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garage door insulation

32roadster

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okla
I've been considering insulating my garage doors with the insulation panels that can be bought at Home Depot.
Any experience?
Do they REALLY help?

Will they be heavy enough to cause issues with the garage door opener down the road ?
 
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xSoFx

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Nov 30, 2013
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Insulation of any form will help. I'm sure something that is 2" thick is going to be considerably better than very thin gauge steel
 
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32roadster

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That's true, and I accept that. I guess I'm just curious if it's really worth the expense. .....Is there a significant difference in the heat being kept in or out.
 

Krodad

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Mar 25, 2006
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Iowa
It certainly helps, but garage doors by design have a lot of thermal bridges. The first priority would be to make it as airtight as possible and practical. Add weatherstrip if you don't have any, replace the bottom seal if it's getting torn up, adjust the door/downforce, etc. to make sure it's seated up as tight as it will allow.

If you are heating just incidentally for a few hours at a time, insulation won't make a drastic difference. If you are heating continuously, then it is worth the trouble for sure.
 

pdl2mtl90

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Glenpool, OK
The garage of our new house faces the West and in Oklahoma can get hot during the summer. My wife had my doors insulated for me for Father's Day and I am completely happy.
 
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32roadster

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okla
ok cool.
Thanks guys. I guess I'll get this done. It's just maybe $200 to buy the material, but if it really helps....like right now when it 20 degrees...lol
I'm in !
 

67carl

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California
What kind of door is it? Reason I ask is I've got a 1950's, one piece swing up. Just wondering if you've got one of those new fangled modern ones in sections? I'm going to put insulation in mine (it's framed with 2x4's laying on their side), cover it with Luan then paint it white. Shouldn't add much weight... If you've got a sectional door it might be a little harder.
 

astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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Mid_Michigan
P2000
Check out the website:
www.p2000insulation.ca
They are out of Canada and this stuff WORKS!
I insulated the inside of my shop door in 2007 with the 3/8ths inch white/reflective board. Here is a pic.
MVC038F-vi.jpg

The thing here is that the P2000 3/8th inch foam is rated at an R14! Dow foam or R-techs Insulfoam are rated at only 2 or 3 R per 1/2 inch... The Dow 2" pink board is rated at only an R 10... And the prices are comparable! The 3/8th foam was installed in one piece over the whole door. I even covered the windows and hinges... Even after years of openings and closeings the foam has yet to take a set or crack or split at the hinge points... It is doing the job also. I have taken numerous readings with my digital thermometer before and after the install and can report a dramatic difference in door temps. Before, the outside of the door was the same temp as the inside walls of the shop. After, the outside of the door is the same temp as the outside walls... I was impressed and it DID make a difference when working or standing next to the door. It is much warmer in that area with the insulation in place. This IS worth looking into guys. The insulation works and you get much more insulation "value" for your dollar.
Mark
 

BHR4CE1

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Long Beach, CA
I used an insulated door when I did my most recent remodel. Made a HUGE difference in how long the AC has to run in the summer.
 

astroracer

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Exactly where did that p2000 number come from. I am raising the bs flag on that one.

John

I did provide the website where all of the info is available. You may want to check that out before calling BS... I went to a few seminars a few years ago and almost became a distributor for this stuff. It does work, as I can attest too.
Mark
 

jstroede

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Kansas City
I did browse the website. All I saw was standard EPS foam with a backer on each side. Upon further digging once I got on my PC, I found where the 14 number came from. It is from a very specific "simulation" under "extreme" conditions. Upon looking at the results of the other tests(real ASTM tests with MUCH lower results), it is very obvious that this insulating material is severely biased toward the high temperature side. These "extreme" test conditions are not real world unless you want to use this to insulate your oven, and even then may actually exceed the melting point of the EPS foam.


John
 
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AndyL

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Never mind it buries all your hinges making the door unserviceable.

I rip these systems on woodies and old uninsulated doors all the time. They do little if anything other than to make it difficult to replace it.

About the only improvement might be on U value - but I guarrantee they do basically nothing for R value.
 

astroracer

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Buries all the hinges? So what? Unserviceable? Really? The whole panel comes off with a few screws... I haven't had to "service" anything on the door since I put this stuff on in '07. Is that really an issue? It keeps the cold out and it does insulate the door so what is the problem here? Arguing for the sake of arguing? Okay maybe the tests are biased to the "extreme" but who really cares if the stuff works? And it does work. My infrared thermometer tells me so. You guys come back with some real world numbers to poo-poo mine and then we'll have something to talk about...
 

jstroede

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Ok...well in some of their other "literature" I found this:

NOMINAL R-VALUES

Thickness 1/4 3/8 1/2 5/8 1 1 1/2 2 3
P2000 1.1 1.6 2.2 2.7 4.3 6.5 8.6 12.9

Hopefully that formatted ok. Those numbers are quite similar to the standard values of EPS foam (surprise surprise).

It says those numbers were a result of testing to ASTM C1363 as well as calculations for different thicknesses based on those results.

R values should come with a full shaker of salt, not just a grain.

John

PS by the way, shoving a giant sheet of the stuff over the whole door is pretty hokey. The biggest benefit it gives is helping against air infiltration since I'm guessing this is an old ship-lap wood door. If you are happy with it, I guess that's what matters though.
 

GTO

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I did provide the website where all of the info is available. You may want to check that out before calling BS... I went to a few seminars a few years ago and almost became a distributor for this stuff. It does work, as I can attest too.
Mark

Yes,we all know there is no BS on the interweb,right ?:shocking:
 

astroracer

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Yes, the door is an old 6 panel door with Masonite panels. There was no way to install separate panels in a non-hokey way... I did it the best way I saw fit. I am really sorry if it is not up the "Guru's" standards...
Jesus, just trying to give somebody another option and all I get is a shitstorm of hate. Thanks a lot guys, you really made my day.
And yes, there is a LOT of ******** on the internet...
Happy Holidays to all of you!
Mark
 

ilovevocs

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Toledo, Ohio
Yes, the door is an old 6 panel door with Masonite panels. There was no way to install separate panels in a non-hokey way... I did it the best way I saw fit. I am really sorry if it is not up the "Guru's" standards...

Jesus, just trying to give somebody another option and all I get is a shitstorm of hate. Thanks a lot guys, you really made my day.

And yes, there is a LOT of ******** on the internet...

Happy Holidays to all of you!

Mark


I think it's a matter of perspective. Some individuals are so immersed in their own beliefs that can't understand or respect why someone would do something that challenges their paradigm. Your fix was appropriate for your needs, and I for one enjoyed reading and viewing your post. It's so simple to be subjective of someone else's work when your hiding behind a keyboard.


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astroracer

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I wasn't going to reply to anything further posted in this thread but both of you make good conversion points. Not just bashing a guys knowledge and experience. I see no reason to do that to anybody...
I try to NOT hide behind my keyboard. I try to type like I was standing, looking the other poster right in the eyes... There is so much knowledge and "new" experiences" on these boards that I TRY to keep an open mind about everything I read. If there is something I know is wrong I will point it out but everyone has different perspectives on so many things.
Use my experience in this thread as an example. This piece of insulation has been on this door for almost 7 years now. I stated that in my first post. After 7 years and MANY tests with an infrared thermometer guys are telling me my numbers are B.S. and the insulation doesn't work? My numbers say it does. And very well to boot.
To address Scotty's concern about added weight, there is none. Again, this has been on there for 7 years and the door works just fine. This sheet of insulation probably weighs less then a pound. Very insignificant and the door doesn't even know it's there.
Thanks for posting, both of you. I hope the other guys can gain some insight into how their posts are taken and there is really no reason to bash and bicker about something that does not really matter... All it does it hurt feelings and make for un-needed drama...
Mark
 
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jstroede

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You could cover it with a blanket and get about the same effect.

I called BS on your R value claim. While any insulation is better than no insulation, it is nowhere near the value you stated, especially at cold temps. I just wanted to make sure that others were aware of that. If it works for you, thats fine.

John
 

ARCTIC_RAGTOP

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Apr 26, 2013
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Yellowknife, NWT
I bought 2" thick foam sheets (they come in 4x8's) and cut them to the right size to fit onto each panel, but not over the hinges, to allow the door to fold as it goes up or down. My door was easy to do because there were ridges at the top and bottom of each panel, so these just fit right into those. I'm happy with it and I don't know how much it helps in terms of heat saved, but it definitely does help. Also, put up new weatherstripping all the way around both doors from the inside while the door was open. Just used regular 'B' shaped rubber adhesive backed stripping available from Canadian Tire or Home Depot type store.
dyvube5y.jpg



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Alexbn921

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Aug 22, 2013
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East Bay Nor Cal
If you add weight you will need to balance the door. I only added 4-7lbs. 2 tubes of polyseamseal and 3 rolls of bubble wrap. This is a very high R value and seals the door. It is also serviceable if you need too.
If you use foam it is much heavier, less efficient and more money.
Garage door with radiant barrier bubble insulation. (must be done with an air gap!)


Super light and easy. The afternoon sun hits the door and it was 130+ on an average day. This made the garage unbearably hot. Afterwards it much cooler and quitter too.
 
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astroracer

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You could cover it with a blanket and get about the same effect.
John

Yes sir, I think you are right! I am going to go out there and RIP that useless foam insulation off that door and cover it with an old blanket! We ALL know that old blankets have an R value of al least 20. Right? Maybe a big sheet of butchers paper would be better? What's the R value of that ? 30?
A blanket? Really?
Come on John, just let it go... It doesn't matter what the R value is, it works great for what it is. It's easy to install (or remove if the need arises...) and it DOES do the job. It is mid-teens outside right now. Do you want me to go get some temps to show how affective this stuff is? I did give results in my initial post, I'll do it again if anyone wants numbers.
Mark
 

Jaguar Fan

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Mar 13, 2008
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Location
Park City for Ski Season; Las Vegas for Poker Seas
I've been considering insulating my garage doors with the insulation panels that can be bought at Home Depot.
Any experience?
Do they REALLY help?

Will they be heavy enough to cause issues with the garage door opener down the road ?

During the afternoon heat in Las Vegas, my west-facing garage doors, with insulation, result in about 10 degree cooler garage compared to before I put in the Home Depot insulation.
 
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