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Garage build 30x34 into the hill

Jwestercamp

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Joined
Jul 23, 2012
Messages
121
So started construction on a 30x34 12 sidewall garage/man cave. It’s been wet here and now cold but they are making good progress. Trying to figure out an interior liner as well as some cool out door lighting options. Also looking at epoxy flooring options If there are any DIY good kitsd03f2bc6639ff3bb8a5428f032934848.jpg99bbb0881e1b6501bd21ce7123d6663b.jpg62543315691fa4ea9076fce348d62fef.jpg477a89d7ad94568145eafe01b8ab7f95.jpg46b966082d16dbd81461523483bf7dfa.jpg55fbc0ee51f429564d5a138872d07cd4.jpg


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Jwestercamp

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bjcouche

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Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
509
Location
Ohio
I had my shop cut into a steep hill similar to yours. Some quick advice, make sure that before they backfill they do TWO things.
#1, coat the exterior underground concrete with sealant. I don't remember teh name, but it's a black tar like substance. This is common for house foundation and basements. It seals the concrete and prevents moisture from traveling through your wall. Without it, you'll always have excess moisture in your building and possibly issues with excess tool rusting. Also make sure they have good foundation drains.
#2, add rigid foam insulation to the EXTERRIOR of the concrete wall where buried. This will be much better than trying to insulate the inside wall.

Lastly enjoy having that much concrete below grade in your building as it will naturally keep it cooler in summer and warmer in winter.. Only downside is concrete costs $$$.
Brian
 
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Jwestercamp

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Thanks Brian. I am looking at all those things I asked the contractor to put a extra 2’ of gravel around walls for additional drainage is wasn’t sure about the insulation but that sounds like a great idea. How thick did you go


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bjcouche

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Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
509
Location
Ohio
I went with 2" rigid foam. I'm not sure if that's correct or not, I would ask the contractor to do what they would normally do if it were a house basement. The gravel against the wall is good but you also need foundation drains, basically perforated pipe laid at the footer level and brought out downhill and "day lighted" That way any water at your foundation will drain away. All these suggestions are fairly inexpensive for you to do before the wall is back filled. In order to do these things later, you would have to excavate to expose the wall. Compared to the cost in concrete for your wall, these additional items are inexpensive and lost in the rounding error. The portions of my shop that are above grade and not concrete are very well insulated. My shop never gets below freezing all winter even when it's 15F outside, without heating the space. In the summer I keep the doors closed because it's noticeably cooler inside.
 
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