked floor being VERY porous due to the overlapping of the flecks so when the first coat of topcoat is applied the topcoat gets sucked into the millions of little valleys and gaps. The second coat gives the protection. Also see if a primer coat is included since a porous floor soaks up the epoxy leaving only a thin layer to accept the flecks. Best practices is to prime the floor (mandated in our opinion if you grind) so then the mid coat lays out thicker to accept the fleck layer.

 

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Is there an expectation of longevity/adhesion for acid etch vs mechanical ? Many mentions that mechanical (grinding) is better, but nothing quantifiable is mentioned.

So far I just see that grinding may require primer. But is 30% more cost equal to 30% increased life span?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, there is no published data that we are aware of that compares life spans of different preparation methods. We can tell you from over 20 years of experience, plus owning our own large installation company that the better the prep, the better the outcome and life span of the project.

Best practices for an epoxy garage would be to grind, then prime with a mid-solids epoxy primer, then a 100% solids epoxy with or without flecks, and then a high performance urethane or polyaspartic topcoat with non skid additive.

Etch floors should be primed too, but not required, but a primed floor will always be thicker, and hence, longer lasting, than a non-primed floor.

Since most people don't have access to, or don't want to be bothered with mechanical preparation if they don't have to, etching would be the nest best thing.

 

[Magnify]

Hi, there is no published data that we are aware of that compares life spans of different preparation methods. We can tell you from over 20 years of experience, plus owning our own large installation company that the better the prep, the better the outcome and life span of the project.

Best practices for an epoxy garage would be to grind, then prime with a mid-solids epoxy primer, then a 100% solids epoxy with or without flecks, and then a high performance urethane or polyaspartic topcoat with non skid additive.

Etch floors should be primed too, but not required, but a primed floor will always be thicker, and hence, longer lasting, than a non-primed floor.

Since most people don't have access to, or don't want to be bothered with mechanical preparation if they don't have to, etching would be the nest best thing.

It sounds like you favor an epoxy primer over polyurea direct to etched concrete?

 

[Armorpoxy]

If short cure time for fast back-in-service time, or lower cure temperatures are not an issue, then yes, we would normally recommend the 3 layer 100% solids epoxy system. It will end up being up to 2x the mil thickness for about the same price range. They are both though superb coatings that will give many, many years of service life.