Garage door height adjustment

[dennis3553]

Is there a was to adjust the door height a a CHI over head door. The door height is too high for my finish concrete height and will have a 1 inch gap when closed.
The door had a torsion spring a cable. Are they adjustable or do i have to lower the entire door ?

 

[Moosefire]

Most garage door openers have adjustments available in the opener. Just read the manual or google the model number, it will tell you how to lower the door

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[dennis3553]

no opener is installed.

 

[matt_i]

What is making it stop? That *all* of the cable is unwound from the drums and so its basically hanging from the cables?

In that case one solution is to make or buy new cables. Alternatively, the spring-driveshaft could be moved closer to the ground when all of the tension is removed but that will probably require reconfiguring attachment to the framing and possibly the way it attaches to the top track curve.

If the tension is causing it to counterbalance 1" above the concrete, then potentially some "loosening' of the springs might work, even 1/8 to 1/4 turn of unwind may take care of it to get 1" of travel. Be very careful if self-adjusting the springs and make sure you have the proper diameter winding bars.

 

[dennis3553]

Im not sure what makes it stop it just stops before the concrete, Plenty of cable left, I cant see anything holding it up. I thought the maybe put a stop in to hold it up before the floor went in but i dont see anything.

 

[jstroede]

So there is no floor in there currently? If not, yes they will generally install stops to simulate the finished floor height.

That is one example, but I have also seen installers just fit something in the track so that the roller can't go down any farther.

Pictures would help explain a lot. At any rate, yes the doors can surely be adjusted to take up that gap.

John

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

If this is a new installation and a new floor pour, it is likely there was a lack of communication between the two trades. Often the door goes in first, and is set at the marked grade. Seldom does the concrete make it to the same mark. Depending on the gap, you may have to have the entire assembly lowered. The vertical track is angled as it goes down so it pushes the door into the jamb making a tight seal. If the track has adjustable side flags, you may be able to loosen them enough to go down. BUT be aware that the bottom section rollers don't pop out of the gap between the floor and track. They are under a lot of pressure. Also may have to adjust top roller brackets on top section. A lot of work caused by bad assumptions.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

Like above, If the finishes jambs and weatherstripping are installed if possible the door is being wedged against the wall from the angle of the tracks. Any door installer can drill out the factory rivets in the tracks and install track bolts instead.

There should be plenty of play to get an extra inch that way.

Otherwise if it’s not cable length, there has to be something in the track under the bottom rollers holding it up.

Or an opener adjustment but you said none is installed

My bet is on option one, even without weatherstripping it could still get stuck