Garage door centering

[dxg]

Can one of the experts here tell me how to center (side to side) a garage door?

Background: 18x8 Clopay 5 section residential insulated steel garage door, installed roughly 20 years ago. Works fine and had a local company adjust the springs recently. The door is off center, spring adjustment didn't change that. On one side the door is about 0.5in from the edge of the track, on the other side over 1.25in. This is not a huge problem in itself, except I'm trying to replace the flimsy original hinges with 14ga or 11ga hinges. The extra width of the heavier hinges doesn't fit on the close side. The "shoulder" on the roller shaft hits the hinge and doesn't quite fit in the track. I don't know how long the door has been off-center because I didn't notice it until recently.

I measured and both tracks are centered to the door opening and the the tops (horizontal runs of the tracks) are square to the wall of the door. What causes the door to be off-center and how do you center it? Thanks

 

[84944Redline]

I’m guessing this is not at all the correct way to do it, but I was able to slide my door over while in the open position. Just little pushes repeatedly for the little that it was off by. I was in the center below the door on a step ladder.

 

[dxg]

Ok, so you pushed it over and it stayed there? What's to keep it in the new position?

 

[jstroede]

Generally the garage door tracks should be tighter at the bottom and taper away slightly as they go up the wall. This will "funnel" the door into position as it closes.

Center the door in the opening when closed, then set the track to the location of the door.

John

 

[CraigStu]

Generally the garage door tracks should be tighter at the bottom and taper away slightly as they go up the wall. This will "funnel" the door into position as it closes.

Center the door in the opening when closed, then set the track to the location of the door.

John

That may be standard procedure for those in the business but for me that is absolutely brilliant. Thanks for posting so I can file that technique away for the future.

 

[dxg]

With all due respect, that sounds good in theory but doesn't work in practice.

Yes my tracks are very slightly out of plumb "funneling" down and the door is off center.

The rollers, even if they were constrained to running tightly in the track (which they are not, they are quite loose in the track), cannot force the door sideways because the roller shafts are free to slide side to side. The roller shafts would have to bottom out (the shoulder would have to hit the hinge) before they could push the door sideways.

 

[Zeke]

I think you just discovered the way to fix this. Fix the tracks. Sounds like one side is s tiny bit higher at the arc. Do you have a laser?

 

[dxg]

I think you just discovered the way to fix this.

I did? That's news to me, LOL.
Yes I do have a laser and one horizontal track is about half inch higher than the other. Both are dead level over their length. Is this what you mean by "higher at the arc"?

 

[jstroede]

With all due respect, that sounds good in theory but doesn't work in practice.

Yes my tracks are very slightly out of plumb "funneling" down and the door is off center.

The rollers, even if they were constrained to running tightly in the track (which they are not, they are quite loose in the track), cannot force the door sideways because the roller shafts are free to slide side to side. The roller shafts would have to bottom out (the shoulder would have to hit the hinge) before they could push the door sideways.

With all due respect, you should probably hire the job out then.

 

[firebirdparts]

Ok, so you pushed it over and it stayed there? What's to keep it in the new position?

The new hinges will keep it in the new position.

Just to be super duper clear: Open it one inch, and push it sideways, and lower it one inch, and install your new hinges. AFTER you do that, then you can worry about "fixing it", but the truth is, it's pretty much a waste of time. It wasn't bothering you.

P.S. If the bottom hinge releases the cable, you can't replace that one with the door closed. I figure for the rest of them, door closed is the most convenient for you.

 

[Zeke]

I did? That's news to me, LOL.
Yes I do have a laser and one horizontal track is about half inch higher than the other. Both are dead level over their length. Is this what you mean by "higher at the arc"?

With all due respect, you should probably hire the job out then.

Yes, I think so. If one track a half inch higher doesn't flip a switch, it's time for a pro. Dead level means nothing as some tracks go up at an angle. The curved part of the track has to be spot on WRT to the other side.

Unless it is installed in this building:

 

[dxg]

The new hinges will keep it in the new position.

Thank you. Absolutely correct. I wasn't completely following you until I called Clopay and spoke at length with a knowledgeable tech. Finally got the real story of how this works.

To put it simply, all the plumb and level and square stuff is necessary for optimum operation but does NOT keep the door centered. They simply constrain it by recommending a 0.5" gap MAX between the door and track on each side. So if the door tries to go off center the roller shaft bottoms on the hinge body and forces it back toward center. They consider that contact normal operation.

They just don't give the door enough room to go off center. Apparently most installers don't understand that or they give more room so it doesn't bind in case things go out of nominal over time. Mine certainly has more total gap than they recommended.