Garage apron cracking

[woody611]

This is my first time asking for help here.

I have a problem where my garage slab meets the expansion joint of the driveway slab.



How can I repair this?

I had planned on filling the expansion joint and crack with Sika flex before this started to fragment.

The floor is 4 years old. It is supported by precast panels which creates an additional full 3 stall garage underneath which will eventually become my shop.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

I've done a fair amount of concrete work. One thing with concrete edges is that they're challenging to fix and have them hold up. The apron is an area that sees a lot of traffic and is outside subject to hot/cold, freeze/thaw.

If this were mine, I would go to a specialty concrete supply house with the picture and get their recommendation. I'm sure someone in the forums does this sort of thing for a living and could lead you in the right direction, also.

I suspect you'll want to cut/grind out the affected areas to clean and roughen the concrete at the very least. I wonder whether you could used a product like this (http://www.legacyindustrial.net/pro...atings/xtreme-set-100-crack-joint-filler.html) along with sand, and then grind? Scotty from Legacy Industrial could comment on this product better.

 

[Rookie2]

I've seen this at a friends garage, I believe one of the slabs is expanding from sun or floor heat (in my friends case).

I would cut that expansion material out and use some rubber like filler ( ask others) before you patch the chipped area.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I've done a fair amount of concrete work. One thing with concrete edges is that they're challenging to fix and have them hold up. The apron is an area that sees a lot of traffic and is outside subject to hot/cold, freeze/thaw.

If this were mine, I would go to a specialty concrete supply house with the picture and get their recommendation. I'm sure someone in the forums does this sort of thing for a living and could lead you in the right direction, also.

I suspect you'll want to cut/grind out the affected areas to clean and roughen the concrete at the very least. I wonder whether you could used a product like this (http://www.legacyindustrial.net/pro...atings/xtreme-set-100-crack-joint-filler.html) along with sand, and then grind? Scotty from Legacy Industrial could comment on this product better.

Yes sir, peen the weak edges, remove all loose material. Fill with dry sand and apply the Xtreme-100. Grind flush 30 minutes later and pop a top.


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[woody611]

What color will the repaired area be with the crack filler product? The same as the aggregate used to fill the space? Does anything need to be drilled/screwed into the existing slab?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Its important when repairing concrete to grind/chip out and make 'square' all vertical edges and such, especially in a high use area like this. The reason is if you attempt to put a repair product in there and 'feather' it, at the thin/feathered areas there just isn't enough material to hold up and then it fails. That is why patched sidewalks and such fail.

When you see road work being done on concrete, they always diamond cut 90 degree areas and make squares and rectangles and chip out those areas so they can get in enough concrete to hold up. This isn't any different.

Suggest using epoxy mortar like our Armorpoxy Mortar since it is stronger than concrete, and while more expensive, for a small area like this it would be a good choice.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Polyurea trumps epoxy in these cases. Polyurea is 100% more flexible.
This application needs to be flexible. It will look a bit different, it could be coated with a tinted sealer to match it up.

 

[woody611]

With it getting colder here in Iowa, would it make sense to do this repair in the spring to get a proper cure?

Is there a product that could be installed as a temporary repair to keep it from getting worse as things freeze/thaw?

 

[Armorpoxy]

We carry special low temp epoxy mortar that will cure down into the mid 30's.

Please call us for info and pricing. Thank you!

 

[CNGsaves]

With it getting colder here in Iowa, would it make sense to do this repair in the spring to get a proper cure?

Is there a product that could be installed as a temporary repair to keep it from getting worse as things freeze/thaw?

OP . . . . you've been on GJ for 3 years and don't have a Location.

UPDATE GJ Profile with your location information to get best advice.

Are you saying the cracked portion is "hollow" underneath for your basement shop, or the good concrete to left of picture is over top of basement ??

I'd guess that your cracked portion is right at the freeze/thaw point of soil next to garage . . . right ?? Does water/snow/ice sit there or does it have way to get away??

You may want to look deeper at the "root cause" of your problem which is freeze/thaw and water issue. Better solution might be to cut out strip across entire front of garage and install drain system instead.

 

[woody611]

The good concrete on the left is the driveway. The expansion joint is the gap between the driveway slab and the garage slab on the right. The cracked are is directly inline with the left side tires on the wife's vehicle, although similar less severe cracking is occurring along most of the garage floor slab. The precast panels form the garage floor structure, which has a 3-5" sloped poured slab on top.

I had assumed that the root cause is the runoff of melting snow and other moisture getting into the expansion area and the freezing. My thought was to fill the gap with self leveling to allow water to continue on down the driveway.

I really wanted to put in floor drains but didn't think piping them through the precast would be a good long term idea (i.e. Leaks around the pipe)

Apologies on the profile info, didn't think anyone ever looked at that info.

 

[Slowgsr]

I've had good success fixing cracks with top and bond.
I always do an inverted vgroove with my quick cut, then I have a small chipping gun I use to clean out the crack, then I remove all loose debris, grind the face where the patch will be feathered onto with a cup wheel, air blow everything out with compressed air, then I'll take a sponge and wet down the surface where the patch is feathered too and the edges of what I'm filling, just so the concrete doesn't **** out all the moisture of my patch material too quickly. I'll mix my patch with hot water in colder temps.

Top and bond has worked well for me, if you feel it with your hands it almost feels sticky once mixed.

I pack the crack up with a tuck pointing tool, and I finish the surface with my small trowel and a small float.