garage design/killer deal

[PurdueSD]

So, this spring i am going to tear my old shop down and start fresh. It needs a roof, siding and the trusses are sagging badly and its not tall enough. On top of all this the approach/departure angles are rediculous. In the end it will be cheaper to just start fresh so i can do it the way i want to.

Here's what ive got planned. Going to have attic storage trusses, brick front. I picked up 3 doors today at a liquidation sale. Got a killer deal, i was in shock. (2) 10'x8' raynor insulated doors (1) 10x10 comerical insulated door all with all springs/harware and tracks. Picked them up for $125 a peice I couldnt believe it (they are all brand new)

The thing i cant decide on is ceiling height. I though about a 2 post lift, but decided against it. I really dont think i will ever justify having one. So i have been thinking 10' ceiling height. The problem is i ran across these doors and now i cant fit a 10' door in a 10' ceiling. I could take a panel out of the commercial door making it 8.5' but i hate to do that. I'm afraid to go to tall because my house only has 8' eaves and is a ranch. What do you all suggest.

 

[PAToyota]

From the picture it doesn't look like the garage is anywhere close to the house - so I wouldn't let the house height dictate garage height. Next, having extra ceiling height is never a problem. Having something too short is... Just look at the posts asking if you can raise a garage roof! I'd go with the twelve foot ceilings and the 10' doors and maybe in a few years you'll find that you're thinking about that 2-post lift anyway!

 

[TNToy]

I still can't believe how many people are putting cubic dollars into their shops, and not installing lifts. To each his own... I suppose if you want someone else to do the wrench turning and just write a check, that makes perfect sense. I just don't think that way.

Looks like you've put some thought into the dimesion - could you identify all of the mysterious icons around the walls?

Personally, I'd build it taller. You can always use the extra space for shelves and overhead storage, and it lights more evenly. Building up is cheaper than building out.

 

[PurdueSD]

I still can't believe how many people are putting cubic dollars into their shops, and not installing lifts. To each his own... I suppose if you want someone else to do the wrench turning and just write a check, that makes perfect sense. I just don't think that way.

First things first, no one does my wrench turning for me. Ive got an superduty i lifted myself, a grandwagooner im doing a partial restoration, a 54 chevy p/u im doing a frame off custom, and a highly modded fox body mustang. I just cant justify the need for one. The biggest drawback to me is the thing is there sitting in the way when you arent using it.

I will want to occassionally heat the shop and the added ceiling height robs all the heat from the ground level. Thats one of the reasons i was thinking 10 foot. Pluss all your lighting is that much further away. Maybe i should just bite the bullet and go 12 feet. I dunno

 

[PurdueSD]

The stuff around the walls is just assoted stuff. Toolbox, fridge, 4 wheeler, wood burner, sink, work benches, computer, band saw, etc.

 

[Ironcrow]

Yes, you want a lift. Three cars, work space....of course you need a lift. What are you thinking?

A ridge beam over one bay or maybe a sissors truss can make ceiling room. Perhaps you can get the lift clearance without disturbing the existing roof line. the garage door can roll up against the angled ceiling.

 

[boiler7904]

I think there are a few ways to accomodate the 10' door and not put a 12 'ceiling in the entire building.

Option 1 - Put a 10' ceiling in the entire building with a 12' tall bay at one end or in the middle. The 56' x 30' you sketch remains unchanged except for a possible small bumpout.

Option 2 - Front load the building with a 10' eave height (2 8' doors) and use a 12' eave height on the back with the 10' door in one end. From your pic of the existing building, it looks like you could have access to the end of the building. Dimensions of building get changed to suit your needs.

 

[mikeyr]

Well if you look at the way the space is distributed on his design, its mostly toys and cars, not a real workshop so no lift is needed. Although I see in a later post he said he is doing a restoration on a Wagoneer, I don't see any designated tool/bench space. Having said all that, a taller ceiling does distribute light better but its also less bright, I am getting old I need that BRIGHT light to see, I went with a 9ft. ceiling and removed some rafters under the lift to get a little more. I can't stand under the lift with a full size truck but I can stand under my car when the top and windshield is folded down, just have to be careful when lifting. 9ft. allows me to have bright lights everywhere and keeps the heat where I am rather than 12ft. up.

If I had that garage, I would put a 4post lift in one of the bays and store 2 cars there, the less driven one on top. That would free up a bay for tools/workbench. Based on the drawing that would be a ideal shop layout for me. 4post on the far right bay, tools and workbench in the middle bay and my scissor lift on the left bay recessed into the floor...perfect. And I would go with a 9ft. ceiling except under the 4post to help with the heating and lighting.

 

[PurdueSD]

I,ve got an attached 2 car garage that is simply for wives mustang(dd) and my mustang. (it was my first car and its not worth a whole lot to anyone but me)

So for the shop, 3 main vehicles will be housed inside.
1. F-250 lifted that sits at about 8' -Daily Driver-This one needs the 10 ft door or 8.5' of it if i take one panel out anyways

2. Grand Wagoneer- Ive got the whole interior out of it putting floor pans in and redoing the interor ( this ones not worth a whole lot either, but its great to throw the dogs in and just have fun)

3. 54 chevy pick-up that is in pieces right now. Ive got alot of the body work done, and i want to start on sub framing and drivetrain.

The far left will be a walled of room with a small sliding barn door for all of the yard stuff. I didnt the whole 30 foot so i was thinking about a small desk up front with an old computer ive got.

With a 48' back wall and 28 or 30' of depth i figured thats where ill put my work benches/tool boxes etc. Ive also got the upstairs loft for storage. I was going to use attic trusses so i could barely walk down the middle and store fenders and such on the sides.

I did the lift on my 250 myself and yeah i agree a 2- post would have been a lifesaver, but i still got it done with jack stands and a could rolling floor jacks. I am not a full time fabricator to say the least. I try to do all the work on my cars, except engine work other than bolt on stuff. I enjoy working on projects and if i could i would love to build an even bigger shop. We are not moving for the rest of our lives so i want to this right within reason. The design did was just so i could get something on paper and start looking at hom much room i would actually have. I just threw some stuff in there so i could see how space would work out.

I would really like the far right bay or left bay to be for my truck. Keep it out of harms way as much as possible.

No its not a true fab shop and i really dont want it to be. It is a toy/tool/work shop.

thanks for the input, keep it coming ...

 

[monkeyplasm]

You want the 10' door for the F250, otherwise 8.5' door with something in the truck bed = something knocked out of the truck bed going into the garage.

You can do attic trusses over left and central bays, then scissor over the right bay - plenty of height for the lift - the scissors add a lot of height when they're 30 feet deep.

Get the lift, they're cheap enough to add to the project without breaking the bank...and you're not getting younger. I've 'sacked up and made do' often enough while building Internationals over the years, but now just can't be bothered to roll around the floor anymore, let alone fiddle around unnecessarily with jackstands and wood blocks. You'll get to the same point, too. Best be prepared ahead of time.

 

[PurdueSD]

Well, i think i am going to go ahead and do the 11 or 12' ceiling height. I will be kicking myself later if i dont. As of right now i am not going to poor a thicker slab around where a would go. I really am not digging the idea of a 2 poster, i just dont want to loose the floor space around the bay my daily driver parks in. Just not justifyable.

The garage is going to be stick built with footer/block foundation. Brick front and viynl sides/back. I think i am going to go with a make a high lift track for the 8' doors to get them up out of the way. I am think of going with the liftmaster 3800 or comparable

Thanks for all the replies. Im sure i'll change my mind at least a couple times in the next couple months.

One last question. What type of opener should i look at for the comercial 10'2'' x10'2'' door? What are all the rest of you using? Its got to be remote operable. It really doesnt have to be a jack shaft opener either. The typical 7x9 door openers wont work because they dont have enough stroke.

 

[carguy123]

Another thing you will kick yourself over later is 3 single car garage doors. Life is SOOOOOO much easier with at least one double door!!

 

[PurdueSD]

Another thing you will kick yourself over later is 3 single car garage doors. Life is SOOOOOO much easier with at least one double door!!

Really? I intentially designed it that way. I need to park 3 vehicles. Ive currently got 16" doors and hate them. I want the extra space in between vehicles.

 

[LetsJet]

The garage is going to be stick built with footer/block foundation. Brick front and viynl sides/back. I think i am going to go with a make a high lift track for the 8' doors to get them up out of the way. I am think of going with the liftmaster 3800 or comparable

.

Just installed the 3800 and it works great. I don't know how long it will last but it is very quiet and smooth. My other door has a standard liftmaster with belt and it's louder.

 

[Sack]

I agree Purdue. Not everyone needs a lift and everyone has a different goal for their garage. My view, which may not agree with everyone's (but it is mine ), is that it depends on the type of work that you want to do. So if this setup works for you with no lift then ya don't need one.

I plan on getting a lift, but not everyone needs one. And the fact that it's in the way when not being used is the main reason I don't have it now.