Garage Door Bottom Seal Gap

[krux]

New garage door installed today and now I have a gap. We have tried to adjust the garage door and shoved filler in the bottom seal which did not solve it. I have around a 1/4" exposed that I need to seal. The garage door is squared but the concrete has settled in this spot.

Garage door company is seeing if they can find a bigger seal. Problem is, they are not a 100% sure it will cover this gap but may only lessen it.

I'd hate to do option two, but that would include a threshold and cutting it about 3' and gluing it on the concrete in this spot. The only good news is that I would never drive over it, so it should last for a long time.

Any other ideas?

Attached are the gaps and a threshold.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

You can always cut out that area of the concrete and re-pour it where it’s level with the rest.

 

[BillK]

If it is definitely because the slab has settled then I would get some concrete patching material and build it up level with the rest of that area. Its not that big of an area and should be pretty easy to do. Something similar to this:

Henry 547 25 lbs. Universal Patch and Skimcoat 12158 - The Home Depot

This Henry 547 Universal Patch and Skimcoat is ideally used for concrete, wood and metal flooring as a feather-edge, deep fill or embossing leveler.

www.homedepot.com

Your only other choice is to break it out and repour the apron in that area. I think its too much of a gap for any type of seal to make up the difference.

Just curious, was the gap there with your old door ???

 

[krux]

If it is definitely because the slab has settled then I would get some concrete patching material and build it up level with the rest of that area. Its not that big of an area and should be pretty easy to do. Something similar to this:

Henry 547 25 lbs. Universal Patch and Skimcoat 12158 - The Home Depot

This Henry 547 Universal Patch and Skimcoat is ideally used for concrete, wood and metal flooring as a feather-edge, deep fill or embossing leveler.

www.homedepot.com

Your only other choice is to break it out and repour the apron in that area. I think its too much of a gap for any type of seal to make up the difference.

Just curious, was the gap there with your old door ???

The gap was not there on the previous garage door but it was not leveled either. In fact it came down at such and angle to compensate that it crushed it a little bit.

Also, wouldn't patch look like *** and not match?

 

[Showkey]

Many variations on this theme……….some times new fat seal slid into your existing bottom track.

 

[BillK]

Also, wouldn't patch look like *** and not match?

Dont take this personally but is that really all that important ?? It should be pretty close. If you had a gorgeous epoxy floor it might be different but your is just an old concrete floor just like mine.

 

[krux]

Many variations on this theme……….some times new fat seal slid into your existing bottom track.

That's the seal i have currently.

 

[krux]

Dont take this personally but is that really all that important ?? It should be pretty close. If you had a gorgeous epoxy floor it might be different but your is just an old concrete floor just like mine.

Mice, snow, and rain would be the problem. I get what your saying though.

 

[BillK]

Just want to add that a glued down threshold would probably really look like **** compared to the patch.

 

[BillK]

Mice, snow, and rain would be the problem. I get what your saying though.

If the patch is done properly it would seal just as well as the rest of the door. Probably better than a hacked on threshold

 

[AndyL]

New garage door installed today and now I have a gap. We have tried to adjust the garage door and shoved filler in the bottom seal which did not solve it. I have around a 1/4" exposed that I need to seal. The garage door is squared but the concrete has settled in this spot.

Overall picture? Something's off - bottom roller is higher than it should be, and unless they taper tracks out, looks like left side is low if you follow "typical" install guidelines...

 

[krux]

How would someone blend the patch to look right the old concrete? I just imagine a mismatch looking mess.

 

[krux]

Overall picture? Something's off - bottom roller is higher than it should be, and unless they taper tracks out, looks like left side is low if you follow "typical" install guidelines...

There was two techs here doing the install. The manager and his senior employee with 20 years.

 

[The Cobbler]

Overall picture? Something's off - bottom roller is higher than it should be, and unless they taper tracks out, looks like left side is low if you follow "typical" install guidelines...

I respectfully disagree with this.
how would the bottom roller be any lower than it is? what do you mean by taper tracks out? and how do you think the left side is too low?

 

[AndyL]

There was two techs here doing the install. The manager and his senior employee with 20 years.

I respectfully disagree with this.
how would the bottom roller be any lower than it is? what do you mean by taper tracks out? and how do you think the left side is too low?

it's what my eye sees. with 22 years in garage doors now (started in 2000).

There's 2 ways to install a door; typically plumb/square - in the picture the gap between door panel and track looks to be expanding. Could just be the picture, but if the tracks plumb, means door face itself is off level - aggravating the gap.

"tapering tracks" - running tight spacing at the floor, but push out to 'standard' spacing at the splice, so the tracks lean out on each side. It's an old installers trick, especially in areas where you get frost heaves. Re-centers the door each time it closes so you don't get a callback 6-9 months after you install it because it's riding to one side.

 

[yhprum]

I have the same problem and was thinking of making a fitted pressure treated wood strip to the bottom of the door to fill the uneven gap.

 

[jack stand]

That's the seal i have currently.

Me too and their ****. No spring back and harder than woodpecker lips in the cold.
I did stuff some caulking backer rod inside in an attempt to "blow it back up" from it's normally flattened out uselessness. It was marginally better but as far as I've seen, your pretty much married to what the manufacturer provides as far as the extrusion they provide. Sometimes I miss a wooden door and the ability to cope it to the concrete and fasten your choice of bottom seals.

 

[krux]

Me too and their ****. No spring back and harder than woodpecker lips in the cold.
I did stuff some caulking backer rod inside in an attempt to "blow it back up" from it's normally flattened out uselessness. It was marginally better but as far as I've seen, your pretty much married to what the manufacturer provides as far as the extrusion they provide. Sometimes I miss a wooden door and the ability to cope it to the concrete and fasten your choice of bottom seals.

That's what we did as well. Put backer rod in to expand. Helped a little but not enough. I used a wooden garage door seal on my last aluminum garage door and it worked great.

 

[Showkey]

Me too and their ****. No spring back and harder than woodpecker lips in the cold.
I did stuff some caulking backer rod inside in an attempt to "blow it back u

That‘s why I stated there are many variations on this type of seal especially in quality and function……. they are not all created equal and the install technique is critical. The ones at the BIG BOX store are not the same as the door supply places.

One technique is multiple sections of seal. Each section is sealed and the large gap area is sealed by a fatter seal.

 

[jack stand]

That‘s why I stated there are many variations on this type of seal especially in quality and function……. they are not all created equal and the install technique is critical. The ones at the BIG BOX store are not the same as the door supply places.

One technique is multiple sections of seal. Each section is sealed and the large gap area is sealed by a fatter seal.

You sound like you might be in the trade? My 3 doors were from a commercial contractor supply house. (Wayne Dalton 5150 series) Probably not the fanciest but it's got the similar vinyl in grooves bottom seal that looks just like the one posted a few posts in. My floor is straight and level across all of the openings.
Hopeing that you are in the trade or otherwise know of a better, more "rubberie" or resilient and won't compress flat under the weight of the door (12x14h). Any suggestions would be welcome and so would suggestions for the jamb seals other than the plastic with the little 1" vinyl flap that also is useless around the edges once it's stiff from the cold.

 

[65ranchero]

Many variations on this theme……….some times new fat seal slid into your existing bottom track.

It may not be to your liking, but how about getting the pictured set up and put slotted screw holes in the aluminum retainer and close the door and adjust the retainer as needed.
This is of course if there is a solid area to attach the screws.

 

[Showkey]

It may not be to your liking, but how about getting the pictured set up and put slotted screw holes in the aluminum retainer and close the door and adjust the retainer as needed.
This is of course if there is a solid area to attach the screws.

THat could work…….managing the gap as the track moves down the slots would be a small challenge.
The aftermarket bottom tracks mount to the inside of the door panel are more adjustable than the factory screw or riveted track that mounts to bottom of the door.

Not in the trade but messed around with a dozen or more of these issues …….especially on older worn bottom seals.

 

[infinkc]

I bought this seal for my door that has a small gap on one side. It worked well for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZN297JF/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[cpttuna]

do you have an old piece of floor mat laying around?

 

[D-train]

To build on what 65Ranchero suggests... You will still need a "wedge" to go on the bottom edge of the door and to support the top (and flange) of that new gasket brace. So that being said... It looks like your existing seal is screwed (or maybe riveted) to the bottom of the door. You might as well pull that segment apart and put the wedge in between the door and the existing seal. Save yourself on a new seal.

As for what to make a wedge out of... Steel or aluminum would be overkill. Get some PVC stock and angle cut it on a table saw. If you have a white door, it shouldn't be too noticeable.

If you don't feel comfortable bending the existing seal down as far as it needs to go... Compromise and bend it half way, and then slip some backer rod or pipe insulation into the seal to build that up. I think that was mentioned above.

Think about when you install wood trim (with a side filler) to a perpendicular wall. You don't build up the wall. You run your pencil down the wood trim to trace the profile and contour that to fit. ...same method here.

Good Luck!

 

[BillK]

How would someone blend the patch to look right the old concrete? I just imagine a mismatch looking mess.

It will blend in just fine after a few months. I would much rather have the floor built up than have some type of crazy added on or modified seal.