Garage Design

[central1ny]

Hi all. I am getting very close to starting my garage build. I have nearly completed the meter relocation which was the first step. I wanted to present my design to the group to see if anyone had any comments or suggestions for me.

My current house is approx. 28x50 and the plan is to add a new breezeway or addition of 8x18 to a gable end of the house and then attach a 28x40 2-door garage. The basic design specs are as follows:

Foundation Footer
Size: 16” (w) x 12” (d)
Depth: Below frost line
Strength: 3000 PSI
Rebar: As done per industry standard (Was planning on going with whatever concrete guy suggests)

Foundation Walls
Concrete blocks
(2) Courses above ground level
Anchor bolts in top course for wall attachment, at locations specified in plan
Parge outside of exposed wall
Top Course 6” block

Garage Slab
Base: 6” crushed stone compacted - Check with contractors on practice
Strength: 4000 psi
Thickness: 4”
#4 rebar 16” grid – sitting on plastic rebar chairs
wire mesh also?
Vapor barrier: 6-millimeter (mil) polyethylene?
Slope down to garage door (pitch to be determined)
Expansion joint material between slab and walls
Soft cut control joints in 10x12 pattern

Breezeway Slab
Base: 6” crushed stone - Check with contractors on practice
Strength: 4000 psiThickness: 4”
6x6 #10 wire mesh
Vapor barrier: 6-millimeter polyethylene?
Level, no slope
Foam board insulation under slab
Expansion joint material between slab and walls

Wall Construction
2x6 Studs
1/2" OSB Sheathing
Vinyl siding

Roof Construction
5/12 pitch
Truss design, 16" O.C.
23/32" OSB
Architectural asphalt shingles

Doors
(2) 9'x7' overhead garage doors
(1) 8'x7' overhead garage door

 

[Nighttrain]

Don't see a reason for the wire mess and the rebar, unless someone else here has seen this. And why the foam in the breeze way? Is this going to be inclosed?

 

[central1ny]

Don't see a reason for the wire mess and the rebar, unless someone else here has seen this. And why the foam in the breeze way? Is this going to be inclosed?

The breeze way is actually a small addition to attach the garage to the house so yes it will be enlclosed. The foam board is optional. I will be framing a floor but I am trying to avoid having a crawlspace as I am trying to make the addition as energy efficient as possible.

 

[holdover]

I suppose 8' walls so it doesn't over power the looks of the residence? I would replace the two 9X7 doors with a 8 X 18 and put sissor truss 5/12 outside, 3/12 inside pitch(at least in the front part of the garage) to give you clrnc for a future lift and for the extra height garage door. The 18" wide door will also get rid of some of the dead space of parking the vehicles close to the walls, and allow the walls for shelves/tool boxes etc and also get rid of the center support required with the two doors.. just a thought

 

[327-365hp]

That looks good! I like the layout, might be nice to have a man door in the front left corner of the garage so your buddies don't have to track through your wife's house! Or put a door in the breezway, that's what I did. It's more of a mudroom with closets for all the coats and shoes. I agree with Nighttrain, you don't need rebar, just go with the mesh in the floor. What's the reason for the expansion joint material at the edge of the floor, I didn't use that on my 30x 40, my slab shrank. I like holdover's idea for the scissor trusses, it's not crazy money to go that way but it still might not give you enough height unless you put the lift in the middle of the floor.

 

[thammel]

I have multiple comments. Your plans shows a 24' wide garage but you say it's going to be 28' wide. If 28', that's ok but I think you would want it wider than 24'. It depends on what you plan to do in it. If you are going to work on your cars, you'll want it at least 28' wide. What's the rear room for? A shed? Also, if you ever want to put in a lift, you might want the floor thicker than 4". But with only an 8' ceiling, that kinda' eliminates a future lift. Put 2" foam under the garage floor in case you ever want to heat it (will minimize heat losses). Also, why not go for a crawlspace? It will be much easier to make changes and take care of future plumbing/electrical work with a crawlspace. You can insulate the crawlspace to keep it energy efficient. What are you plans for the breezeway? Laundry area? Pantry? You might want it wider than 8' - depends on plans for it.

Tom

 

[holdover]

just did some math, with 3/12inside pitch you will have 11'6" at the peak + or - some and about 10'6" 4' on either side of the peak. If you use a movable 4 post and move it to the center to work on a car you should have enough clrnc, except for vans. I have a Bend pac HD9 that has casters so you can move it, works great.. If you can make the walls 9" all the better for a lift with scissor trusses..

 

[central1ny]

That looks good! I like the layout, might be nice to have a man door in the front left corner of the garage so your buddies don't have to track through your wife's house! Or put a door in the breezway, that's what I did. It's more of a mudroom with closets for all the coats and shoes. I agree with Nighttrain, you don't need rebar, just go with the mesh in the floor. What's the reason for the expansion joint material at the edge of the floor, I didn't use that on my 30x 40, my slab shrank. I like holdover's idea for the scissor trusses, it's not crazy money to go that way but it still might not give you enough height unless you put the lift in the middle of the floor.

I have been thinking about a man door. My only concern with that is security. We live out in the country and the house is turned at a 25 degree angle from the road so any door on the left side of the garage would be very hidden from view. I will reconsider though. I was planning on using an expansion joint material based on other postings that I have read. I believe that using an expansion joint material between edge of slab and wall is a common practice?

 

[central1ny]

I have multiple comments. Your plans shows a 24' wide garage but you say it's going to be 28' wide. If 28', that's ok but I think you would want it wider than 24'. It depends on what you plan to do in it. If you are going to work on your cars, you'll want it at least 28' wide. What's the rear room for? A shed? Also, if you ever want to put in a lift, you might want the floor thicker than 4". But with only an 8' ceiling, that kinda' eliminates a future lift. Put 2" foam under the garage floor in case you ever want to heat it (will minimize heat losses). Also, why not go for a crawlspace? It will be much easier to make changes and take care of future plumbing/electrical work with a crawlspace. You can insulate the crawlspace to keep it energy efficient. What are you plans for the breezeway? Laundry area? Pantry? You might want it wider than 8' - depends on plans for it.

Tom

My bad. The design is for 24' wide, not 28'. To maintain a 25 foot setback requirement from the property line, the design that I have would be the biggest I can go. The ceiling will be at least 10' with current design. How much room is needed for a lift? The breezeway will be an addition to the living room and allow an entry point into the garage. How do I insulate the crawlspace? Would I just go with crushed stone and install plastic over the stone?

 

[holdover]

Measured my lift height today, I have a 4 post and I am 5'10" . The ramp height is 66" for a height that is good for working, actually migh be a few inches too high. My 1967 Mustang is about 54" my 2012 is the same and my wifes ranger 4X4 PU is 68" so I would say you need a min of 140" to factor in some margin of safety on not hitting the ceiling. If you are starting at 120" and use the scissor trusses you will have about 144 across the center 8' span of the garage with 156" at the peak

 

[ForceFed70]

Why the funky detail for the front of the garage instead of a flat wall?

Also, specs say 3x garage doors but I only see 2 in the drawing.

 

[central1ny]

Why the funky detail for the front of the garage instead of a flat wall?

Also, specs say 3x garage doors but I only see 2 in the drawing.

We thought that the bump out gave the wall a little more character than just a flat wall. The third overhead door is located on the back wall. The back part of the garage will be walled off to create a 16x24 shed and workshop

 

[central1ny]

Measured my lift height today, I have a 4 post and I am 5'10" . The ramp height is 66" for a height that is good for working, actually migh be a few inches too high. My 1967 Mustang is about 54" my 2012 is the same and my wifes ranger 4X4 PU is 68" so I would say you need a min of 140" to factor in some margin of safety on not hitting the ceiling. If you are starting at 120" and use the scissor trusses you will have about 144 across the center 8' span of the garage with 156" at the peak

Do you have some pictures of the front of your garage and how the lift is installed?

 

[financer83rs]

I wanted a lift and didn't have the clearance so i added a bay. Here is a picture of the inside of the garage. If you want more pics or have questions let me know.

 

[central1ny]

I wanted a lift and didn't have the clearance so i added a bay. Here is a picture of the inside of the garage. If you want more pics or have questions let me know.

Interesting design. What are the dimensions of the garage and door sizes?