Garage Construction: second attempt

[Boneill230]

Yes, doing this again. After thinking about my last post I did on this topic idk where my head was on my ideas. Tried finding a way to delete the post but I don't think you can lol, happens to all of us I guess, important thing Is I did learn some stuff from peoples comments/ideas. Anyway I changed the idea to a 35' wide by 40' deep. 1-16' door, 1-12' door. Doors will be roughly 1' apart in the center and 3 feet from the side walls to allow for workbenches, cabinets ect. down the line. As for ceiling height I wanted to go with 16' ceilings. Reason being to put a 2 post lift in it. I purchased this chief architect software to play around with some ideas before I go to an engineer/architect to get prints made for the township to approve the plans.

I would think I could do load supporting columns between the 2 garage doors so there would be an open space of roughly 19' and 15'. The one thing I'm kind of stumped on is how the framing of the walls would go. With 16' ceilings I would assume framing with 2x6 is a must. Now to get the 16' what is the best option? 4' stem wall of concrete or block and use 12' 2x6 to achieve the 16'? or are there different ways of framing?

Will try to answer any questions as they come, thanks!

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Just use 16' 2x6 on flat slab or subtract whatever height stem walls you choose to go with.

If you're planning on installing sheetrock to the walls and ceiling, you would want to cut the studs to 188-1/4"

 

[matt_i]

A small increase in height of the concrete always helps get wood higher off the ground. That said, I would want to make sure there was plenty of steel reinforcing between the slab and the row(s) of block if it isn't poured from a form.

I think you have to have center blocking for the sidewall height greater than 10'. I would also make sure to run T- or flat metal diagonal bracing...Simpson has both...to give more racking resistance.

Another thought is you will probably need some sort of crane service to erect the walls and set the trusses. Thats a fair way up there.

Personally I wouldn't do any center posts unless you are planning for a 2nd story floor of some sort, as then you need to build perpendicular beams to support joist ends or centers. The trusses should be able to clear-span without any supports imo.

 

[Boneill230]

TOOL_FOOL
With using 16' 2x6s horizontal bracing in between the joists is really the only thing you need to do in order to do a full stud wall instead of the stem wall? As far as the ceiling I was actually thinking of putting like a white corrugated steel, ive seen some people do it and it looks good IMO, and takes the pain out of doing sheetrock 16' up lol

matt_i

Yes a crane service or renting equipment would be in order to do the usses for sure. Ad they make trusses that can span a width that wide? didn't know that, quite a span. I think a 4' stem wall would be a bit much maybe like a 2' would be better, with that said would a formed or block wall be better in your opinion

 

[forAK]

TOOL_FOOL
With using 16' 2x6s horizontal bracing in between the joists is really the only thing you need to do in order to do a full stud wall instead of the stem wall?

This has me confused.

Regardless, I think you're going to have shear issues big time with only a 1' space between the garage doors unless this is on the non-gable side. Still though, that's a tight space between the doors. Do you really need 2 doors if one is 16'?

 

[Boneill230]

forAK (fyi I just do this instead of quoting, takes less space)

I think by your comment your just talking about the front wall of the garage. I'm trying to figure out the framing of the 16' walls in general not just where the doors are. The space/location of the garage doors isn't dead set there's room for them to move a bit if needed. Clear it up? By the horizontal bracing I mean bridging in between the studs for added rigidity.
As for the 2 doors its what I want, I think that is a good enough reason. And no I am not trying to sound like an A-hole by saying that don't take it the wrong way lol

 

[forAK]

LOL - no worries. On a 16' tall wall you'd need to have fire blocking installed on it anyway, so yes you'd just put that blocking up in between the studs.
Is the roof going to shed in front of the garage doors?

 

[Boneill230]

forAK, this is the initial design I made for the roof. I apologize for the lines its off my phone I haven't figured out how to take a still picture on the software yet. Changed the roof color so you can see it better. Reason being for the shed going towards the existing house I thought it would be easier if I decide to add a second floor on the house down the line.

 

[matt_i]

I think a 4' stem wall would be a bit much maybe like a 2' would be better, with that said would a formed or block wall be better in your opinion

Personally I feel like a poured wall, with vertical and horizontal rebar, is going to be stronger than the best block wall. The block wall might seem cheaper via quotes but make sure they are chipping the webs out to lay perimeter rebars and then core-filling the blocks with grout to solidify. Just an open stack of blocks w no reinforcement is too weak in my opinion, especially for such a large building. You should lay out the anchor bolt locations ahead of time, and I would be present at that stage to help the crew lay those out per the drawing. Not a lot of time when the 'crete is setting. Getting one wrong isn't the end of the world but is more costly to fix with epoxied studs.

 

[Boneill230]

Anyone else?