I was just inspecting my weather stripping outside and realized my garage door is sitting back too far. When I push on it, it has tons of wiggle and play (enough room to pull it with my hand from the INSIDE). I checked to see if I can adjust the track, but it's attached with rivets that I don't want to mess with. Also, not sure if this is how it's supposed to be, but the vertical track is not straight (see pic): it's about an inch off the wall at the bottom, to about 2+ inches off the wall as it starts to curve. Did the installer screw up? Is there a way to fix this gap? I was thinking Green Hinges and maybe some padding from the inside, but I'm open to any other suggestions...
Garage Door Gap
- Thread starter ryobirob
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CombatNinja
Well-known member
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- Aug 24, 2013
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That is horrible. Green hinges will help but that is a big damn gap. Easily triple the gap I have on mine, which is nothing to write home about, mind you. Many times, an inexperienced installer will leave large gaps for fear of getting something too tight where it binds or makes awful noises. How long ago was this installed? I assume we are outside the reasonable timeframe where you can call him back to fix it?
Last edited:
jstroede
Well-known member
It is probably set a little loose, but not horrible. I'm going to guess this was a replacement door? Was the same weatherstrip reused or replaced? When using riveted track, the adjustment has to be made with the weatherstrip. You don't want it too tight though or it will bind. Things move as they heat and cool, and thus you have weatherstrip with flexible flaps.
As far as the vertical track goes, it should taper away from the wall as it goes up the wall about 1/8" per ft. That's why if you look at the hinges, they are different as they go up the door. This is absolutely correct.
John
As far as the vertical track goes, it should taper away from the wall as it goes up the wall about 1/8" per ft. That's why if you look at the hinges, they are different as they go up the door. This is absolutely correct.
John
We replaced the original doors about 7 years ago. I assume they just bolted on where the last door was...not bothering to chisel away the wood to get closer and more snug. We did replace the weatherstripping but I think I need to move it a little closer--as well as put some on the inside.
racecougar
Well-known member
Chiseling out the frame is not the answer at all. As John said above, the weatherstrip should just be moved in a bit. If your tracks weren't riveted, you'd have adjustability there, but that isn't the case in this situation.
CraigStu
Well-known member
I think it is completely normal. As mentioned, the track moving back as it goes higher is on purpose. This way, rather than the weatherstrip rubbing on the door the whole way up, the door moves away from the weatherstrip and friction drops off pretty quickly. All the garage doors I have ever had, the tracks were adjustable for distance from the framing. Our current house is just 3 years old and I noticed there is no adjustment. You can replace the weatherstrip or you might want to try 'adjusting' it. Usually it is just tacked on w/ finishing nails so If you are careful, you can probably pry it off the framing and re-install it for a tighter fit. If not, HD or L have it usually in a kit and it isn't to expensive. Here it is in individual 7ft strips.
Just to let you know, our garage is very weather tight. And when I open the man door the bit of suction from that moves the garage door. I never looked to see how much it moves but it moves enough that I can hear it 28ft away at the man door in the back wall.
Just to let you know, our garage is very weather tight. And when I open the man door the bit of suction from that moves the garage door. I never looked to see how much it moves but it moves enough that I can hear it 28ft away at the man door in the back wall.
I've chiseled out some of the frame on the O/H doors in my garage. However, they don't go up or down very often. I also have some wedges to keep the door tight. . . not something everyone can do.
nmk_61802
Well-known member
Takes less than 10min to drill out the rivets and replace with a single bolt in the middle to allow adjustment at track level. I have had to do it to all of my replacement doors. Seems manufacturers have switched to the riveted style as it keeps the doors at the max adjustment, assume they have less warranty calls for doors not fitting that way.
rayra
Well-known member
Change the rivets out with bolts. Those standoffs the tracks are riveted to have nice long slots to provide exactly the kind of adjustment range you need and which the installer screwed up.
Replace them one at a time with the door closed. Leave them snug. Once they are all swapped - and the upper horizontal part of the track is also freed to move slightly - you tap the vertical tracks closer to your garage door framing until your weather seals are in contact.
If you do it correctly and the door was set correctly, you might not have to adjust the longer offset wheel brackets at the top of the topmost door panel.
Replace them one at a time with the door closed. Leave them snug. Once they are all swapped - and the upper horizontal part of the track is also freed to move slightly - you tap the vertical tracks closer to your garage door framing until your weather seals are in contact.
If you do it correctly and the door was set correctly, you might not have to adjust the longer offset wheel brackets at the top of the topmost door panel.
I called the original installers--and another door company--and both said this was a correct and normal install. As CraigStu and jstroede suggested, the base of the track is the right distance and tapers away on purpose. Both companies told me that weatherstripping is the fix. I ordered some green hinges, weather stripping, door seals, and will updated you guys once I make these changes. Thanks.
rayra
Well-known member
well you need weather seals regardless. Which should have been included in the original install. Hopefully that will bridge the gap. Rivets may be how THEY do it, but it isn't typical. It's all nuts and bolts in all the houses we looked at in Vegas. Same when we retrofit the door in L.A. before selling there.
/and really, what did you expect the company that did it that way to tell you, 'oh our bad, we'll book some costly-to-us re-work right away'?
I think they've screwed you twice, now.
/and really, what did you expect the company that did it that way to tell you, 'oh our bad, we'll book some costly-to-us re-work right away'?
I think they've screwed you twice, now.
honestly I don't see much wrong. and the track is more gapped at the top so when you open the door the door moves away from the weatherstrip/wall.
no way does he need to drill rivets to make adjustments.if anything move the weatherstrip in a bit tighter
no way does he need to drill rivets to make adjustments.if anything move the weatherstrip in a bit tighter
nmk_61802
Well-known member
Agreed;
I sure Green Hinges and moving the weatherstrip is one way to fix for $100+ depending on the number of hinges
Drilling the rivets out as we suggested would take probably less time than installing the new hinges and costs around $10 in bolts.
But to each their own
cgall
Well-known member
Look closely at your hinges, they are stamped 1,2,3 or 4. They are about 1/8" different from the center of the roller to the wall. You can swap a 3 for a 2 to change the wall gap.
@ nmk_61802: I prefer going with new hinges because I wanted to change out the rollers too.
@ rayra: weather seals were originally supplied (7 years ago) but our painters had replaced them. I'm in Boston, so...rivets might be the norm? Btw, I knew the original installers would claim "It's totally fine". That's why I called a second company, who confirmed, "It's totally fine."
@ cgall: Great to know. Thanks for the tip.
@ rayra: weather seals were originally supplied (7 years ago) but our painters had replaced them. I'm in Boston, so...rivets might be the norm? Btw, I knew the original installers would claim "It's totally fine". That's why I called a second company, who confirmed, "It's totally fine."
@ cgall: Great to know. Thanks for the tip.