Garage Cooling Options

[rock324]

I'm a newbie to this whole garage cooling topic but I've been reading up on a few threads about it. I'd like to get some opinions from you guys to see what I can do to get my garage cooler than it is now.
I live outside New Orleans so it gets pretty hot and humid during the summer. We live in a newly built house and I have a 3-car attached garage that is about 700sq ft with 2 windows and unfortunately only 1 wall is insulated. Above the garage is framed out for having a "playroom" type area and we will probably start building that out in the next 3-5 yrs. Currently, my 2 labs sleep in the garage at night and all I have is 2 box fans for them to keep the air moving. I know it gets hot as hell in there so I was wondering what my options would be to cool it off a bit (for them and for me).
-Due to HOA restrictions, window units are not a option
-Routing the A/C to the garage is probably not an option that I am interested in
-Since the walls are drywalled and painted, I'm not sure adding insulation those 2 walls is an option either
1) Would insulating the ceiling help alot? The area above the garage that is framed out gets hot as hell. Also, would that affect anything once I go to build out the playroom?
2) If I were to use a portable a/c, would I just need to cut through the drywall and brick in order to a vent? What size portable a/c should I look at for this size? Obviously most of the work I do and the area where the dogs sleep is confined to about 300sq ft.
3) Would insulating my garage doors be a viable option? Would it help my current situation? If I were to do this, I'd want it to look as clean as possible and very noticeable. What product would you recommend? And once I install, how should I change the torque so that it adjusts for the added weight?

Sorry for the beginner/newbie questions. I'm just hoping to get some ideas from you guys given my current situation. Thanks for the help.

Cheers

 

[Trey T]

For a cleanest look, a typical split system needs to be installed with air ducts. The next best thing and popular is to use the "mini-split" system that does not have air duct. I believe it's cheaper both long and short term to get the mini-split system.

 

[Travinsky]

I also am curious about insulating the attic in my garage as well as the door..

 

[Bwana]

Yes, split system is the way to go. We use them at our camps overseas and they are excellent.

https://www.goductless.com/Fujitsu-Air-Conditioners/ASU12RLF-12000-BTU-Single-Multi-Zone-Ductless-Heat-Pump-Air-Handler/14463.ac?gclid=CMTs25DgkL8CFUcV7Aodz1QAUw

I am near houston so I have a similar environment. I have insulated the garage doors (metal roll up) with styrafoam to great effect. The styrafoam fits into the metal grooves that support each door section. The sun hits the door in the afternoon and you can really tell the insulation is there (or not!).

Edit: I'm currently running a Sears window unit, mounted thru the wall. There are enough woods behind my shop nobody can see it. When/if it bails (soon I think), I'm going to replace it with a split system.

Too bad about the drywall already installed. There is a option for spray in foam (as seen on TV ) but somebody else will have to chime in, I'm no expert.

I've filled in the rafters with the blow in stuff from Lowes which worked pretty well at first. It has now settled and probably needs to be re-blown. Solid insulation may have been a better choice.

 

[mo2872]

A/C, I'd go mini-split.

Insulating the doors, tons of people on here(myself included) have DIY'd with the blue foam board. Like so:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1010680&postcount=63

 

[Bwana]

^^^^^^^ Exactly! Easy and works great

 

[rock324]

So it sounds like I should start with doing the garage doors....baby steps. Will I notice a big difference?
What should I use that looks the best and how do I go about doing it? Also, what about changing the torque settings? How do I measure and change those on the motor?

 

[mo2872]

Measuring tape, straight edge, and a box knife......

Torque.....shouldn't have to mess with that, as the blue foam is really light.

 

[rock324]

Measuring tape, straight edge, and a box knife......

Torque.....shouldn't have to mess with that, as the blue foam is really light.

Thanks for this. Should I notice a big difference from doing this? Also, are there some instructions on how to do it and what type of foam I should use?

 

[rock324]

OK, so I've decided to insulate my garage doors. I need to figure out my next steps and I appreciate any other insight
1) Would insulating the ceiling help alot? The area above the garage that is framed out gets hot as hell. Also, would that affect anything once I go to build out the playroom?
2) Mini-split systems look to be out of my price range. If I were to use a portable a/c, would I just need to cut through the drywall and brick in order to a vent? What size portable a/c should I look at for this size? Obviously most of the work I do and the area where the dogs
sleep is confined to about 300sq ft.

Thanks guys

 

[theoldwizard1]

MINI-SPLIT !

Get a 2 zone unit, one for the garage and one for the "playroom". Insulation, especially upstairs is IMPERATIVE !

 

[sands35]

You will not want the connect the house AC to the garage. That is a code violation and just not common sense. The play room may be, but only if it is not connected to the garage.

YES insulate the ceiling and everything else you can. Ensure proper venting of the roof.

There are companies that will spray insulation into finished wall cavities. Typically for much older homes, but the technology will work for new houses too. A small hole is all you need.

 

[Mach5]

I got a portable ac unit and ducted it into the attic. It's not terribly pretty, powerful or efficient, but it does make a difference. If your dogs slept close to it they should stay cool enough. Just make sure they have plenty of water. My main issue with my portable unit is that it doesn't move a lot of air, so there are warm and cool spots. I plan to install a cheap contractor grade ceiling fan to help circulate the air in the garage. I definitely think you should insulate first. I did that and even with the AC off I don't think it has gotten above 85F in my garage despite the fact that we've had 106+F daily temps. The one thing that is different for us is the lack of humidity. So with that in mind if you get a portable unit look at how you access the water tray. You'll need to plan for service access for that and the filter. That or build some system to allow it to drain out. Good luck. Let us know what you end up doing.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[Radix2]

Unless you have some cool air moving into that space, I don't see how insulation is going to do anything but slow the warm up and cool down of the space (which would help in the Am and hurt in the PM).

At any rate, you need to solve the playroom temperature problem, and that will help some in the room below it, don't see much use in insulating that floor if the goal is to make both the playroom and garage cooler.

If you are going to do something to get some cool into the garage, then absolutely the first thing to do is insulate the door. As for the walls, remember that drywall is very cheap, IMO people go to too much expense to save it - I would find a way to insulate there if you go much further.

 

[Travinsky]

Where can I get blue styrofoam, I didn't see it in HD website?

Like speed racer (Mach5) I am on a budget and will get a portable for ~$400 with a couple $50 fans. The mini splits look great but $900 for the kit, then an electrician, then an HVAC pro really adds up to ~1200-$1500.

Like rock324, I also will be taking baby steps, excellent thread.

 

[mo2872]

Lowes blue foam board:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_15348-46086...rd&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=foam+board&facetInfo=

HD pink foam board:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...sulating-Sheathing-36L/100320356?N=5yc1vZbaxx


rock324, yes, you will notice a difference in the amount of heat radiating through the door after foaming. My shop door was an oven, now it's not. You still get some heat, from the exposed metal, but not as much.

 

[Travinsky]

Lowes blue foam board:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_15348-46086...rd&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=foam+board&facetInfo=

Thanks for the link

 

[Trey T]

Does anyone use reflective insulation on their garage door?

If so, how did you do it and was it effective?

 

[Bogey won]

Lousyanna,? (Jus kiddn) damn heat and humidity,(No joke) quit ******* around and put in that used double wide ac/heat 5ton unit(or smaller) and be done with it.Costs me less than 1k to get it done.,now,14 degrees out the 14 inch hole.

You can thank me later,mini splits,no experience,but the self contained unit of a double wide that suppose to cool 5k sq ft,that cools 400 to 800sq ft i can rave all day,check out Craigs list,Louisiana full of double wides,find one.

Check out the other thread on ac stuff that's on here at present.

 

[rock324]

Unless you have some cool air moving into that space, I don't see how insulation is going to do anything but slow the warm up and cool down of the space (which would help in the Am and hurt in the PM).

At any rate, you need to solve the playroom temperature problem, and that will help some in the room below it, don't see much use in insulating that floor if the goal is to make both the playroom and garage cooler.

If you are going to do something to get some cool into the garage, then absolutely the first thing to do is insulate the door. As for the walls, remember that drywall is very cheap, IMO people go to too much expense to save it - I would find a way to insulate there if you go much further.

So, I'm going insulate doors and it looks like my only option is try out a mini-split in the garage. Since above the garage is not built out yet, what type of insulation should I put on the garage ceiling? Do I need to address that for now or should I worry about that once I start building that part out?
Thanks for the responses!

 

[txbonds]

I had foam inserts put in garage door, low expanding foam pumped into all 4 walls, blown in fiber insulation over ceiling and radiant barrier on the rafters. When combined with an 18k btu Mitsubishi mini split it will get down to 55 degrees on a 105 degree July day and can recover from a door open in a matter of minutes.

 

[Slowbra]

I had foam inserts put in garage door, low expanding foam pumped into all 4 walls, blown in fiber insulation over ceiling and radiant barrier on the rafters. When combined with an 18k btu Mitsubishi mini split it will get down to 55 degrees on a 105 degree July day and can recover from a door open in a matter of minutes.

How large is your garage?

I'm keeping an eye on this thread to see what system people are going with so I can relate it to my setup. My garage is fully insulated as are the doors. Only thing left is picking out a system, but I don't want to buy one that does the entire garage (~1800sqft) due to cost. I just want to focus on one side (~900sqft) where I work regularly.

 

[txbonds]

How large is your garage?

I'm keeping an eye on this thread to see what system people are going with so I can relate it to my setup. My garage is fully insulated as are the doors. Only thing left is picking out a system, but I don't want to buy one that does the entire garage (~1800sqft) due to cost. I just want to focus on one side (~900sqft) where I work regularly.

It's only 22x20 with 10 foot ceiling. They originally installed a 9k btu unit but it couldn't keep up. Had them remove and replace but went 18k rather than 12k so I have faster response given big door. If you have opening doors I would suggest going larger than the charts say for given sq footage.

For 900 to 1800 you will need larger and/or multiple indoor units I think. For example you could get one that has a 36k btu outdoor unit with 2 or 3 indoor units so you could control it as individual zones. Make sense?

 

[Slowbra]

It's only 22x20 with 10 foot ceiling. They originally installed a 9k btu unit but it couldn't keep up. Had them remove and replace but went 18k rather than 12k so I have faster response given big door. If you have opening doors I would suggest going larger than the charts say for given sq footage.



For 900 to 1800 you will need larger and/or multiple indoor units I think. For example you could get one that has a 36k btu outdoor unit with 2 or 3 indoor units so you could control it as individual zones. Make sense?

In my case I don't want to cool the entire area. The area is a 35x26 with 18' vaulted/hip ceiling. My thought was to install a fan at the top of the ceiling to move the air around and combine it with a mini-split. The area will have 1 large 18' garage door. As you can imagine, budget was destroyed by the construction and I need to keep the costs as low as possible. Right now it's being cooled (vast overstatement) by 2 floor fans.

 

[mo2872]

I have an 18k mini in a 950 sq ft shop, and it'll freeze me out......though it does take a little time to recover from opening the big door.

 

[codeadidas]

I am basically in the same boat. I live in Baton Rouge/St. Gabriel in a newly built (2013) house. We have a 2 car garage (500 SF), and it gets way to hot to work in right now. The attic space above the garage is un-insulated so my plans are as follows:

1. Seal any gaps, electrical boxes in attic above garage (done).
2. Spray cellulose insulation. (doing this weekend)
3. Home Depot sells garage door Insulator kits that are decently priced. Install two of those.

Once I do this I will decide on portable a/c or fans. I heard doing the few things listed above makes a BIG difference in temperature. I will report back once completed to let you know how well this worked.

A split unit is out of my price range right now. Amazon has good priced Pioneer units, but once I would factor in installation and me breaking something, it would be easy to think $1000 for everything.

 

[R7237]

I would not oversize whatever AC unit you get (Mini or traditional). most are not only sized for the amount of cooling, but to also ensure that it runs long enough to dehumidify the air. 78 degrees in low relative humidity with fans is much more comfortable than humid air at 78 degrees that is stagnant. just my 2 cents

 

[DEnd]

So, I'm going insulate doors and it looks like my only option is try out a mini-split in the garage. Since above the garage is not built out yet, what type of insulation should I put on the garage ceiling? Do I need to address that for now or should I worry about that once I start building that part out?
Thanks for the responses!

Yes you should address that now. You should also ensure that you have a good air-seal between the garage and the living spaces. If you have a good energy auditor around they should be able to pressurize the house or garage(with a blower door) and perform a smoke test to see if you have any air leakages. This required air-sealing is why you should insulate it now. With that the only way for energy to transfer between the playroom and garage is through the building materials, since it won't be insulated and there will likely be a temperature difference at high humidity levels you could easily get condensation on those building materials.

I'm assuming you have knee walls in the play room. I recommend you insulate the entire roof line, and not garage ceiling to kneewall to playroom ceiling. If you do choose to go the insulated kneewall route please follow the details as described here: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...at-architects-need-know-about-attic-kneewalls

As for the insulation choice, if you have the air-sealing taken care of I'd use Rock Wool. And don't forget the double layer of type X drywall with off-set seams, and fire caulked penetrations.

 

[homes for sale milwaukie]

Thanks for this information about garage cooling.

 

[Travinsky]

Great thread and did not know HD had garage door insulation kits. Just waiting for a insulation sale. In South Florida what R value should I use above the garage in a 1-story home?