Garage door ceiling drywall

[Pattycakes]

Hello- I have an existing garage door with the side springs- would like to drywall the ceiling by lifting door, undo springs (maybe 1 side at a time), lower door, undo mounting brackets, slide drywall under, and then reattach. Is there concern about mounting to the truss through drywall because of vibrations when door is opening/closing? I could also just install 1 inch framing material, mount to that, and then have the drywall run right up to that material.
My main question is if the horizontal rails being changed by 1/2- 1 inch total from their current orientation (because of the drywall or 1x board thickness) will cause any issues with the door opening/close it. Is there some leeway with how level those horizontal tracks need to be?
Thank you

 

[pattenp]

Remounting the support brackets on top of dry wall is not a problem. The additional 1/2 lower shouldn't cause an issue. If it does then raise the back ends of the tracks one hole. Use visegrips to hold door up when removing springs.

 

[PoorUB]

Be careful, if you unhook the springs with the door open it will come crashing down. It will take 2-3 guys to lower it safely.

I would consider just opening the door, perhaps block it up with a c-clamp on the track just in case. Prop the end of the track with a 2x4 and remove the screws for the brackets. Then install the sheet rock and mount the brackets again. You could move the track up one hole in the bracket. Do one side at a tme. The tracks don't need to be perfectly level. I prefer to have the tail end up a bit, maybe an inch higher than where it meets the wall. Just screw the track throught the drywall. All the brackets do is hold up the door when it is open. There is not a lot of stress in other directions.

 

[CraigStu]

I think you are looking at doing way too much work. I would nail up another board (1x3?) just in front of the one w/ the angle bracket on it. That will give you a place to attach the drywall to. Now close the door and install drywall.

 

[cmandp]

I would agree with Craig on this. I will say however I've never drywalled around a garage door.

I also wouldn't want drywall to be between the mounting brackets and wood your securing the bracket to (structure). The drywall will just crumble if your tighten the lag bolts too much and I imagine as the bracket slightly moves from opening and closing the door.

You can get your drywall close to the angle lagged to the ceiling joists. I'd think about using the drywall J channel just so you don't have a raw cut edge.

 

[mikedodge]

I also wouldn't want drywall to be between the mounting brackets and wood your securing the bracket to (structure). The drywall will just crumble if your tighten the lag bolts too much and I imagine as the bracket slightly moves from opening and closing the door.

Gsrage door tracks are installed under finished ceiling all the time. It shouldn't be a problem. But one could always put a strip of wood along there to but the drywall against if they're worried.

 

[The Cobbler]

if you're not experienced with garage door cables & springs, I would suggest do not tamper with them. the horizontal tracks can be unfastened at the rear hanger and re installed easily , When I did mine I measured several spots to get them back in the same place . you want them back in the same locations.

edit, I see you have extension springs, not torsion . they may be easier to work with

 

[Firebrick43]

Measure the lag bolt location from both walls. Write it down on the wall where you measured from. After the ceiling is up measure from both walls and put the lag in the exact same spot. Get lags that are longer if engagement is minimal right now. Shorten the vertical struts by the thickness of the drywall.

With the door down you wont have an issue if you unhook the brace/strut/spring. I highly suggest that you convert the door to a torsion spring system.

 

[mepstein]

just unbolt the spring with the garage door up- non tensioned, lower the door to the ground (mine is heavy but still a one person job), do your work, raise door, reattach springs, done.
I’ve replaced garage door springs many times. In their non tensioned state, they are just a piece of metal. I use a 2x4 in the track to keep the door from coming down.

 

[engineer2]

When my house was built in 1992 they installed the garage door and opener first and then drywalled around the ceiling brackets. When I drywalled the walls, I did the same for the track brackets. Not as pretty, but I didn't have to mess with the door.