Garage Cabinet Door Issues - Help Needed!

[jdrautoworks]

So built some awesome cabinets for the new house and came out great! My issues is the 5/8 AC birch plywood doors are warping to the point they have 6" gaps on the non hinged side on a 24" x 68" door (even the 21" x 24" doors are warped). The doors were sanded filled with wood filler where needed, sealed and painted. The doors were straight when installed and are now a mess.

My question is I have to use standard what I call standard hinges (2 screws on the cabinet and 3 in the door from the backside) due to the design of the frames, what options do I have as I am not buying more plywood? I thought about MDF or particle board but will not hold a screw long term, I also looked at Densshield backer board but it will not hold a screw either... Are there any other options such as a ABS or plastic or ??? I've got a bunch of money ******* in these doors and don't want to have to do over a 3rd time.

Thanks for the help!

 

[thatalbertaguy]

So built some awesome cabinets for the new house and came out great! My issues is the 5/8 AC birch plywood doors are warping to the point they have 6" gaps on the non hinged side on a 24" x 68" door (even the 21" x 24" doors are warped). The doors were sanded filled with wood filler where needed, sealed and painted. The doors were straight when installed and are now a mess.

My question is I have to use standard what I call standard hinges (2 screws on the cabinet and 3 in the door from the backside) due to the design of the frames, what options do I have as I am not buying more plywood? I thought about MDF or particle board but will not hold a screw long term, I also looked at Densshield backer board but it will not hold a screw either... Are there any other options such as a ABS or plastic or ??? I've got a bunch of money ******* in these doors and don't want to have to do over a 3rd time.

Thanks for the help!

Particle board will hold a screw if you find the proper fasteners. To completely change the hinge might sound like a lot of work but for a particle board it's wise. European style hinges are set into the door edge on the inside and a backer plate is installed in the base cabinet. As long as your cabinets are relatively level and square, these hinges allow for adjustment in all directions. These are the type of hinges that will click in so the doors are removable. I do not recommend mdf due to its weight, also depends on door size. A malemine particle board offers a light weight clean option for doors and cabinets. The hinges could be fairly expensive but could prevent any future hassle. A cheaper option would be piano hinges but they do not offer any adjustment so if your cabinets are not square and level you'll be fighting with those. I'd recommend malemine if you have the ability to cut large sheets and perhaps edge band to give it a clean look.

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[jdrautoworks]

Thanks! I did not think of the malemine, what style fastener would you recommend? The hinges are a standard cabinet hinge that will screw from the back to the front, I am aware there are screws specific to particle board is there something else I should look at? The cases are square and plumb withing a 1/16" so that shouldn't be a issue.

I do get what you are saying with the inset hinges but are just not a option, I can however install 4-6 hinges on my 68" doors if needed, I figured 4 would suffice.

 

[thatalbertaguy]

These are the European style hinges, these particular ones offer soft closing but they still make standard closing ones also, the backer plate on the back of the cabinet would take no more space than your standard hinges, unless they will just not work also.

As you can see by my screw above the hinge that attaches one cabinet to another, malemine chips easily, so if you plan to go that route be prepared to have a sharp blade or be happy with a little edge chipping.

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[jdrautoworks]

Completely understand the euro hinges and have installed many but because my doors overlap my cases (cabinet faces) makes them a no go. If I had to redo my cases it would be cheaper to go with oak ply and I'm trying to avoid that cost.

 

[Verado1250]

I'd make a rail/stile type of door with a 1/4" hardboard/masonite panel. On your larger door, I'd put in a middle rail to help with stability. On the tongue and grooves, make them 1/2" instead of the standard 3/8". If you don't have a shaper or router table, these can be easily made on a tables saw also. I would suggest your rails/stiles be 2 1/2" width.

 

[thatalbertaguy]

If you do decide to do malemine, and you want to keep your existing hinges, then maybe just use a hinge screw with a plastic dowel, this is what the euro hinges are attached with into malemine, hardwood, etc etc. They will work for any purpose. They are meant for hinges, you'd have to make sure they will be the right size for your existing hinges. I've seen them on Amazon before, they are made by Rok or Blum, and other brands. Google "plastic dowel hinge screws", they will have a plastic insert that expands when the screw is sink into it, similar to a drywall anchor.

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[Kaizen]

I’d also either make a panel door or attach 1x4 on the back or front and screw the ply to it. Might have to wet the ply initially to get it to move but it will help keep it straight.



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[tcianci]

A few things...
I would guess that the hinge side of the doors is still straight. If that's the case, you can forget about any other type or quantity of hinge to solve the problem. Since the doors are plywood, I'm going to guess they were going to be painted, if that's the case, make your doors out of 3/4 MDF and use euro type cup hinges, yes you can get them for an overlay style door. Prime the saw cut edges with Zinsser BIN white pigmented shellac. this product will encapsulate the saw cut fibers and let you sand the end cuts as slick as the face of the door. MDF is very inexpensive and very stable.
Let us know how you make out. And BTW, it's Melamine, not malamine

 

[James-W]

A few years ago a lady I used to work with sent a young couple to my house who had a problem with two of their laundry room cabinet doors. They were warped and they would not close correctly.

The doors were made from plywood and were not sealed, not sure why they weren't sealed, they just weren't. To make a long story short, bought some nice pine boards and ripped them into inch and a half strips. Then I flipped the grain and glued them together to make the new doors.

At the times I didn't have a wide drum sander, so I took the two doors I made to a buddy of mine who had one and he sanded them for me. Then stained and applied two coats of polyurethane. When the doors were completely dry I mounted their hardware and gave them a call to come get them.

My buddy didn't charge me anything for sanding the doors, so I charged the young couple the cost of the wood plus $10 per door and they were tickled pink. They took the doors, went home and installed them. Then they came back and told me the doors fit perfectly and gave me another $20. I didn't want to take it, but they insisted.

Anyway, I said all that to give you an idea that perhaps using real wood to make new doors may be a better alternative. But you need to saw the wood, flip the grain and then glue it back together again. Using a wide board is NOT a good idea because boards can, and usually do, warp over time.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

Completely understand the euro hinges and have installed many but because my doors overlap my cases (cabinet faces) makes them a no go. If I had to redo my cases it would be cheaper to go with oak ply and I'm trying to avoid that cost.

You can get overlay frame cup hinges.

We use them all the time up to 1-5/16” overlay. Don’t dismiss an option because you don’t know.

Look up the Blum clip top hinges for up to 3/4” overlay, or the standard 38N/39C face frame mount hinges for larger

 

[glentre]

Doors will warp if they absorb more moisture on one side than the other. Painting one side and not the other will let the door pick up more moisture on the unfinished side and it will warp. Three coats of paint on one side and a light coat of sealer on the other will also let the door warp because more moisture will enter one side than the other. The construction and applied finishes must be balanced with regard to prevention of moisture pickup. This is why plywood always has an uneven number of plies.

Melamine panel doors with plastic laminate on one face work fine even though they seem to be unbalanced. The reason is that neither face allows any moisture pickup.

Solid wood is another story because, unlike man made homogeneous panel products, wood has internal stresses that can cause warping independent from moisture pickup. Moisture further influences warping in addition to the internal stresses. Species of wood used and how it is cut from the log also come into play.

As I have commented before, Thou shalt not screw with Mother Nature. Precautions must be taken with regard to preventing wood products from warping or Mother Nature will make you pay.

Glen

 

[ScottsGT]

I had some kitchen cabinet doors warp after painting and reinstalling them during our remodel. Same amount of paint on both sides. I simply taped a block on the low side of the warp and put a weight against the high side. Left it that way 24 hours and warp was gone. The trick is to "over warp" it in the opposite direction.

 

[Git]

Our kitchen pantry has some pretty large doors (24" x 57") and are rail and style construction (cherry with a cherry raised panel insert)

It is pretty common to use a piece of 1/2" angle screwed to the inside of the door opposite from the hinge side to keep them from warping

 

[Slednut]

I used 1/2 inch melamine for these doors, the big ones didn't shut all the way at the bottom when I installed them. The pressure from the spring hinges made them flush after a couple months.