Garage Door getting chewed alive, please help!

[3cargarage]

delete or please skip this partial thought, lol...

 

[3cargarage]

Ok, if it's relatively easily lifted - find out why it's not super easy - lube (not wd40) on the rollers. See if it looks like its running level - if it's 20ish lbs to lift it - somethings binding; just gotta work through and see what's stuck. Might need a bit more tension - look up your version of torquemaster add a little bit, test and repeat.

Don't install that aftermarket operator bracket - you're just adding weight and pulling on a section of the door not designed to take strain - the old 9100/9600's had that center operator plate removed for a reason - the new style - that cap you've got - was infinitely more reliable. You'll find lots of old threads b**ching about the old bracket held on by tiny little screws and glue peeling off.

Move the existing operator bracket over 3/8" to find fresh material- there's enough slop in the J arm to accomodate it. Wayne dalton sells a strut that can be used to reinforce the top molded strut - i'd put it on first. Your local dealer will have it in stock. In a pinch you can force non WD 2.25" or 2.5" struts to cap over, but why bother - the proper wayne dalton one is usually 2-3$ more.

Thanks, as I read this I went to use that aftermarket bracket and it's not making any sense. It could of course be my lousy interpretation. The J-arm isn't reaching it anyways nor does it look like it would reasonably reach it even with j-arm adjustment (if that is even a practical thing to do) . I am looking more closely at your post.

I just did a quick mockup with that aftermarket bracket...yes tie wraps I know...just wanted to get a picture up. I know that I would be removing that bracket but did not feel like it as the j-arm would not reach it anyways.

 

[3cargarage]

Ok, if it's relatively easily lifted - find out why it's not super easy - lube (not wd40) on the rollers. See if it looks like its running level - if it's 20ish lbs to lift it - somethings binding; just gotta work through and see what's stuck. Might need a bit more tension - look up your version of torquemaster add a little bit, test and repeat.

Don't install that aftermarket operator bracket - you're just adding weight and pulling on a section of the door not designed to take strain - the old 9100/9600's had that center operator plate removed for a reason - the new style - that cap you've got - was infinitely more reliable. You'll find lots of old threads b**ching about the old bracket held on by tiny little screws and glue peeling off.

Move the existing operator bracket over 3/8" to find fresh material- there's enough slop in the J arm to accomodate it. Wayne dalton sells a strut that can be used to reinforce the top molded strut - i'd put it on first. Your local dealer will have it in stock. In a pinch you can force non WD 2.25" or 2.5" struts to cap over, but why bother - the proper wayne dalton one is usually 2-3$ more.

Ok, AndyL, what do you mean by "cap"? The raised ridge that would go under the strut once I get one? Also, what center operator plate do you mean? What is the operator bracket? That thing hanging from the J-Arm?

Do I need to go to a WD dealer to get their strut or should some local place have it? I guess I have to know the exact width of the door? If I can get the reinforcing strut online I am game to do that too.

Top "molded" strut...how interesting!?

You mean to tell me that these doors just happen to be natively lifted by the top strut?

Sorry for all of the questions but this is eye opening.

Thank you.

Look at this link...looks just like my door...and it is starting to fail in the same area....Wonder if it is my door...hmm, lol.

What is the Wayne Dalton Torquemaster springs system?

Wayne Dalton Torquemaster spring system is a system that was developed in an attempt to improve on the torsion spring system. Torquemaster systems use a spring

veterangaragedoor.com

 

[AndyL]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.wayne-dalton.com/Documents/5120-5145-9100-9600-Trolley-Arm-Attachment-Operator-Bracket-325001.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi4pejVwNv3AhVVMn0KHflAC7MQFnoECAsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0l_bXVkjKaKf4dUtJEQ0Ir

And shows the optional strut install over the molded rib.

They used to have a more traditional bracket - but that was removed because

It didn't take much of a incorrect opener adjustment to kill it. Try to force it to close farther to seal a gap - and you could tear it off.

Yes there's another version that does takes in between top and bottom molded ribs - but disadvantage being - in case of a major load - you damage those molded ribs.

 

[3cargarage]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.wayne-dalton.com/Documents/5120-5145-9100-9600-Trolley-Arm-Attachment-Operator-Bracket-325001.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi4pejVwNv3AhVVMn0KHflAC7MQFnoECAsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0l_bXVkjKaKf4dUtJEQ0Ir

And shows the optional strut install over the molded rib.

They used to have a more traditional bracket - but that was removed because

It didn't take much of a incorrect opener adjustment to kill it. Try to force it to close farther to seal a gap - and you could tear it off.

Yes there's another version that does takes in between top and bottom molded ribs - but disadvantage being - in case of a major load - you damage those molded ribs.

Ahhh like this one....

Thanks, I think this is definitely enough to point me in the right direction!

 

[3cargarage]

Good Morning, the WD authorized dealer needs to know what model number I have to proceed. Any idea on how to obtain this information?

Thanks.

 

[racecougar]

Good Morning, the WD authorized dealer needs to know what model number I have to proceed. Any idea on how to obtain this information?

Thanks.

It's typically on a sticker on the side of the door. Surprised that the dealer didn't provide that info.

 

[3cargarage]

It's typically on a sticker on the side of the door. Surprised that the dealer didn't provide that info.

Thanks. I see nothing on either side. I called WD to verify that this is a 9100. Anyone know of the asking price for one of these? Everything is expensive here in "Bartertown".

 

[racecougar]

Google Search

www.google.com

 

[racecougar]

Something else that I'll note is that I've never seen anyone install the J-arm in that orientation before.

 

[firebirdparts]

Same. It's upside down. the purpose of the J is to reach under the door when it's open. It doesn't make that much difference when you are choked up ultra-short (as you are). If you lengthened that bracket, and if you connected it to the door somewhere else (like we all do) you'd soon see that it's necessary to turn it around.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Thanks. I see nothing on either side. I called WD to verify that this is a 9100. Anyone know of the asking price for one of these? Everything is expensive here in "Bartertown".

That's the information I posted earlier. W-D puts that information on the torsion tube not the door.

I paid about $195 for a W-D bottom replacement panel, non-white in color. I think our doors are 9100 as well.

If you want windows in your door, now is the time to change.

When you order, just make sure you know the height of the panel. Im not sure if it's just the bottom panel that has different heights but I would just have that information on hand.

 

[AndyL]

It's a 9100 - "composite" (aka cardboard) back face - pretty well identifies it.

Because of install requirements - that's typically how J arms will be installed on these doors when using a liftmaster opener. Every Wayne Dalton dealer I know did it that way.

 

[3cargarage]

Google Search

www.google.com

Yeah, I did that but not much info. Went to the local dealer and doubt that I got a genuine part. Oh well, was $27 and the guy was very familiar with these doors.

 

[3cargarage]

It's a 9100 - "composite" (aka cardboard) back face - pretty well identifies it.

Because of install requirements - that's typically how J arms will be installed on these doors when using a liftmaster opener. Every Wayne Dalton dealer I know did it that way.

So it was installed correctly for my purposes?

 

[racecougar]

Yeah, I did that but not much info. Went to the local dealer and doubt that I got a genuine part. Oh well, was $27 and the guy was very familiar with these doors.

I thought you were looking for the price of a WD 9100 door by your question.

 

[3cargarage]

What happened to the guy who posted late last night saying that the garage door is a gonner. If am tracking NUTTSGT is kind of implying the same.

 

[3cargarage]

I thought you were looking for the price of a WD 9100 door by your question.

No, was looking for the price of the U-Bar....a.k.a strut.

 

[racecougar]

It's a 9100 - "composite" (aka cardboard) back face - pretty well identifies it.

Because of install requirements - that's typically how J arms will be installed on these doors when using a liftmaster opener. Every Wayne Dalton dealer I know did it that way.

I assume the "why" is pursuit of lowest cost option possible, but why not lower the pickup point on the door and follow a more traditional approach?

 

[3cargarage]

I assume the "why" is pursuit of lowest cost option possible, but why not lower the pickup point on the door and follow a more traditional approach?

...because cost like you said? Meh, I am just a newb but someone will chime in soon.

 

[AndyL]

I assume the "why" is pursuit of lowest cost option possible, but why not lower the pickup point on the door and follow a more traditional approach?

Middle of door panel is the newer idea - old trolley operators often ran a straight arm to the top rail of the door. But then we wanted double car doors, and engineered windloads etc - and the strut got in the way and...

 

[3cargarage]

I just wanted to say thanks so much for everyone's time over the course of this. I affixed the u-bar (ended up being a j-bar) to the molded strut. I attached the bracket to it. I spoke with the guy at the garage shop too. Like some of the posts here, he mentioned adjustment. He told me to perform the cable adjustment by turning counter-clockwise one click at a time and then observing. I just picked an arbitrary number of 3 clicks and when I did I noticed that the door now rests at exactly the halfway point like you guys mentioned it should. I also observed that the cable was actually left sitting in adjustment mode before my time. That could not have been good for performance.

So far so good. Once again, I appreciate all of the help here. There is no way that I could have gotten this far without you.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Price....I thought you were referring to a new panel.

AndyL gives great advice on these doors, he has helped me previously when I had W-D issues. Between his advice, putting in 5 of these doors (DIYer) switching from I-drive openers to Genie side mount openers, I have gained a fair amount of knowledge on these damn things... spring replacement and conversion from torsion tube to standard spring included.