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Garage ceiling insulation?

Ryan00TJ

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Sep 3, 2015
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Going to start insulating the ceiling of my attached 33x38' garage. There is a bonus room above garage. Will be heated/cooled in future. I used R19 Batts to insulate garage walls. Plan on caulking all ceiling wall joints before insulating. Wanting to use R30 in my climate. Northern WV.

What type should I use for these prefab I beam floor joists? Joists are 16" on center. 12" bottom of joist to upstairs subfloor. Do they make Batts for this application? Better idea's?

Appreciate any help. Thanks

 
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matt_i

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Personally I would use Roxul comfortbatt for the sound deadening and higher R- value. Its going to be more work to cut and fit.

I assume you are going to drywall afterwards. Imo, it would be a good idea to ready all electrical for present and future before you start installing insulation.
 

Hchrist

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Pretty sure a bonus room would make a drywall ceiling a code requirement no? That's how my local code anyway.
Really nice looking structure but it's missing the clutter. It needs a good dose of bicycles, lawn equipment, Christmas decoration, pet food and, of course, tools. [emoji2]
Have you considered spray foam insulation? It's high $ I know but, if the budget allows, it offers a lot more than other insulation. Then again stacking batts of fiberglass or wool will give you up to R20 I think.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)
 

moneyisflying

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If you have the money, no insulation known out there is going to insulate better than spray foam insulation. Its pricey, but will seal everything 100% and will do the best job of insulating you can get.

It my biggest regret when building my house that I did not use spray foam insulation. I didn't really know about it at the time, and my house is well insulated with a high R-value insulation. But my house is also on a hill and when the wind blows, my brand new high end geothermal furnace cannot keep up. Fortunately I have a very big fireplace and that heats the house well when the furnace cannot, but I know for a fact had I done the spay foam insulation I would not have the heating issues I currently am facing.
 

Hchrist

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Same. I built 8 years ago and really wish I used spray foam. There were very few (1) companies doing this in my area and it was priced out. I did do a sealed crawl space and this helps but, with 5.5 tons of heat pumps the electric is stupid.
I'd like to do my shop but the foam is still so expensive. I would think the kits would be less expensive but these are huge $ too.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)
 
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Ryan00TJ

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I appreciate all the responses. Quick search showed a few foam companies in the area. Calling them for a quote tomorrow and going from there. Thanks
 

crankshaftdan II

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Probably fiberglass batts would be the cheapest route and one you could do if so desired! Secondly no one else mentioned "Dense Pak" cellouse or treated newspaper blown in with a blower machine-probably in the same cost area and you could do it yourself with a rental machine from local Home improvement store where you purchase the bags of material? Foam by all means would be the best/most costly way-no drafts except in your wallet? Probably would need a vapor barrier of thick visquine all thru the ceiling and walls before 1/2" or 5/8" drywall covering. Don't know if there would be any issue with OFF-Gassing if you go with the foam in warmer weather up in the bonus room-might want to check with local bldg requirements as well as your insurance company on various rates as one would presume you have fiberglass insulation in the rest of the house. Just my two cent's worth!
 
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I second the ROXUL....they make R-30 for 16" Centers. Best stuff on the market. I am just completing a 72X42 shop/office and used Roxul in the walls and along the wall top plates. I would have used them it in the ceilings as well however I have scissor trusses so I had to go with FG batts with blow in cellulose on top. ROXUL is really a great product and very easy to work with.
 

tvtaurus

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I agree, my recomendation is spray foam insulation. Only downside, is garage will have to be emptied for install.
 
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Ryan00TJ

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OP used I-joists which have a 1" wider void than 2x lumber or trusses on same spacing.

Do they make rolls or batts specifically for I-joists on 16" centers?

Did some research and the Roxul looks like awesome stuff as stated. They state for engineered I joists at 16 OC to use their batts slated for steel construction. They are wider than wood version. Confirmed that on their website. Getting some quotes tomorrow.
 

Voi

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Did some research and the Roxul looks like awesome stuff as stated. They state for engineered I joists at 16 OC to use their batts slated for steel construction. They are wider than wood version. Confirmed that on their website. Getting some quotes tomorrow.

That's good to know. I have I-joists on both 16" and 19.2" centers that I've already spray foamed but I want to add some additional insulation to.

If you still have it cached on your browser can you link to the page where you looked that up? I'm on their website right now and haven't found it yet.

[EDIT] Never mind, found it.
 
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Radix2

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OP used I-joists which have a 1" wider void than 2x lumber or trusses on same spacing.

Do they make rolls or batts specifically for I-joists on 16" centers?

I have them in my TJI shop ceiling - and they are a tight fit. I have the R-38, which are factory made from 2 layers of R-19.

When installing my ceiling wiring, I pull down one layer and run the wire there through the center of the TJIs - it is tight enough that it stays to the top of the bays. If I had to do it over, it would be better to install a layer of R-19, wire and then install another layer.

I looked at the packaging, it is Owens Corning ref number W64 they measure a full 16in wide and 12 in thick.
 
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Ryan00TJ

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Received a quote for $2400 for spray foam. Open cell foam at 5" thick. Stated it would be R19.5. Is it me or isbthat alot of $$$ for a low R value. With the R38 batts it works out to $1300 and double the R value.
 

Voi

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Received a quote for $2400 for spray foam. Open cell foam at 5" thick. Stated it would be R19.5. Is it me or isbthat alot of $$$ for a low R value. With the R38 batts it works out to $1300 and double the R value.

I forgot to ask the going rate for open cell for my past project. Without doing the math it seems like the price you were quoted is well under half of what people have been paying for closed cell.

The important thing is to get the R value ratio of foam to fiberglass correct for your climate zone.

With R 19.5 in foam and approximately half of your I-joists left open that really only means you have room for around R-19 in fiberglass a bit more if you use mineral wool.

That ratio is good for up to Climate Zone 6. I'm assuming you're climate zone 4 or 5 and I'm not sure how those ratios change for your area other than to say you can likely use less spray foam and more fiberglass (or whatever).

When doing a combination of spray foam and any sort of other insulation the general rule of thumb is to spray the minimum amount of foam to create and vapor and air barrier and meet that ratio for your area and the depth you have available. Once you spray anything more than that the thought is you're wasting money. I don't think a 50/50 ratio for your area is necessarily a bad idea as it only increase your safety when it comes to dew point control.

I had ~3.5" of closed cell spray between 12" I-joists for the roof and cantilevered wood floor of my cabin (a completely open crawl space). From what I read open cell was a poor choice for this and I assume it would be as well for a garage under a living area.

Did the contractor specifically recommend open cell?
 
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Ryan00TJ

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I forgot to ask the going rate for open cell for my past project. Without doing the math it seems like the price you were quoted is well under half of what people have been paying for closed cell.

The important thing is to get the R value ratio of foam to fiberglass correct for your climate zone.

With R 19.5 in foam and approximately half of your I-joists left open that really only means you have room for around R-19 in fiberglass a bit more if you use mineral wool.

That ratio is good for up to Climate Zone 6. I'm assuming you're climate zone 4 or 5 and I'm not sure how those ratios change for your area other than to say you can likely use less spray foam and more fiberglass (or whatever).

When doing a combination of spray foam and any sort of other insulation the general rule of thumb is to spray the minimum amount of foam to create and vapor and air barrier and meet that ratio for your area and the depth you have available. Once you spray anything more than that the thought is you're wasting money. I don't think a 50/50 ratio for your area is necessarily a bad idea as it only increase your safety when it comes to dew point control.

I had ~3.5" of closed cell spray between 12" I-joists for the roof and cantilevered wood floor of my cabin (a completely open crawl space). From what I read open cell was a poor choice for this and I assume it would be as well for a garage under a living area.

Did the contractor specifically recommend open cell?

Yeah they recommended open cell for this application. As of right now I plan on using the R38 12" deep batts. With Lowes 30% off discount I can buy it for $869. It should fill in the joists nicely and R38 is overkill for my app. I'll post pics when done.
 

M-technik-3

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Yeah they recommended open cell for this application. As of right now I plan on using the R38 12" deep batts. With Lowes 30% off discount I can buy it for $869. It should fill in the joists nicely and R38 is overkill for my app. I'll post pics when done.

How are you getting 30% off at lowes for insulation? HD used to discount insulation with Military ID but that has since ended.

Roxol in a garage is great because its nonflammable as well. Spray Foam is best done when it's warm think 80 degrees so it sets up properly. I had two quotes done this year and one was $5500 the other one was close to 7000. I still planned to drywall afterward so this was far too much for my budget at the time.
 

Want2race

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With a room above I would recommend going with maximum R!

The room above mine is unusable right now which means I'll be pulling down the ceiling and spraying shortly
 

73RR

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How are you getting 30% off at lowes for insulation? HD used to discount insulation with Military ID but that has since ended.
.

The HD military discount is store-by-store, check with the store manager...tell him you are taking your business to Lowes.
Lowes also offers military discount and will cut additional 5% from a HD quote for the same product...at least at my store. It could also be a store-by-store deal, IDK.
 

M-technik-3

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Nice to know that or I'll just venture into the one outside the gate while still in my flightsuit. Seems to work, had a family buy us lunch the other day in line and I turned the favor to when walking out the door to a random couple.

It's nice when folks buy you a coffee but I don't expect them to spend 30 dollars on my lunch with 2 other co workers. Economy is slightly better but not spectacular.
 
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Ryan00TJ

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Started project this past weekend. Decided on Owens Corning BF72 R30. Batts are full 16" wide and friction fit nicely inside the joists. Kraft facing vapor retarder up against upstairs subfloor. I used spray foam to fully air seal the rim joist area before installing the batts. Only bought one pack to test fit right now.

 
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