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Garage Door Insulation

mrspeed

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Joined
Apr 19, 2017
Messages
473
I apologize if this has been posted before, but I couldn't find much clear and direct information. I want to insulate my garage doors because it seems like the lowest hanging fruit as a next step in keeping my garage comfortable year round, especially keeping it warm in the Winter.

I have a 3 car garage that faces East. In the summer, it doesn't usually get above the 90s (°F) and the garage doesn't usually get all that hot. In the Winter though, it's regularly in the 20-40s outside.

The garage is finished with drywall on all walls and ceiling, but I don't think the walls are insulated, and I know the attic above the garage isn't insulated either. I have a gas powered furnace, which can heat the whole garage from 40° to 60° in maybe 20-30 minutes, but I shudder to think of all the energy I'm probably losing, especially through the uninsulated garage doors. Also, the floors are painted concrete, so there's another place heat is getting lost.

The question I have is, what kind of insulation should I use? The three options seem to be styrofoam board, fiberglass insulation or reflective roll insulation.

From what I gather, foam board is the cheapest option with the smallest R value and lowest insulation capabilities. Between fiberglass and reflective roll, it seems like the reflective roll is best for insulation against radiant heat outside from the sun in the Summer, while the fiberglass may be better for keeping the heat inside in the Winter. Is this true? I've kind of pieced this together from various product reviews and forums, but I've not been able to find any definitive comparison that says when each option would be the best choice.

The R values for all of these options seem small compared to what goes in your walls and attic. Is that a result of the system they're working within, being an open frame steel door instead of a closed wall, or is the insulation for garage doors just worse?

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Hot Rod Grampa

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Jul 7, 2017
Messages
812
Location
Near Cooperstown New York
You are going to gain a little, but not a lot. Fiberglass is not ideal as the door may get condensation on the inside of the steel, soak the insulation and turn it to junk. Styrene sheets, or boards, is best. The celotex with reflective foil is also good since it is light. Make sure your perimeter seals are good, as air blowing through open cracks will affect comfort more than a cold door.
 

fourbyford

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Joined
Aug 3, 2017
Messages
913
Location
North Idaho... almost Canada!
I'm just completing the same project. I'm using the Dow (blue) ridgid foam... 1.5" thick with an r value of 7.5. While less than the insulation in the walls, the insulation in the doors makes a night and day difference, both summer and winter. I'm using the Dow board because it cuts and handles much easier than the Owen's Corning (pink) board that I've used on other projects. I have to order the Dow board because nobody in my area stocks it but my local HD can get it in a couple of days (no shipping charge) and its actually a bit less expensive than the O/C. I recently installed a couple of Clopay insulated doors on another of my buildings... they're r18... and want to put them on this shop as well... as soon as budget permits. Meanwhile, I'll be comfortable in my garage this winter!
...D
 

fourbyford

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Aug 3, 2017
Messages
913
Location
North Idaho... almost Canada!
As far as the difference in insulation...
My Clopay doors are rated at r18... several factors combine to help create this efficiency. First, I'm sure the foam (which is injected between the inner and outer skins and cures in place to eliminate any air infiltration) has a better thermal efficiency than the ridgid board... secondly, the door sections seal together very well and, the doors have a thermal break between the inner and outer skins. They're great doors but, $$$$.$$.
Installing the ridgid board in an inexpensive single sided door will never be the ultimate efficiency... but, it is still a HUGE improvement over having no insulation at all!
...D
 
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OccupantRJ

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May 15, 2009
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11,190
Location
Eastern North Carolina
...my install20190803_144413.jpeg20190803_144426.jpeg

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Do you do any grinding and welding in your shop, and if so, are you concerned about possibly igniting the foam board? This is the holdup on insulating my door. I am thinking about insulating the door, then skin the inside with white aluminum trim coil, then upping the spring tension or buying higher capacity springs.
 

fourbyford

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Joined
Aug 3, 2017
Messages
913
Location
North Idaho... almost Canada!
I am concerned! I was thinking about the aluminum skin as well. With just the insulation, I had to tighten my springs 3/4 turn... doors work fine now. Adding ANY more weight (in my case) will require new springs.
I'm hoping I can "make do" with these doors for a couple years... at that point, I'll go with the 2 sided insulated doors.
So far, I've done my welding and grinding outdoors... if there's something I HAVE to get done this winter, I'll find some sort of "shielding" to keep the sparks off the doors, AND, I'll have fire extinguishers there as well.
I also have an open bay where I keep my tractor. I can always move the tractor and make sparks in there.
FWIW, I used the white (open cell) foam as a base while cutting the steel siding I installed on my big barn. Carbide blade cutting 26ga with a circ saw... shooting sparks directly into the foam. Much meltage... no smoke or fire. YMMV
...D
 

rayra

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Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
4,724
Location
Escaped from Los Angeles
I used rigid foam with adhered mylar facing on my tilt-up door. The foam thickness was just a bit more than the I-beam trusses the door frame was made off, which allowed me to cut the foam slightly larger than each section and wedge it in place. It's been working great, radiant heat in the summer seems much less. Coupled with the R19 I put in the flat roof trusses, my garage is averaging 20F cooler in the peak summer months.
I've got ventilations screens, a goodly gap around the tilt-up door, an uninsulated slab, so I haven't bothered to chase the winter temps. Other than covering up the vents in the south wall.

if you can fit it without crushing it, I'd suggest some of that air gap bubble wrap mylar material against the interior skin of your door, before adding a rigid foam product. That should have a good big with overall insulation properties.
 
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