Garage Door Install Advice

[leeport]

I need to install a Garage door into an existing wall. The wall is 8' tall, double top plates, and studs 16" apart. The shop is 20' x 28' and the opening for the door is on the 20' part. The garage door will be 10' wide x 7' tall. Overhead Door is going to install the door. I have to cut the opening and trim it out first.

My question is, how do I, Safely, take the studs out that I need, and install the header for the opening.

thanks!
Jeff

 

[Milton Shaw]

Is it a load bearing wall with the rafters sitting on it or is the end wall, and what is the outside material.

 

[leeport]

It's the end wall. Outside material is lap siding. Siding is coming off when I cut the opening.

 

[Gary S]

Since it is the end wall, just pull out the studs and install the header. Don't delay and wait a few days. Get it done right away.
A few years ago, I pulled out 16' of end wall on my Son's garage to install a door. It originally had a 9' door. We tore out the 9' door and header, two windows on either side of the narrow door, and the studs that were in the way of the wider door. then we put in a wider header for the 16' door and rebuilt the wall to the new door. Nothing sagged the day we did it.

Unless your building is made of bamboo or carbboard, you can do it too.

 

[leeport]

Thanks, Gary. I dont need to brace the top plates when I remove the studs? You're saying because its an end wall, it will hold up fine.

Yeah I wont wait once I take the studs out. I'll have my header all cut and ready to install. I was scared once I cut the studs out, the thing might sag on me and I'd have to use a floor jack to raise it up or keep it up.

 

[Gary S]

If you are in doubt, stuff a temporary stud or two under things to support it while you work. If you have trusses in the roof, it shouldn't need any help during the work.

 

[CNGsaves]

Sounds like you're making a "drive-thru" garage . . . . right ??? This new door on the opppsite end of where you already have a larger door ??

Post up some PICS and you'll get best advice. How about a PIC of the other garage door that's already in there. Good luck.

 

[Dale Leeds]

I'd have the header made up and ready to put in before I even started cutting out the opening. The wall studs will be 3 1/2" thick. So you need to get two- 12 foot- 2X8s or 2X10s and nail them together for a header. (2X8s will probably be OK.) Cut them down to 10 1/2 feet long. They will only be 3" thick so you need to nail a 1/2" piece of plywood between them to make them the same thickness as your wall studs (when the header is up on end). The opening from end stud to end stud should be 10' 6" wide. Then nail two studs together (for each side of the door) and nail/screw two of them to the wall studs on each side of the opening to set the header on. This will make your opening 10' wide. Set the header up on end- on top of the two studs on each side of the door. (You'll probably need someone on each end. And a third guy in the middle would be nice.) You'll have to figure out how short to cut the studs above the door opening. They should be cut off to 1 1/2" above where the top of your header will be. Nail a 2X4 (which is the 1 1/2" thick) along the bottom of them before you try to slide the header in. Toenail it to each end of the door opening. The header should go in there as tight as possible. You might have to hammer it in. Don't let it fall on you. Then after the door is put in, when you trim up the door, it will cover the gap around the edges and the top of the door. You can use 3/4" trim. Anymore- I use screws on everything. But most people will still use nails. (I'd even have the holes drilled out at the end of the header, so the nails would go right in, before I put it up.) And that is OK.

 

[leeport]

wow Dale, you gave me a step by step. I appreciate your time in writing all this. And at 1:57 am? Thanks man, I appreciate your time!

Jeff

 

[Dale Leeds]

I just hope I figured it right.

Some people might nail the studs over the header directly onto the header without using a cut down 12 foot- 2X4 underneath. And that is probably OK. But it should be tight in order to keep the wall from sagging. They should be tight enough that you have to hammer them in place.