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Garage Cabinets - NewAge Pro wall hung

falconx

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Oct 10, 2023
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Hello

New to thread and was hoping to get some advice on a few things . Have a 3 car garage and recently had an epoxy /polyaspartic floor coating placed. Bought a 14 piece NewAge Pro set to install and wall hung. However I do have a 15 inch stem wall that protrudes about 1-1.5” . I was thinking to add a ledger (2x12) across the length of the entire set . Anchoring to the wall studs with ledgerlok. Then I can use the wall clamps on top of the ledger . This way the cabinets are plumb due to the stem wall protrusion. Any issues on my plan to install?
 
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ddurrett896

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Mar 29, 2015
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Nope did the same thing. Ledge is about the same height and setting them on that put the lockers and base cabinets too high. Ended up lagging a double 2x4 up high and anchoring the cabinets to that. Kinda nice having the void behind it for levels, etc that are long and rarley used.
 
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falconx

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May I ask how high from the floor your cabinets are? I was thinking 9.5 inches to make the countertop at 43 inches . Would that be too high?
 

dglennon

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Its not the best picture but that is similar to how I mounted my NewAge cabinets. I wanted to be able to easily sweep underneath them (or fill that space with stuff!). I rested them on the small concrete ledge, bolted them all together, and used 4 or 5 of the course thread lags right into the studs.

Garage June 2019.jpg
 

HogDude

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Its not the best picture but that is similar to how I mounted my NewAge cabinets. I wanted to be able to easily sweep underneath them (or fill that space with stuff!). I rested them on the small concrete ledge, bolted them all together, and used 4 or 5 of the course thread lags right into the studs.

Garage June 2019.jpg
Well done! Looks beautiful. I'm guessing that the process worked out well for level and plumb? I have awning windows in our garage. Like yours they are high enough off the ground that deters break in through the window but allows great light (east facing) and ventilation.
 
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falconx

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Is 43 inches too high for the countertop ? I choose this height because it would give clearance for the bottom holes to be able to anchor to the bottom ledger .

Also I placed two 2-gang 20 amp receptacles that now would be behind the lockers. Should I cutout the back of the lockers to access ? Or is there another solution?

I can still move the outlet further up if it would help right now it’s at 52 inch from floor
 

pbon

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For the outlets, yes, very carefully measure and cut out. You can put the plate over the cutout if you are accurate enough in the cutout. 43” is high but acceptable if you are not a short person. My 2nd floor floor bump up for the 1st floor lift gives me a large 42” counter. It’s as high as I would want but useable. Downstairs, my New Age Pro are all at stock height and I prefer that height.
 

ddurrett896

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Also I placed two 2-gang 20 amp receptacles that now would be behind the lockers. Should I cutout the back of the lockers to access ? Or is there another solution?
I wouldn’t try to cut the cabinet perfect for the outlet. Instead drill a hole for the wire and make a junction in the wall box then out a metal surface mounted box inside the cabinet.
 

M.Wong

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Seattle, WA
Is 43 inches too high for the countertop ?
I have my bench at 40.5" which is similar to my office standing desk height. It's not bad, maybe a little high for some projects, but I also wanted more room underneath the bench.

IMG_1168.jpg
 

CraigStu

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Your ledger board is a great way to deal w/ the stem wall. I don't think you need a 2x12 though. a 2x4 would probably do the job and a 2x6 definitely will. The nice thing is you spend your time attaching the ledgers to the studs and then the cabinet attachments can be wherever you want. I am 5'9" and a 43 counter height would be a bit tall for me but you can test it for you by putting some boxes or something on your kitchen counter to build it up to 43. Re outlets, I assume you will have a mix of cabinets somewhat like dglennon's. Remember your lockers will cover the wall so I'd cut into it, drill holes in the studs, and do whatever else you need to to move those outlets to above you counter cabinets. No need to fix your cuts cause you won't see them. Oh, and make the outlets 2 gang so you can plug 4 cords at once.
 
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falconx

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Oct 10, 2023
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Hello guys

So my choice of a 2x12 was more to the fact of a more robust header, prob 2x8 or 2x10 would work as well. However I find myself second guessing if the weight of these cabinets with stuff will be too much to wall hang. Even if I create this ledger frame and lag bolt everything. Will there be any flex ? Anyone that hung their cabinets have second thoughts?
 

Reborn

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I hung my new age pro with a 'traditional' install. Using their feet on the floor and into studs where I was able (at least one stud per cabinet). I have seen zero flex. I have the smaller ones that go above too (so they are full floating) and no flex on those either, but they're small and generally have light things in them.


For the outlet, think very carefully about what you want to do and where you want it placed and make the adjustment now! I have an outlet right over the center of my workbench. I wish I had added one down below. It's obviously not too late, but much easier to do stuff like that before you put cabinets everywhere.
 

pbon

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I spent a massive amount of time planned my garage and still ended up with an outlet in a New Age Pro locker. I cut out a hole in the back. Plans change — I added another locker to the row.
 
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falconx

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My concern is the weight of the entire system will be on the wall, it seems like it’s meant for it however just thinking of all scenarios.

Regarding the outlet I have 2 double gang on each side of the center workbench but will be behind the locker. Since I have a stem wall protrusion I can access it if I don’t add a slat wall (haven’t bought this yet). if the plug is flat should be able to access but was planning to just plug a few strips and have access this way. I agree plans change as you get started . Also a small circular hole to add strips to the lockers
 

draco_1967

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I have my NewAge Bold cabinets wall mounted on a 2x4 ledger. They have been up for 2.5 years now, with no signs of sagging or warping. My counter is at 41," and I'm happy with it at 6' tall.
I don't have any of the cabinets loaded to capacity, but they certainly aren't empty. Each of the tall cabinets has two studs supporting it.

Edit: I after re-reading, I see you won't be using a ledger at the bottom, so I see the concerns you have. Is there a way you could anchor a ledger to the stem wall? Or maybe use a PT ledger on the floor along the back edge to help support the weight?
FruL8VNm20WZmpmFK2IfD6oQemR1ri8JMDt6-e4gf-_n=w2400.jpg
2dwSSrpaJv-ADkZdWpvp-hg1OAokTJlPHOSuDCTKvQI_F=w800.jpg

For the top of each cabinet, I used a 1/8" flat steel bar to help distribute the load on the back wall of the cabinet.
rHjgxj4YfjldAlOzK6e8iI2BeKJEuzZ7PGOKZyqc4x6l5=w800.jpg
 
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falconx

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Draco , I ordered the pro version which is heavier system, even empty it is considerable weight and if I hang it on a top ledger and bolt it to the studs I just feel it may be too much weight for the wall unless I reinforce the wall which is way too much work. I just had the floor done with epoxy & polyaspartic including the stem walls so don’t want to drill into that coating but I guess I can place a PT 2x8 vertically to rest on floor & back wall to support the system from back bottom, but feel like that defeats the purpose of hanging the cabinets. I do like steel bar you added, was something something similar, Where did you get yours?

Any other suggestions? Does anyone else have a fully hanging system (4 lockers, 4top&bottom)

Pic below of the stem wall protrusion, 2nd pic is a quick drawing I was planning to build and anchor to the wall. The top ledger will be lag bolted and the 2x4 rotated so they fit on the stem wall ledge, by placing the 2x4’s between the top and bottom ledger , this frame is supported by that stem wall. I would also bolt/lag screw each 2x4 to the stds in wall. Will this support the concerned weight??
 

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cweidert03

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New Castle, IN
I had a similar issue at my old house, I bought some “long threaded nuts” and extended the front feet to hold the cabinet and rested the back of the cabinet on the stem wall
 

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Just_Steve

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Mine sit on the stemwall, I just recently installed them and put the worktop in the stock location, I will probably lower the worktop about 3 or 4 inches. Only picture I have at the moment, I also don't have the measurements.IMG_3459.jpeg
 

draco_1967

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Draco , I ordered the pro version which is heavier system, even empty it is considerable weight and if I hang it on a top ledger and bolt it to the studs I just feel it may be too much weight for the wall unless I reinforce the wall which is way too much work. I just had the floor done with epoxy & polyaspartic including the stem walls so don’t want to drill into that coating but I guess I can place a PT 2x8 vertically to rest on floor & back wall to support the system from back bottom, but feel like that defeats the purpose of hanging the cabinets. I do like steel bar you added, was something something similar, Where did you get yours?

Any other suggestions? Does anyone else have a fully hanging system (4 lockers, 4top&bottom)

Pic below of the stem wall protrusion, 2nd pic is a quick drawing I was planning to build and anchor to the wall. The top ledger will be lag bolted and the 2x4 rotated so they fit on the stem wall ledge, by placing the 2x4’s between the top and bottom ledger , this frame is supported by that stem wall. I would also bolt/lag screw each 2x4 to the stds in wall. Will this support the concerned weight??

The steel bar I got at Home Depot, but any metal supplier will have something similar.

With a 2x8 resting on the floor against the stem wall, you aren't losing much floor space, so it will appear as if the cabinets are still hanging, but it would alleviate the concern of so much weight hanging from the wall.

Also, the bench top is attached with two pieces of angled to pre-drilled holes in the sides of the cabinets, but you could always change the locations of those holes to suit your needs for bench height.
 

stanimal #1

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FalconX - Great post...Thanks! This is the exact predicament I'm facing. NewAge Pro 42 inch wide lockers...new floors, stem wall and not sure the wall can handle the weight without resting them on the ledge...but that is higher than I want. I was thinking of a 2x8 ledger running across the to and another along the bottom (using either 1/4. - 4 or 3.5 inch stainless steel lag bolts , but without support from the ledge, I'm concerned about the weight issues. Either way, I plan on doing cutouts for electrical in the back, as I wired the whole wall with multiple recepticles, however, the ledger will not only allow me to avoid being to high from resting on the stem wall ledge, but will allow extra space for the wires from outlets I'm going to mount directly into the top of the workbench.

Seems I need an engineering degree to figure this one out so looking to see how you did yours or other advice from anyone else.

Thanks again for your post.
IMG_0745.jpegIMG_0747.jpegIMG_0744.jpeg
 
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falconx

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I basically added a ledger top and bottom and added blocking between . Came out perfect with addition rigidity. I upgraded all bolts to 5” ledgerloks from fasten master, added steel brace plates as well to each bolt. Used a Hydraulic Jack to lift the unit onto the wall bracket, leveled then bolted, custom cut holes for network and electrical pass through via rubber grommets.
 

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stanimal #1

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Jul 2, 2024
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Wow! Very impressive! The framing/support picture is super helpful. I'm doing similar custom cuts for electrical so appreciate the heads up on the grommets. Also, looks like my 4 inch lag bolts may need to be upgraded....I'll check out the bolts you recommended.

Thanks for your help! Very much appreciated!
 

stanimal #1

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Jul 2, 2024
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I basically added a ledger top and bottom and added blocking between . Came out perfect with addition rigidity. I upgraded all bolts to 5” ledgerloks from fasten master, added steel brace plates as well to each bolt. Used a Hydraulic Jack to lift the unit onto the wall bracket, leveled then bolted, custom cut holes for network and electrical pass through via rubber grommets.

Falcons - I got side tracked and am just now wall mounting my pro lockers and cabinets. A few questions if you don’t mind helping out.

1. Before you installed yours, you mentioned you were considering using a 2x10 ledger at the top. I’m guessing based on your pic and the distance between the wall mount bracket and the holes in the cabinet for mounting, that you ended up going with 2x12 (and using the 2x10 for the vertical support). It seems if a 2x10 is used, then the ledger locks would run through at the very bottom of the ledger and I’m concerned there would not be enough support vs using a 2x12 which would help avoid the bolt being at the very bottom of the ledger (hopefully this makes sense but I added a pic to show the issue ). Can you confirm you ended up using 2x12?

2. I also noticed you seem to be using shims in several places. Were these used so the support structure would be flush in all places? I can’t quite figure that one out given all support would be 1.5 inches wide.

Any final thoughts on this or other recommendations would be welcomed. Thanks again.
 

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falconx

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Falcons - I got side tracked and am just now wall mounting my pro lockers and cabinets. A few questions if you don’t mind helping out.

1. Before you installed yours, you mentioned you were considering using a 2x10 ledger at the top. I’m guessing based on your pic and the distance between the wall mount bracket and the holes in the cabinet for mounting, that you ended up going with 2x12 (and using the 2x10 for the vertical support). It seems if a 2x10 is used, then the ledger locks would run through at the very bottom of the ledger and I’m concerned there would not be enough support vs using a 2x12 which would help avoid the bolt being at the very bottom of the ledger (hopefully this makes sense but I added a pic to show the issue ). Can you confirm you ended up using 2x12?

2. I also noticed you seem to be using shims in several places. Were these used so the support structure would be flush in all places? I can’t quite figure that one out given all support would be 1.5 inches wide.

Any final thoughts on this or other recommendations would be welcomed. Thanks again.
I used 2x12’s on top mainly so I can have enough space to anchor 4 bolts: 1 for ledger. two for the bracket, 1 through the locker. All 4 ledgerlok bolts directly into stud. 2x10 may have worked it the 12’s gave me more space between the bolts vertically to minimize chance of the board from splitting

For the bottom I used 2x8 , and just drilled new holes from locker to anchor. For every bolt through locker I added a steel brace plate . Probably over kill but didn’t want to take any chances. I also ensured where the screws for the frame would not overlap wIt’s the bolts . Planned for every bolts

I did use shims on half of the wall because my wall wasnt straight

Hope this helps
 

stanimal #1

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Falconx - Thanks so much for the reply. I thought you may have used the 2x12's, as I noticed the same issue you mentioned about potential splitting. Looks like this larger size will do the job. I'm going with the steel brace plates as well, thanks to you. I never even thought of this until you mentioned it, so I appreciate the info.

My biggest challenge now is the corner...If the work tops on the base cabinets are not exactly flush with the front of the cabinets, then the worktop overhang causes a very large gap at the corner...I want some overhang, so I'm having a custom panel made to close the gap...then the only way to pull off the install is to attach the corner worktop and then simultaneously lift the corner worktop and the 2 base cabinets it connects with and mount it all at the same time. I'm guessing it is going to be a circus! But it will be worth it, as I think the cabinets look so much nicer when wall mounted. Thanks again for all the help! I'll shoot up some pics when complete.
 

Dig Doug

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Alright guys, After many months of delays and driving myself batshit crazy with the damn corner gap, I got everything wall hung. Happy to help anyone that wants tips. Special thanks to FalconX and others for passing on some well timed tips! Thanks guys! Enjoy!

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That sure looks SHARP !

Really love the clean & bright look!
that’s the same color I would go with …

Have Fun and Enjoy your garage time !
 

coltonq23

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Oct 29, 2023
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Alright guys, After many months of delays and driving myself batshit crazy with the damn corner gap, I got everything wall hung. Happy to help anyone that wants tips. Special thanks to FalconX and others for passing on some well timed tips! Thanks guys! Enjoy!

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Looks awesome ! Where did you get the slatwall?
 
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