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Garage apron - apply epoxy or not?

su_hyd

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Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
9
Hi All, I am planning to have Quikrete epoxy base coat application done on my 520 sft garage floor on Monday 06/24 followed by clear coat on next day. Wondering if I should have epoxy applied on garage apron?

If it is suggested to have epoxy applied on apron, should I be using flakes or no flakes? Also, should I do clear coat on apron?

Quick feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 

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lespaul64

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May 23, 2013
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I'm in the middle of finishing my floor. I used the Valspar product. Just a heads up that the Valspar product (which I think used to be the Quikrete product) only provides half the coverage they claim so you may want to be prepared. I'll end up using 4 or 5 gallons for my 440 sq ft garage.

To your question, I elected not to do the apron. For me the decision was based on my color selection (light blue, though it would look weird outside) and concerns over proper curing due to environmental factors while it's still tacky (e.g., ants, bugs, wind blown debris, bird sh**, etc.). Knowing what I know now, also because I wanted want to waste money on the square footage. However, if I had chosen a more natural color like gray, I would have considered it strongly. I'm sure you can fend off the elements while it cures with some planning.

I don't believe you'd have an issue with UV. But, I'm guessing it may not last as long because of the elements though. I'm not sure where you live but temperature extremes (hot in summer, cold/ice in winter) do a number on concrete and probably the epoxy over time.
 

lespaul64

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May 23, 2013
Messages
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I don't believe you'd have an issue with UV.

Oops, well certainly some epoxy-based websites indicate that UV is a big problem for fading/damanging epoxy paints.

"Regular, prolonged exposure to the sun is not good for your skin, but it’s also not good for your garage floor. UV rays are known to damage surfaces, and epoxy finished garage floors are no different from other surfaces that the sun can wreak havoc on. Overtime, repeated UV ray exposure will fade the epoxy finish (and not evenly) UV rays can be reflected off driveways and other hard surfaces, so don’t think you would need a stream of direct sunlight constantly coming into your garage to be a problem."
 

pauls_workshop

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Epoxy outside will yellow over time. It will change color. It won't go away or fail, just be a very different color. Generally, a real bad idea to do epoxy on the apron that is outside the garage. Looks terrible after a few years. Most don't do that. Some better polyurethane clear coatings can include UV blockers, but even the best only last so long. There is no permanent solution to avoid epoxy yellowing. There are some products that are not epoxy that will not yellow in UV however. That could be an option, but not epoxy. - Paul
 
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su_hyd

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May 16, 2013
Messages
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Thank you all for your valuable feedback.
I have decided not be use epoxy (either base coat or clear) on apron based on your inputs.
 
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su_hyd

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May 16, 2013
Messages
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I bought 3 grey color Quikrete kits for my 520 sqft two car garage and hired painter who recently did two car garage using the same number of kits. He is planning to mix all three kits together in to a 5 gallon paint container for color consistency. I am hoping 3 kits would be enough and surprised to hear that it took 4 to 5 gallons for 440 sqft garage.



I'm in the middle of finishing my floor. I used the Valspar product. Just a heads up that the Valspar product (which I think used to be the Quikrete product) only provides half the coverage they claim so you may want to be prepared. I'll end up using 4 or 5 gallons for my 440 sq ft garage.

To your question, I elected not to do the apron. For me the decision was based on my color selection (light blue, though it would look weird outside) and concerns over proper curing due to environmental factors while it's still tacky (e.g., ants, bugs, wind blown debris, bird sh**, etc.). Knowing what I know now, also because I wanted want to waste money on the square footage. However, if I had chosen a more natural color like gray, I would have considered it strongly. I'm sure you can fend off the elements while it cures with some planning.

I don't believe you'd have an issue with UV. But, I'm guessing it may not last as long because of the elements though. I'm not sure where you live but temperature extremes (hot in summer, cold/ice in winter) do a number on concrete and probably the epoxy over time.
 

lespaul64

Member
Joined
May 23, 2013
Messages
13
Man, I'd be hesitant of that based on what I just went through. The thing is, there is no way those two one gallons were going any more than the did. I stretched them thin. I just looked and still see areas with poor coverage that will need a patch coat. I really think they are way off. I've heard of similar issues before.

I thought the pot life had something to do with, and maybe it did. The product gets thicker as you go. Near the end of the 1-gallon, it is useable, but it is clearly starting to gum up which I imagine uses more product per square foot. I moved fast too. The entire gallon in 1-hour. At my temperature and humdity, Valspar claims a 2.5 hour pot life. I should have had plenty of time and no significant change in product within an hour than.

I don't know. Maybe it's a ploy/sales trick. I do know lighter colors generally take more product. That is, a think/poorly distributed gray product will look decent over a floor. But, a powder blue product with roller with a low thickness shows the concrete underneath.
 
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su_hyd

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May 16, 2013
Messages
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I have prepared my garage floor surface by renting concrete grinder from HD and wondering whether to use concrete primer or not before applying epoxy base coat. If I use primer, then I may be able to get by with 3 kits for the entire 520 sqft area.


Man, I'd be hesitant of that based on what I just went through. The thing is, there is no way those two one gallons were going any more than the did. I stretched them thin. I just looked and still see areas with poor coverage that will need a patch coat. I really think they are way off. I've heard of similar issues before.

I thought the pot life had something to do with, and maybe it did. The product gets thicker as you go. Near the end of the 1-gallon, it is useable, but it is clearly starting to gum up which I imagine uses more product per square foot. I moved fast too. The entire gallon in 1-hour. At my temperature and humdity, Valspar claims a 2.5 hour pot life. I should have had plenty of time and no significant change in product within an hour than.

I don't know. Maybe it's a ploy/sales trick. I do know lighter colors generally take more product. That is, a think/poorly distributed gray product will look decent over a floor. But, a powder blue product with roller with a low thickness shows the concrete underneath.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
If this is epoxy, mixing all that together will create heat. It will likely turn to goo before he gets it all out. May even smoke a bit.

He needs to mix it and get it out of that bucket and onto the floor.

He would be better off mixing his A and B components (separately) together , then meter out into smaller batches.

Also...
Is this 100% solids?
How thin do you want it?

Some products cannot be put down thin without a "thinner" being added, like 100% solids.
 
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Average_Joe

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Mar 13, 2011
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Location
Summerville, SC
I have used both rustoleum and quickrete. Rustoleum is a lot nicer finish and seemed to be more durable. That being said, I would use something a little better than either of those.
 
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su_hyd

Member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
9
I have bought 3 kits of Quikrete for my 520 sqft garage and this epoxy is 40 % solids.

If this is epoxy, mixing all that together will create heat. It will likely turn to goo before he gets it all out. May even smoke a bit.

He needs to mix it and get it out of that bucket and onto the floor.

He would be better off mixing his A and B components (separately) together , then meter out into smaller batches.

Also...
Is this 100% solids?
How thin do you want it?

Some products cannot be put down thin without a "thinner" being added, like 100% solids.
 
Last edited:
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