Garage door detail

[formanbob]

Ok so how did you guys get your garage doors to clear the block?
Anyone have any pics from the inside showing where the track meets the wall/door .

 

[BPJOOP93]

Huh????

 

[formanbob]

This is not my picc, but you can see the BLOCK, you can see where the guy built out the 2x to extend past the BOCK so the the DOOR/TRACK will clear the block.

 

[NUTTSGT]

My garage door track attaches to that 2x you're talking about.

My opening is framed with a 2x8 (maybe 2x10), it's wrapped with coil stock, a 2x4 is attached to the edge of the 2x8, 90° from the way the 2x8 is sitting. The track is attached to that 2x4.

 

[formanbob]

My garage door track attaches to that 2x you're talking about.

My opening is framed with a 2x8 (maybe 2x10), it's wrapped with coil stock, a 2x4 is attached to the edge of the 2x8, 90° from the way the 2x8 is sitting. The track is attached to that 2x4.

I see, thanks

 

[formanbob]

Here is the garage door part I am unsure what to do. The guy at the door sales said cut a chunk of the block out, and someone else said build out the opening.

 

[upndown]

Cut bottom plate, chisel out concrete and your done! Way less time and money.

 

[AndyL]

Yeah, cut it 6" back, grab a diamond blade for your grinder and go to town... thats somewhat odd how they've done that... is that detailed on the plans or is that a goof that they've worked around?

 

[Schtauffer]

Here is the garage door part I am unsure what to do. The guy at the door sales said cut a chunk of the block out, and someone else said build out the opening.

Your options are to either pack the jambs in, or notch the block. It will take about 1.5" beside the door section, more is better.

I would not pack the jambs in; if you notch the block, it looks like the door will be more likely to come down in front of the lip, preventing water from leaking in. If the door is above the lip, you have a much stronger opportunity for water to come under the door. A garage door will not seal unless the concrete naturally sheds rainwater.

 

[formanbob]

Yeah, cut it 6" back, grab a diamond blade for your grinder and go to town... thats somewhat odd how they've done that... is that detailed on the plans or is that a goof that they've worked around?

This was not how it was supposed to be, the mason was a hack.

 

[formanbob]

Thanks guys, looks like I will just make so noise, and hack it out.

 

[Kevin54]

The company that did my doors (and have installed thousands) told me my block had to be notched. I took a hammer and a block chisel, notched them accordingly where he stated they needed to be. They DID NOT have to be notched. The brackets that holds the rails stood out from the wall where they cleared the block. You should be able to add a 2x on the face of your framed jamb. By the time you add that, then the door is set back from the rail with the rollers, you should be fine. I'll see if I can get a pic of mine to post.

 

[Kevin54]

Okay, I got some pics, and looking at my door, I have (2) 2x4's stacked for the rail clearance. Mind you that the notched block didn't have to be notched at all. Also the rails have quite a bit of adjustment to them. If you need any other pics, I can get them.

And don't look at the cobwebs

 

[upndown]

If you start adding lumber to your jambs, you'll need to add to your header and spring pad as well.. then deal with trimming the outside, stops may not cover added material ! Think of something that pissed you off lately.. wack it with a hammer & chisel.....Therapy