SJMaye
Well-known member
My garage uses attic trusses on 2' centers. I had thought I would use drywall, but read about concerns with the weight of the drywall. Is the weight issue a real concern? What other options should I consider?
Garage Ceiling Material Options?
- Thread starter SJMaye
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jrsavoie
Well-known member
I would use steel
BillK
Well-known member
I would think that most trusses are designed to at least hold up a drywall ceiling. My entire house including the garage has trusses and drywall ceilings. The trusses are on 2' centers. Thats how all of the 1000 some houses in my neighborhood are built.
Is this an attached or detached garage ?
If it's attached, I would make sure to try to secure a firewall between the garage and living space using drywall where it's needed. Keep in mind its no guarantee that it will stop the spread of fire, if it ever happens.
If this is a detached garage, I'd suggest ribbed metal siding. It's one and done, no filling gaps, no seams to fill, no priming or painting.
If it's attached, I would make sure to try to secure a firewall between the garage and living space using drywall where it's needed. Keep in mind its no guarantee that it will stop the spread of fire, if it ever happens.
If this is a detached garage, I'd suggest ribbed metal siding. It's one and done, no filling gaps, no seams to fill, no priming or painting.
BillK
Well-known member
My house was built in 1978. I dont think you should be storing anything on them if they are not designed for weight from above.
Innovate1
Well-known member
Attic storage is somewhat of a different issue than weight of ceiling material. As others have said most trusses aren't rated for additional weight of storage but are typically rated for drywall ceiling or something similar. If it is existing then any fire break between house and garage should already be done. A lot of times this is vertical drywall up to the roof on the wall between the garage and house. I used steel for my detached garage - it goes up quick and no mudding or painting (it's prepainted). If the space has HVAC then you need to seal up the edges of the steel which isn't a huge job. They make steel similar to what is used on roofs but a lighter gauge just for ceilings.
Some areas around here require some blocking making it difficult to get in the attic and a sign at the entrance about no storage. This is to prevent people from storing stuff. If you get trusses rated for slightly higher loading in the open areas (think it was where something like a 4' x 2' piece was able to fit) then you don't have to block off the entrance. I live outside that area but still asked for the slightly higher rating. I had the truss drawings without the additional note. When I asked for the additional loading note I got back exactly the same designs with the note.
Can you get the original drawings? Most trusses can likely take some LIGHT additional load without any issue. The problem is once you start putting stuff up there it is easy to forget about how much the stuff weighs and it adds up.
Some areas around here require some blocking making it difficult to get in the attic and a sign at the entrance about no storage. This is to prevent people from storing stuff. If you get trusses rated for slightly higher loading in the open areas (think it was where something like a 4' x 2' piece was able to fit) then you don't have to block off the entrance. I live outside that area but still asked for the slightly higher rating. I had the truss drawings without the additional note. When I asked for the additional loading note I got back exactly the same designs with the note.
Can you get the original drawings? Most trusses can likely take some LIGHT additional load without any issue. The problem is once you start putting stuff up there it is easy to forget about how much the stuff weighs and it adds up.
laser3kw
Well-known member
my garage has "ceiling rated" drywall. It is glued and screwed to the trusses.
kelpaso1
MEMBER EMERITUS
My garage ceiling is unfinished with just insulation and VB. I wonder if the extra cost of metal vs drywall is worth it. Goes up faster, no joints to mud, and no painting.
Innovate1
Well-known member
5/8 is a good choice for 2' spans. If you have the drawings they should state what bottom cord and top cord loading they are designed for.
Innovate1
Well-known member
Just noticed you said attic trusses. Is that what you have? Attic trusses are designed for a room above the ceiling. If true attic trusses they should be designed for additional weight of the things that are in a room, drywall for the walls, flooring materials, etc but maybe could be designed only for light storage. The drawings will have the details.
Here's a link to an attic truss. No connection to me, it's just what I found quickly with google.
https://www.northernbuilt.pro/construction-design-attic-truss/
laser3kw
Well-known member
This^^
I also have attic trusses. My attic area was finished with 3/4" t&g osb floor and the lower side was 1/2" ceiling rated dry wall. The attic walls were insulated and drywall. My attic is just for storage.
jrsavoie
Well-known member
Is steel really more expensive than drywall?
Depends. Material cost, I'm sure that metal is more expensive.
If you are writing a check to have it done, I'd guess the drywall installation and finishing is going to up the cost to the higher total.
If you are doing sweat equity, the drywall maybe be the best choice if you like finishing it. I don't, I'll pay more for steel in the initial cost.
gallagher
Member
I just finished my attached garage. I did plywood (can’t remember exact thickness but it was pretty solid and purchased at the peak of the recent spike, fml). Then 5/8 drywall mounted to the plywood. I am installing NewAge steel 4x8 shelves over each of the garage doors and they hang off the wall with cables that suspend from ceiling. Didn’t want to take the chance that the spacing on the trusses would be exactly aligned with where cables need to attached so I can just got straight into the plywood. Also allows me to hang anything I want from ceiling anywhere in the garage without a second thought. Well worth the additional cost and effort in my opinion.
How thick of plywood?
I can't imagine hanging anything really heavy, like the shelves you mention, screwed into plywood. You could have several hundred pounds on one screw. Even a toggle bolt would bow the plywood down a bit.
I can't imagine hanging anything really heavy, like the shelves you mention, screwed into plywood. You could have several hundred pounds on one screw. Even a toggle bolt would bow the plywood down a bit.
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
metal roofing or siding here. No way I'd spend money on plywood and then drywall, and then have to paint it, then have to keep it clean. metal is one and done, cleans up easily.
As other have mentioned, on a detached structure I'd hang metal liner panel as long as you don't have especially noisy hobbys...I wouldn't use for a blacksmithing ship but mechanic work or woodworking no problem. It probably will be higher material cost but the labor is dramatically less and faster to complete. I did drywall on my last garage ceiling and I should have done liner panel.
If its attached, 5/8" drywall. If it's a garage attached on one wall without the house above it you could put a firewall vertically all the way to the peak on that shared wall, then do metal or something else horizontal on the trusses.
If its attached, 5/8" drywall. If it's a garage attached on one wall without the house above it you could put a firewall vertically all the way to the peak on that shared wall, then do metal or something else horizontal on the trusses.
Off the top of my head,an inch I think. I'd have to measure to be sure.
spudley
Well-known member
The ribs are under an inch. If you do the work, drywall will be less than half of what metal would cost and will weigh 5X as much.
bbxlr8
Well-known member
I have always had wood on the walls and drywall on ceiling.
However, the folks above suggesting metal roofing and or siding are on to something.
Was recently in a friend of friends' new build. He did this and it blew me away - I would definitely do this starting fresh
See below:
However, the folks above suggesting metal roofing and or siding are on to something.
Was recently in a friend of friends' new build. He did this and it blew me away - I would definitely do this starting fresh
See below:
Attachments
I wouldn't want vinyl soffit for my ceiling.
The smaller the panels of whatever you use, the harder it is going to be to keep it straight with more joints.
The smaller the panels of whatever you use, the harder it is going to be to keep it straight with more joints.
You're right Logan. I made my own J-channel and it was an inch tall to allow a little slide/fit for the panels.Tough to read due to resolution but the Menards brand is 3/4" tall
